Easy multipitch climbs

There was a post like this only a little while ago but wasn't quite was I was looking for.

I'm looking for some good 5.5-5.7 multipitch, preferably 3 pitches at least, with not a strenuous approach like a couple approaches at Lumpy. Preferably within 2 hours from Fort Collins. Also I made the mistake of beginning a climb that was supposed to be closed, so please don't recommend any of those. I still feel like a jackass. I'm trying to take a new trad leader up and i'm only familiar with Lumpy, so suggestions along those guidelines would be greatly appreciated

Not the flatirons? Could do far worse than direct east face (5.6) on the 1st and it's only 15-20 minutes to the base.

Eleven Mile canyon has some good easy trad lines.
Fun canyon with a lot around that level and a bit harder.

A little further is the Nose on Monitor Rock like 5.4 or 5.5
with a 5.8+ optional bolted first pitch. Or you can walk onto the easy stuff.
Good luck.

Chris Plesko wrote:Not the flatirons? Could do far worse than direct east face (5.6) on the 1st and it's only 15-20 minutes to the base.

The flatirons were an option until I heard from a local that the flatirons were very difficult to protect. I think the exact words were "you might as well be free soloing". Is there any truth in that?

Yes and no. A lot depends on which route you do but it is all slab and there are very few fixed pieces so yes it's going to be more runout than "normal". However it is also about as opposite from pumpy as you can get. It certainly takes a stronger head than fingers.

I've taken quite a few people up the direct on the 1st flatiron. I've only had one person ever fall at all and they were seconding in gloves through the slot pitch and had never climbed before that day. Some people will be freaked to lead the first pitch but you can always do that job if needed.

Anyway climbing the direct on the first flatiron with a rope is much better than soloing but you will have to deal with runouts. The climbing is primarily all easy though and good anchors can be found using a variety of techniques. If you're a 10a leader, you should have no problem "assigning" pitches to a new leader just by looking up at what they're up against.

Evan Sanders wrote: The flatirons were an option until I heard from a local that the flatirons were very difficult to protect. I think the exact words were "you might as well be free soloing". Is there any truth in that?

That is some serious hyperbole. A lot of routes usually have some run out, usually the protection is there where you need it. It also depends on where you go. Some routes can be totally sewn up, others cannot. The matron is well protected but I don't know about bird closures right now. The east face north route on Seal Rock. Aechean pronouncement, it has a long run out where the climbing is like 5.2. Search the database here, most descriptions will tell you if its run out or not. Some routes here and there even have splitters.

Just checking back, the Matron and Achean are both closed now, Seal Rock is good to go.

In Eldo, Rewritten is my favorite moderate multi-pitch climb. Both the hand traverse and Rebuffat's Arete put you in spectacular position, Pro is straight forward. Read the comments on the route for details. P1 of Great Zot is a good alternate start, though the roof is 8+, it's easy to protect and you can climb around it if you're stymied.

Agree with the Rewritten suggestion. There is also Bastille crack although both would be heady for a "new" leader. Confidence on lots of SINGLE pitch 5.7s would be good preparation. Other quality 5.6 routes at Eldo for a new leader are Calypso, Icarus, and Swanson Arete.

Have you considered using the Best Routes for You route finding feature of MP? For example, Vedauwoo is close to Ft Fun and Edwards Crack is stellar, but only 2 pitches. The route finder for Vedauwoo yields 3 other routes in your criteria, but none that I have climbed.

Joe Varela wrote:Agree with the Rewritten suggestion. There is also Bastille crack although both would be heady for a "new" leader. Confidence on lots of SINGLE pitch 5.7s would be good preparation. Other quality 5.6 routes at Eldo for a new leader are Calypso, Icarus, and Swanson Arete. Have you considered using the Best Routes for You route finding feature of MP? For example, Vedauwoo is close to Ft Fun and Edwards Crack is stellar, but only 2 pitches. The route finder for Vedauwoo yields 3 other routes in your criteria, but none that I have climbed.

