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alpine rack

Original Post
Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

i know many posts have been up about racks of gear for areas but, i plan on going with basically 10 cams from basically a 00 bd c3 through a 3 or a 4 bd c4 with a set of micro stoppers to doubles of medium stoppers for my aplpince endeavors for pro. I want to be lite but still equiped to the point that if i bite or more than i can chew can still figure out a way to the summit.

Ice4life · · US · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 330

That seams like a lot of cams and nuts for your light alpine rack... Remember if your going alpine style climbing youll probably want some other things with you. Of course time of year and the climb will dictate this, but this is what I carry on me for the high peaks in the winter.

On mine I have: (and this changes depending on the climb)

Cams
-blue alien
-green alien
-yellow alien
-grey alien
-.75 bd
-#1 BD
-#2 BD

Stoppers
-1 full set of BD

Screws
-4 - 6 screws

Pitons
-3 pins, knifeblade (short, long) and 1 lost arrow
-1 specter hook

Draws (all alpine style)
-8 mammut contact slings with cypher myduse biners
-1 screamer

cordellete
-1 long red contact sling made by mammut.

GiGi plate or reverso 3

Bail Beaner (old locker)
-knife
-tiblock
-prusik cord

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

+1 for too much gear , remember your partner should have gear so you should adjust the amount of gear between each person this allows you to have more gear w/o one person having to hump the whole lot.

Also all my alpine climbing is done with twin ropes now just for the same reason I stated above ( you can split the weight between 2 people)this gives me a full 70m rapell w/o having to carry a stupid heavy rope or a tag line.

I suggest you grab everything you plan on takeing this should include food , bivy gear,
Ect ect , load it up in your favorite pack than take a hike up some trail for a couple miles after this you'll know what you should take.

Cheers

Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

The usual RMNP Scottish Climbing Rack -

1 set of cams from purple TCU to 3 inches

1 #11 hex

1 or 2 Spectres (for turf)

1 set of nuts (that you don't mind pick-setting and hammering)

some blades / arrows

The #11 Hex and Spectre always seem to get used.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

I was going to post but Kevin pretty much matches my list except I don't own, but should buy, a Spectre. As pitches are usually long and wandering in the alpine I like a bunch of tripled skinny slings and 2 doubles and one 4x instead of a cordalette.

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

I asked pretty much the exact same question a while back, here's that thread

Erik W · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 280

Kevin listed the standard kit for around here. Check Eli's site as well ( mixed rack). I'm a big fan of hexes and usually bring 2, sometimes 3. A hammered-in hex is without rival the most confidence inspiring piece of gear you'll ever lead above.

Now I have to admit, when I read "alpine rack" in the title, I immediately thought alpine mixed... which several of us here did as well. But maybe you mean an alpine rock rack (as in 'pure rock' in preps for the summer season). I'm thinking that might be the case since you didn't list a single screw or pin on your OP. If that's the case, well then the rack spans the spectrum from skeleton rack, as in Wehling's previous thread, to your standard rock rack if you'll be climbing at your limit.

Tyler Wick · · Bishop, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 200

I read it as pure rock. I never carry pins on the alpine rock rack because I have no way of hammering them..

1 set of cams to 3", 1 set of stoppers, 10 alpine draws, cordalette, tibloc, prusik cord, a couple smc rap rings, and enough cord/webbing to rap every pitch.

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20
Kevin Landolt wrote:The #11 Hex and Spectre always seem to get used.
Kevin, is your #11 Hex roughly the size of a #4 C4? I have a #9 which is about a #2 C4 and have thought about buying the 3 sizes smaller, but never bigger. You really think its a good investment?
Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

ya i meant alpine rock and i would defenatly have a few extendable trad draws and over the shoulders plus some webbing i just want to be equiped enough with out being to heavy on gear.

Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

The #11 Hex (Black Diamond) is comparable in size to a well cammed #4 C4, but you can hammer it into flares and snowy cracks. And it's lighter than packing a #4 Cam. I don't know what it is about that thing, but it always seems to get used on just about every other winter pitch I climb in RMNP.

Ice4life · · US · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 330
martinharris wrote:ya i meant alpine rock and i would defenatly have a few extendable trad draws and over the shoulders plus some webbing i just want to be equiped enough with out being to heavy on gear.
ohhhhh. So you mean rock climbing with a long approach? Got it.
Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

Since you mention 'making it to the summit' I think we assume alpine...
I like to take about three hexes (slung not wired) instead of the big cams. Light and cheap and work as slings, too. I don't feel too bad bout bailing with a hex either. Big bros seem lighter and more versatile than big cams, too.
Nobody has mentioned tricams--the small ones are light and bomber;they get heavy in the middle sizes and the huge ones are light (relative a big ass cam) but expensive and gigantic. Lotsa nuts are far lighter than a few cams and allow cheap anchors. Shoulder length slings are way more versatile than QDs, double or twin ropes are great for splitting for the approach and full-length raps

Do your concious a favor and leave the hammer at home unless you're FAing 5.11x + , and then only take one hammer and leave the pins in for the rest of us. And Lost Arrows are heavy...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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