training plan

Was wondering how this looks.

Monday: Climb 20-30 minutes easy climbing on auto belay. Then work various routes up to current onsight level. finish with some core work

Tuesday: rest or light run and maybe some pushups or pullups

Wednesday: 20-30 minutes warm up on autobelay. Run laps on various bouler probs. (when doing laps on boulder probs do you not come off the wall at all or come off find new prob and get right back on?)

Thursday: Rest or light run

Friday: Work on routes at or just below onsight level.

Saturday and Sunday: Outdoor climbing or rest days.

How does this look is this to much not enough I dont want to overtrain, but want to get the best use of my time also. What kinda stuff do you put in your training log if you keep one also.

Thanks

This is not a plan. This is a vague idea of something you might develop into a plan.

A plan specifies enough detail that you can track and measure intensity, volume, performance, time/reps/weight, etc. A plan allows you to gradually demand more and more of your body as it adapts, so as to continue to elicit a training response and further adaptations.

What does: "Then work various routes up to current onsight level. finish with some core work " actually mean? How many is "some"? What is "various"? What does "work routes" mean?

How about: "Run laps on various bouler probs. (when doing laps on boulder probs do you not come off the wall at all or come off find new prob and get right back on?"

How many laps? For how much time? How many total moves? At what intensity level?

Beyond the lack of detail, all the climbing is essentially endurance to anaerobic endurance. This is a good way to gain some fitness for a month or so, then plateau and/or run into repetitive use injuries. There should be some periods each year where you train strength, some where you train power, etc.

would a 4-3-2-1 cycle be better? Also would a plan with how many reps and how many laps etc be better, certain drills etc that kinda thing?

Alright would something like this be better

Monday: Warm up for 20 minutes on Auto belay. Then do A pyramid sceme up to current onsight level, being sure to include climbs that use different techniques. Overhanging climb, crack climb, vertical climb ETC Do at least ten different routes while trying to downclimb routes to help with endurance. Keeping track of number of climbs and grades so that each week i can try to increase onsight level.

Tuesday: Rest or light run

Wednesday: Warm up on auto belay. Pick 4 different boulder problems under v4 level and try each one four times. Resting after the fourth try before going on to the next problem. keeping aech problem under 8 moves. Keep track in log as to if problems were flashed what areas gave me problems etc so that i can figure out what areas need to be worked on what areas i'm better at. Finish with some pullups trying to add a rep each week to the count( I have a goal to be able to do 20).

Thursday: Rest or light run

Friday: Rest or pullup and core workout.

Saturday and sunday: outdoor climbing days.

I'm open to any suggestions of things to add remove etc.

Antagonist, my man, antagonist.

What is your goal?

Drop the pull-ups and climb more. Work on technique.

I like your pyramid approach, keep track of the number of routes, difficulty, and your thoughts on your climbing performance on each route. Use your warmup time to really focus on climbing with perfect technique, also use this time to focus on utilizing drop knees and flagging. I also think you should have a pyramid for your bouldering that ends with a problem slightly harder than your hardest send. You might want to also mix up your "Monday" every so often with climbing that focuses on routes that take you 2-3 tries. Be sure to listen to your body when you need rest and skip a climbing day if you feel trashed. Oh and ditch the pull ups.

I would have to say my main goal is to get stronger, use less energy on climbs and to hopefuly onsight a 11 at devils lake. Might be a little amitious with the 11. Currently climbing 10a on a good day at the lake.

mike526 wrote:I would have to say my main goal is to get stronger, use less energy on climbs and to hopefuly onsight a 11 at devils lake. Might be a little amitious with the 11. Currently climbing 10a on a good day at the lake.

Having climbed at the Lake a bunch, I can tell you that good footwork and technique will go a long way, and will help more than whatever strength you would gain in the gym. That said, I think that working on on general fitness is not a bad thing, and it might transfer slightly to your performance on rock. And I think your training plan will work general fitness really well.

But again, 5.11's at the Lake require a basic level of strength (which I would bet you already have), and a much higher level of body control and technique. The best way to train for 5.11's at the Lake, in my opinion, is to climb at the Lake as much as possible. I see you live in Schaumburg, which might be a detriment to making it to the Lake multiple times/week. So, I think your focus on laps in your training plan is a good idea. You build technique by climbing mileage, mileage, mileage.

Good luck!

mike526 wrote:I would have to say my main goal is to get stronger, use less energy on climbs and to hopefuly onsight a 11 at devils lake. Might be a little amitious with the 11. Currently climbing 10a on a good day at the lake.

Don't sell yourself short. If you said that you were 75 and were currently climbing .10a and wanted to become solid .11 it may be a stretch.

First thing to climbing 5.11 is mileage and also believing that you should be. If you don't think that you should be, you won't. If you believe that you should be but still don't put in the mileage, you probably won't. Doing a significant amount of laps on a variety of routes is a good way to develop technique (more laps you do, if you concentrate on form, the cleaner the form should become) and endurance.

Looking at your goals I would recommend that you focus on your climbing weaknesses (for example these might be reading cruxes, managing energy/resting efficiently, open hand grips, etc.) along with technique and you will be able to achieve significant improvements without the proposed physical training plan.

As stated earlier by Jay, climbing at the Lake will go a long way to becoming a better climber at the Lake if you are already at 10a. Also approach climbing as training itself and not as a performance contest each time you are out; this way your technique will improve as opposed to simply getting up the climb. Try moves different ways, focus on optimal footwork and grips, etc. There are usually multiple ways to do cruxes and only one way will be to optimal for you. Take the time to work it out and find an understanding belayer.

I really like climbing :)

"Getting stronger" is everyones goal.

If you are climbing 10a, then progressing to 11a will have just as much to do w/ technique as anything else.

Buy the SCC and 9 out of 10 climbers, read all of the existing training info on line, and give it a try for 10 weeks. Then you'll know what you like, what works, and you can make your own changes.

Everyone ends up creating their own personal plan, but to learn the basics there aren't much better tools than the two books I mentioned. Just the movement exercises alone will add a few letter grades in a short time.

Ryan- What is SCC?

SCC = the Self Coached Climber
amazon.com/Self-Coached-Cli…