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BrianH Pedaler
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Apr 12, 2011
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Santa Fe NM
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 50
Cheating denotes winners and losers. Just be honest about it.
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Sergio P
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Apr 12, 2011
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Idaho Springs, CO
· Joined Oct 2004
· Points: 185
Just ask your sponsors if they care. If you have no sponsor then the only person you climb for is yourself. Style is for the bar stool.
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Wally
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Apr 12, 2011
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Denver
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 0
Adam - hopefully the OP cares - and will go back for redemption with a clean send. Climb ohn. Wally
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erik wellborn
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Apr 12, 2011
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manitou springs
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 355
Not cheating until you have a girlfriend- and maybe not even then.
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Joseph Stover
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Apr 12, 2011
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Batesville, AR
· Joined Dec 2005
· Points: 690
How about the first tug? It probably alleviates a tiny bit of bodyweight for a split second... but it also takes away some arm strength, so it's probably a zero-sum game.
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Scott T
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Apr 12, 2011
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Alpine Meadows, CA
· Joined Jun 2010
· Points: 20
Funny post! Been there, done that...always feel guilty after, especially if you have to own up to someone else:) Have done it more on sport routes, which I feel less guilty about...but the most recent still bugs me: on Crest Jewel last summer...I was a bit too gripped, maybe it was a bit too windy, a bit too slippery...a bit too tired...
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Pepe
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Apr 12, 2011
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Raleigh, North Carolina
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 25
Mike Lane wrote:Then, you give it that second tug. You know what I mean. The one where you kind of grip the sling just a little too long, use it to calm down and take a breath. Lying is the only true cheat in climbing but combine honesty with style and you'll earn a good deal of respect.
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Ben Walburn
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Apr 13, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 680
If you allow yourself to tug on gear a little bit now, you'll keep doing it more and more in the future. Then it will just be the normal bailout tactic that you "always use". Your friends and partners will start giving you shit about your "climbing style" and they will more than likely start insulting you in French. What happens when there is no gear to tug on?? You won't have developed that "GERRR" mentality when you need it, the very mind set that will save your ass when you are run out and shitting power bars. In short if you start pulling on gear you might as well start smoking crack. It will ruin your life!
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Rick Blair
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Apr 13, 2011
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Denver
· Joined Oct 2007
· Points: 266
Ask the Huber brothers about their speed ascent of El Cap.
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Mike Lane
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Apr 13, 2011
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AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
Ben- the OP was a smartass continuation of the "Is stick-clipping the first bolt cheating?". I was mocking some of the opinions there.
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Marc Squiddo
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Apr 13, 2011
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Mountain View, CA
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 15
Aid is aid- its cheating. That's not to say I haven't done it but only that when I have I've not claimed a "clean" ascent.
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Ben Walburn
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Apr 13, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 680
I figured, my response is tongue and cheek. B
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Jeff Bryan
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Apr 13, 2011
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Cortez, co
· Joined Apr 2015
· Points: 525
yes but its better then falling sometimes
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Mike Lane
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Apr 14, 2011
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AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
To clarify, everyone knows what grabbing the sling means. I'm talking about the act of tug-testing your placement just a little too much and yet gladly accepting being bestowed an 'onsight', as these nooby trad kids just love getting all anal about unwritten rules
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Olaf Mitchell
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Apr 14, 2011
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Paia, Maui, Hi,
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 4,190
In your heart you know the truth! If you really believe you sent it then you did!
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willeslinger
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May 28, 2011
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Golden, Colorado
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 25
There's a guy at a gear shop where I work who will go an entire route A0, I mean taking on a piece of gear, clipping in with a Metolius Personal Anchor System, and putting gear in higher and bumping up. This is fine, it's what he does, except that, if he finishes a route that way and doesn't wuss out and lower off, he'll call it an onsight. I mean, I don't really care about how he climbs, it's recreation, the annoying thing is that I can't have a conversation with him and know what he means without asking for clarification. We've both got totally different vocabularies for climbing.
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willeslinger
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May 28, 2011
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Golden, Colorado
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 25
Olaf Mitchell wrote:In your heart you know the truth! If you really believe you sent it then you did! That's some new age hippy shit right there, for sure. (disclaimer: I am a hippie, sarcasm in full force here)
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