Is yanking on yer gear cheating?

You know what I mean. You're sketched. Its right in the middle of the section that gives that route its 5.9 rating. You first grabbed the wrong piece, then fumbled even more getting the one you want. The fist lock is fading. Starting to Elvis. Finally the piece is set, and you give it the tug. Then, you give it that second tug. You know what I mean. The one where you kind of grip the sling just a little too long, use it to calm down and take a breath. When you bring your mentor on up to the belay, he grants you the onsight of a route that has seen 8,756 prior ascents. And you fail to mention that tug. Did you really get that onsight? Did You!?!

If the "tug" was a part of the final anchor and there was no more climbing left....I'd say it's an onsight. If it was in the middle, no.

Is yanking on yer gear cheating?

Yep

Mike Lane wrote:You know what I mean. You're sketched. Its right in the middle of the section that gives that route its 5.9 rating. You first grabbed the wrong piece, then fumbled even more getting the one you want. The fist lock is fading. Starting to Elvis. Finally the piece is set, and you give it the tug. Then, you give it that second tug. You know what I mean. The one where you kind of grip the sling just a little too long, use it to calm down and take a breath. When you bring your mentor on up to the belay, he grants you the onsight of a route that has seen 8,756 prior ascents. And you fail to mention that tug. Did you really get that onsight? Did You!?!

Nope.

Is yanking on yer gear cheating?

nah...my wife is ok with it... ;)

not cheating, its "fraid" climbing. (free/aid climbing)
:)

on the other hand, if you chipped the 9 into an 8....

Depends. Did you put your harness & helmet on in the parking lot and walk to the crag with hexes clanking around for all the tourists to admire?

Yanking on gear isn't cheating, it's Aiding! If you yank it isn't a free ascent! Yanking while free climbing just means you are too scared to take the fall. We have all done it but it is not an onsight if you use something other than the rock to climb.

Monomaniac wrote:Depends. Did you put your harness & helmet on in the parking lot and walk to the crag with hexes clanking around for al the tourists to admire?

now what if they were tricams? (sp?)

is there such a thing as an onsight aid climb? if so then you onsighted it

Darren Mabe wrote: now what if they were tricams? (sp?)

Depends on the size. If we're talking #7 Tricams, that's even better.

rename the route

Yeah, but who cares? Call it 5.8 A1.

Yes, you onsighted it using "French free climbing".

"Yanking on gear isn't cheating, it's Aiding! If you yank it isn't a free ascent!"

Exactly...

kwyatt wrote:Is yanking on yer gear cheating? nah...my wife is ok with it... ;)

+1

Not cheating, as long as you don't stick clip it.

youtube.com/watch?v=vn_PSJs…

Darren Mabe wrote:not cheating, its "fraid" climbing. (free/aid climbing) :) on the other hand, if you chipped the 9 into an 8....

^^like

If you yank on somebody else's gear, it could be cheating. Otherwise, it is just A0.

Mike Lane wrote: Then, you give it that second tug. You know what I mean. The one where you kind of grip the sling just a little too long, use it to calm down and take a breath.!

Thats a noob tactic. All true tradmasters understand the usefulness of the rope stand.

1) Clip the rope into the piece above your head.
2) Position the rope optimally beneath you.
3) Slowly stand onto the rope, leaning back a bit as you go.
4) Voila, no hands rest.

bad form, but who really cares?