Mountain Project Logo

Learn to Bolt

Original Post
Will Copeland · · Driggs · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 25

Is there a company that teaches bolting a climb? I'd like to learn and have lots of friends who want to learn also but don't know anyone that knows how.

happy climbing, will

Tparis · · Pottersville,New York · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 270

Nobody actually places bolts. There is a bolt fairy who does it. Here is what you do, When you see a possible line, take a good hard look at it, envision all of the moves in your mind (maybe even clean it up and try it on top-rope). Then that night dream about the route. Go out the next day and it should be fully equipped. If not, try harder the next night.

ps-it only works if you believe

Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

site search "bolting clinic"

In general, bolting know how is passed on from experienced developer to mentee. Try to find a local route developer.

It is my personal opinion that there should not be classes to teach these sorts of things because it would lead to overzealous bolting. It's one of those things that, when you are ready to be bolting, the opportunity will present itself.

Devin Krevetski · · Northfield, VT · Joined May 2008 · Points: 140
Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote:site search "bolting clinic" In general, bolting know how is passed on from experienced developer to mentee. Try to find a local route developer. It is my personal opinion that there should not be classes to teach these sorts of things because it would lead to overzealous bolting. It's one of those things that, when you are ready to be bolting, the opportunity will present itself.
If you need to ask, you probably shouldn't be doing it.

dev
Jay Karst · · Golden · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 65

The physical act of placing a bolt is about 10% of the knowledge required to developing a route. Am I the only one who sees the parallelhere between bolting and teen sex?! If you cant stop them @ least Educate them!

Eddie Brown · · Tempe, Arizona · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 940
devkrev wrote: If you need to ask, you probably shouldn't be doing it. dev
+1
SKI Ski · · Portlandia, OR · Joined May 2010 · Points: 15
Eddie Brown wrote: +1
Eventually, everyone has had to ask. Don't pretend to be high and mighty here in a computer forum.
1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Contact the locals that are putting in bolts. Or, fly me out there and I will teach you. Put in 1000s and never had a failure. Many of them have been heavily tested. As people have said, putting in bolts is a small part of the route setting equation. If you really want to bolt new routes or replace old 1/4 inch bolts, contact the folks doing it in your area. You will learn a ton and you will have fewer prople bashing you here.

Todd Gordon · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 10,796

Drill a hole, slam a bolt in the hole;...it's not rocket science.....now WHERE on the rock to put the holes/bolts and not piss off the local rock police.....now THAT is a different story....

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

The NZ Alpine club has bolting clinics.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Will Butler wrote:just wing it
And by your 400th bolt, you may have the thought, "Hey, should I use a torque wrench, or just tighten these suckers down as tight as my weak little arms can?"
Eddie Brown · · Tempe, Arizona · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 940
alpine affinity wrote: Eventually, everyone has had to ask. Don't pretend to be high and mighty here in a computer forum.
It's not a matter of being high and mighty. If you have been climbing long enough to have the experience needed to place a route, you should know where to find the proper guidance for bolting.
Ralph Kolva · · Pine, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 210
Daryl Allan · · Sierra Vista, AZ · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 1,040

C'mon fellas.. at least he's asking first.

John Ross · · Wasatch Front, UT · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,580
John Richardson · · Greenfield, Ma · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 60

how about wether or not you should be bolting a climb in the first place... if the route can go on gear, you shouldn't be bolting it at all.

Olaf Mitchell · · Paia, Maui, Hi, · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 4,190

Will,Like so many have pointed the mechanics of installing bolts is pretty easy (10%) but the other issues in route development=(80%)
You guys might think about finding the guy that's replacing the old suspect bolts in your area and offer your assistance as an apprentice. There is a lot of valuable knowledge to be gained from a close up examination of bolt protection placements on existing routes. I was contacted by a guy doing just that a while back and believe me I was stoked that he wanted to replace those old 1/4x 1 3/4" That I put in on lead so many years back.He also pointed out that one of those routes was a very good line but it was so run out that no one would do it.
He pointed out that with a couple more well thought out bolt placements it would be a popular classic.

I thought about that route and remember how I had to climb further than I was comfortable with before I got to a tiny stance that I could stop and hand drill a hole in the granite and place a bolt. It occurred to me that any one following that line will never know exactly what was going through my mind as I tap,tap,tapped that hole and the feeling of relief I achieved when I was deep enough to put a wired stopper over the drill bit to provide security if only a tiny amount. Then when that bolt was placed, moving away from it's safety into the unknown to do the same process again.

I agreed that if he wished to enhance that line he had my blessing.He sent me a detailed account of the process.

You would be doing the general climbing community a service.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
Price wrote: And by your 400th bolt, you may have the thought, "Hey, should I use a torque wrench, or just tighten these suckers down as tight as my weak little arms can?"
So... what's the answer?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
Post a Reply to "Learn to Bolt"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started