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BOULDER CLIMBING ADVICE-- I NEED HELP

Original Post
Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,560

Hey friends,
I'm gonna be in Boulder this week visiting family, and I'd like to take them all climbing. I'm looking for easy climbs, like 5.4-5.8. I need something that is easily top-ropeable with a walk off. None of my group is very experienced except for me so I don't have anyone to belay me on lead. They also need to be close to the Boulder area. Like less than a half hour drive. Does such a thing exist? Thanks in advance for any help.
Cheers!
Kia

matt.l.b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 25

Happy Hour, The Riviera, and The Boulderado are all good areas in Boulder Canyon. If they are really new take them to the The Boulderado.

Peter Stokes · · Them Thar Hills · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 150

The Boulderado wall is good for that range, and the bolted anchors there are good. You can hike around to the top and rap the routes if you don't want to lead... just bear in mind that this wall is right next to a fairly major road, and any rockfall could seriously injure or kill someone driving by. It's a nice south facing wall, though, with afternoon sun.

Mike Pharris · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 125

Happy Hour would be better, a little more of a hike, but a much better base area for people to sit around and wait their turn. Boulderado has a big enuff ledge, but its directly above the highway lane and road noise kinda kills the experience.

David Sweet · · Silver City, NM · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 430

The base of the Boulderado overhangs the road and it is about 25 feet up - not a good place for kids to hang out. Nip and Tuck has the range of grades and access you want with far fewer crowd control issues.

Julius Beres · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 364

I agree with most of the suggestions. Nip Tuck seems like a winner to me, since it is very close to the road, but still has some trees between, so it isn't as loud as Boulderado, and it has a nice, flat base. There is an easy walk up in the gully between Finger Crack and Surprising Slab.

Things to keep in mind:
1. Boulderado is right on the road, with the base on a ledge. If you are hiking around to set up TRs and it is your first time, you might want to rap off a tree just to see where the bolted anchors are, since they are over the ledge and people have gotten hurt trying to set up TRs before.
2. Happy Hour is a nice beginner place for TRs, but tends to be crowded on nice weekend days. You will need LOTS of webbing/cord if you want to set up TRs from the trees above, since they are set back a way (I would say 25-50 ft for different routes, or you will need trad gear to set up anchors closer). If it is your first trip, expect to spend some time just trying to figure out the location to set up your TRs from above.
3. Someone suggested the Riviera... maybe I am wrong, but that doesn't strike me as an easy place to set up TRs without leading. Lots of easy lines there, but the easiest way to get to the anchors is to lead (I suppose you could rap to them from upper bihedral, but that sounds annoying).

I'm not a huge fan, but North Table Mountain is about a half hour from Boulder, has easy walk to the top access for tons of 40 foot climbs in the sun.

I would say Nip and Tuck or Boulderado are your best bets for easy, close, mellow TRing.

Jonny Greenlee · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 280

I've taken beginners up Boulder Canyon a few times. Nip and Tuck has two easy to set up/easy to climb top ropes. Both have chains at the top, so bring some draws. The base area is fine for kids and stuff to hang out.
If you want to get someone started leading and to have a bit more variety, try the Across from the Biherdral/Cascades Crag. It has a lot of easy (and over bolted) routes that I've found good for a new leader. The route farthest to the right around the corner is like 5.5, well bolted, and has minimal exposure.

Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,062
pat vernon wrote:http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/105744659
Closed for Raptors
John Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 30

+1 for Nip and Tuck. One minute approach, and chains at the top of Hare Balls and Dan-D-Line easily accessible by the gully to the west of these two walls. But get there early, especially on a weekend.

mountainproject.com/v/color…

Patrick Vernon · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 965

"closed for raptors"

good point, didn't realize.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Peter Stokes wrote:The Boulderado wall is good for that range, and the bolted anchors there are good. You can hike around to the top and rap the routes if you don't want to lead... just bear in mind that this wall is right next to a fairly major road, and any rockfall could seriously injure or kill someone driving by. It's a nice south facing wall, though, with afternoon sun.
Driving by?? Shoot how bout the people on route or at the base? I've had a few idiots kick rocks down on me. Noooo bueno!
Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643
eric larson · · aurora, co · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 50

if you want to make the bit longer drive to clear creek canyon, I believe Cat slab is open now.. might wanna check the mtn project page to be certain, but it had routes 5.4-10.. just another option

Andrew Sharpe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 25
eric larson wrote: I believe Cat slab is open now..
Anyone know if this is true? I'll be out towards the canal this weekend, but the slab would be more fun. I may have to drive out there and check it for myself.
Mike Pharris · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 125

Cat Slab has been purchased by JeffCo Open Space, but i'm not sure as to it's "open" status. They had said they were going to do something with respect to parking or some such.

Maybe check the JeffCo web site for more / accurate info.

Found this, but it doesn't really speak to the open/closed status:

clearcreeklandconservancy.o…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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