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Climbs near the coast?

Original Post
kendall wallace · · durham, nh · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

So, my friend and I are planning a bicycle trip down the west coast. We will be on bikes with limited gear. So, where should we stop and climb? We want to do a lot of climbing and dont really have an agenda. We are both new england boys with no real knowledge of west coast climbs so we need help. We are willing to go a few days trip (50-150 miles) away from the coast for great climbing if need be. We want to sport, tree top rope and boulder. We wont be carrying much gear because of weight so trad is not really an option. We have a rough draft including the big national parks and such, but what hidden gems are worth discovering?

Brian Prince · · reno · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 2,727
mountainproject.com/v/calif…

Highway 1 runs right through San Luis Obispo, and the "Bishop Peak" climbing area is a 10 minute bike ride from the highway. No National Park by any means, but a days worth or so of decent climbing could be had. Cool area. Lots of single pitch sport and toprope options (with bolted anchors, and by walking to the top). A little bit of cool bouldering.

And you can bring a crashpad to boulder with but no rack to climb with? ;)

Have fun man. I'm sure it'll be an awesome adventure.
kendall wallace · · durham, nh · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

thanks! we have a improvised bouldering pad plan which involves sewing a big sleeve and then stuffing all of our soft stuff in it (sleeping bags and pads, pine boughs, clothing) which wont give us the same protection but will be better than nothing. And I know, i wish we had space for a rack!

But thanks, that looks great and is just what we are looking for. If you're in the area look for two dirty guys on bicycles next fall, it may be us

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

As a SLO local, I'm going to have to second visiting Bishop Peak in San Luis Obispo. Easily a few days of sport and TR climbing can be had on some fun rock right off of Highway 1. Send me a PM if you want any more information or someone to show you around when you are here.

GabeTorres · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 0

I think it sounds like an amazing trip. You sound like a true visionary sir. I wish you good luck, gods speed, and much sending!!! Give it some corn bitches!!
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splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18

you'll have tons to climb on the north coast, esp. bouldering. search on this forum for lost rocks, moonstone beach, navarro beach, salt point, fort ross, goat rock/sunset rocks, mickey's beach.

some top ropes at karen's rock, dry crag, sunset rocks.

bump this post or pm me as you get closer to your trip. maybe I can rally the local pad people for a couple trips on the sonoma/marin coast when you come through.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

As mentioned, Salt Point is pretty cool. It is a marine sanctuary, so lots of seals, sea otters, and other cool marine life abound. I recommend visiting the Treasure Chest area while there, it has a very raw, ocean side feel to it. Sport climbing/bouldering:
mountainproject.com/v/calif…

Never been, but Goat Rock SB has bouldering/toprope stuff: mountainproject.com/v/calif…

Mickey's Beach has sport climbing/bouldering. Also, you can openly tan in your thong line if you're into naturalism: mountainproject.com/v/calif…

Mt. Tamalpais hasn't been mentioned and the climbing isn't the best. Not terrible or anything, just so so. The bike ride up there is absolutely stellar, however. Although, you may have enough hill climbing on your hands already. Great road biking country up there with gorgeous views. Close to Muir Woods, Mickey's Beach, and, of course, the Bay Area in general: mountainproject.com/v/calif…

That's the coastal climbing I know about in Northern California anyway. Have fun, and good luck!

C Runyan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 300

It's not clear how far south you are going, but if you are heading past Santa Barbara that means you will climb 3,000 feet up the coastal range here. When you reach the top of the San Marcos Pass, you might as well stop for some quality bouldering at Lizard's Mouth and the Brickyard. Then ride along Camino Cielo over to set a toprope up on the classic T-Crack at Gibraltar Rock.

Round the day off with a ride down to East Beach for some beach volleyball and cheap beer.

Keep riding south for Point Mugu bouldering, Malibu, Point Dume toproping off the beach, etc.

Have fun. By the way, north to south is the way to ride, given the prevailing winds.

Caleb Padgett · · Rockville, utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 85

Patricks Point state park between arcata and the oregon border has a few nice topropes to do. Its close to the highway and just a little north of lost rocks bouldering area and moonstone beach which are both closer to acrata. You would like the lost rocks coast bouldering area because you dont need a crashpad for many of the problems, nice sand landings.

Rick Shull · · Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 3,015

Don't miss Lost Rocks if you are into bouldering. It is just south of the mouth of the Klamath River. It is actually quite a bit north of Patrick's Point, which does have some great TRs and one sport lead. The bouldering at Houda Pt and Moonstone are also good. Karen Rock at Moonstone has some good TRs which are usually all strung up during dry weather. The locals are friendly and are usually willing to share ropes with those passing through. Footsteps rock, which is north of Lost Rocks has some sport routes that are almost right on the water. The trail has been recently been cleared, so access should be nice for the season. All of these areas are here on MP under Redwood Coast.

kendall wallace · · durham, nh · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

we will be starting way up in washington state and heading south. I am guessing we will be in the N. California area sometime around mid or late october. The plan is to go all the way to Mexico, or until we run out of money. Thanks to everyone for the info.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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