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Elevation: 6,270 ft
GPS: 35.8164, -106.1912
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Mark Mathis on Jul 18, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

The Playground is a 60 foot south-facing basalt cliff. Numerous moderate to difficult crack and face climbs ascend the cliff. Routes at this area are not bolted (by agreement), so be sure to bring your gear to lead. While route bolts are strictly verboten, anchor bolts are allowed. However, the last anchor bolts to be installed (over Beginner's Hand Jam) were chopped and few currently exist, so many climbs require trad gear to establish anchors.

Climbs are numbered from left to right with numbers as in 'Jemez Rock' and as shown in the beta photos.

Getting There Suggest change

To get to the Playground from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover blvd. After about 100 yards, take a left on Meadow lane. Follow this street (it will slowly curve south) passing the turnoff for the Overlook, and continue to 719 Meadow Lane. Park near by, being careful not to block mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. From here, turn right and walk toward the rim of the canyon. Follow the rim for 300 yards and locate an approach gully with a 30 foot basalt tower on it's left side. At the bottom of this gully is the Playground.

Routes with Fixed Anchors

Suggest change

A handful of routes at The Playground have two bolt anchors. If you're heading to the Playground with limited gear and/or static line for anchors, here's a list of the routes with bolt anchors (left to right):

* Unrelenting Nines - Two bolt anchor on big ledge about 12 feet below the rim. Accessible from the top. Long slings helpful.

* Flying A - Two bolt anchor (brown painted glue-in bolts) on downhill side of large boulder on big ledge about 12 feet below the rim. Accessible from the top. It is also possible to climb right at the top of Texas and use this anchor without any trouble. 

* Tree Climb / Mr. Foster's Lead - Two bolt anchor on big ledge about 8 feet below the rim. Accessible from top. Anchor is near small, dead tree. Quickdraws adequate.

* Black Wall - Two bolt anchor on big ledge about 6 feet below the rim. Accessible from top. Long slings helpful.

* Cactus Climb - Two bolt anchor a few inches below the rim. Accessible from top. Quickdraws adequate. It is also standard to use this anchor for Beginner's Hand Jam. A 0.5 camalot works great as a directional piece between the top of Beginner's Hand Jam and this anchor. 

* Upper Left Roof - Two bolt anchor over the edge of the big ledge that's about 10 feet below the rim. Accessible from top via easy downclimb. Quickdraws adequate.

* Flakey Nine - Two bolt anchor on the big ledge about 12 feet below the rim. Accessible from the top via short downclimb. Long slings or static rope helpful.

46 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Playground

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Texas
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 59
Beginner's Hand Jam
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Upper Left Roof
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 14
Mr. Foster's Lead
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
Flakey Nine
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Cactus Climb
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 7
T2 Flake
Trad, TR
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 25
Blow Hole
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Burnt Crack
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Flying A
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Fingertip Layback
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 28
Unrelenting Nines
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 4
Route 20
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 4
Flying A Buttress
Trad, TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
 4
The Playgrounder
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Texas
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Beginner's Hand Jam
 59
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Upper Left Roof
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Mr. Foster's Lead
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Flakey Nine
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Cactus Climb
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
T2 Flake
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR
Blow Hole
 25
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Burnt Crack
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Flying A
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Fingertip Layback
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Unrelenting Nines
 28
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, TR
Route 20
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad, TR
Flying A Buttress
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
The Playgrounder
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in The Playground »

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