Wow, did not even know that feature existed, thanks for that. Is there a way I can search for routes near a city somehow? All I've figured out how to do is just a general colorado search

Click the "change" link next to location, drill down until you are where you want to be.

Elevenmile canyon is a great option, almost zero approach, most routes are 2 pitches but there are a few 3 pitch routes are on turret dome and are a 5.5ish, it would be pushing that 2 hour drive into a 3 hour drive, but camping is abundant

Hey Evan,

I would recommend Eldorado Canyon personally. It is an easy drive from Fort Collins/Greeley (maybe an hour, 1.5 hours?), super easy hikes and there are multiple lines that would fall under the category you are looking for. Bastille, Great Zot, Wind Ridge, Green Spur, Icarus, Ruper, etc. Boulder Canyon has a few easier multi pitch lines too. Cobb Rock comes to mind and some meandering Castle Rock lines. Also Combat rock in Big T has a few easy multi pitch lines.

I live in Fort Collins, so if you are ever looking to get out with someone i can help there too.

bv
white-knuckled.blogspot.com

Osiris in Lumpy, Pear Buttress in Lumpy (I realize this is rated 8 but you can skip the run out by scrambling to the left and the crack is STELLAR and super well protected), +1 Rewritten, Bastille Crack, the Bulge, Icarus, Swansons Arete, Wind Ridge (may not meet your specs but c'mon this is a great route no matter how hard you climb). I'll update if I can think of more.

DavidH wrote:Osiris in Lumpy, Pear Buttress in Lumpy (I realize this is rated 8 but you can skip the run out by scrambling to the left and the crack is STELLAR and super well protected), +1 Rewritten, Bastille Crack, the Bulge, Icarus, Swansons Arete, Wind Ridge (may not meet your specs but c'mon this is a great route no matter how hard you climb). I'll update if I can think of more.

I've climbed Kor's Flake in Lumpy, runout was freaky (I was the lucky one to lead that runout pitch where you can do a body jam in one part). Going by my experience on the climb, there is one or two pitches the guy I'm going with may not be able to climb (not because he's incapable, but I'm not sure how level-headed he is especially for a slightly longer climb like that).

My first trad multipitch lead was only a two pitch climb, and since it was my first time, at the top of the second pitch felt like I was looking down 2000 feet. I just want to also take that into account. I know how freaky the first one can be, even with a lot of single pitch climbs under his belt

BryanV wrote:Hey Evan, I would recommend Eldorado Canyon personally. It is an easy drive from Fort Collins/Greeley (maybe an hour, 1.5 hours?), super easy hikes and there are multiple lines that would fall under the category you are looking for. Bastille, Great Zot, Wind Ridge, Green Spur, Icarus, Ruper, etc. Boulder Canyon has a few easier multi pitch lines too. Cobb Rock comes to mind and some meandering Castle Rock lines. Also Combat rock in Big T has a few easy multi pitch lines. I live in Fort Collins, so if you are ever looking to get out with someone i can help there too. bv white-knuckled.blogspot.com

Cool man, I'll be sure to hit you up sometime. I'm moving to Tennessee in mid-May, but I'm going to try to get a good 3-4 days of climbing in per week pending the weather until then, so I'll definitely be looking for a partner

Greyrock (up Poudre Canyon NW of Fort Collins)). The approach isn't that bad and there's plenty of classic 3 pitch moderates - and you can easily link a few in a day.

Suck it up and hump out to greyrock!

In all seriousness, that little unassuming hunk of granite northwest of Fort Collins offers classic moderate trad on generally excellent stone in a picturesque environment with ZERO lines. Even on the nicest of weekend days, as long as you're not climbing the greatest route or Theodore and you've got some decent data (plenty on Mountain project or get the guidebook) you'll have at least a dozen excellent “easy multi-pitch climbs” to choose from with no one ahead of or behind you. Hike out to Northwest slabs, climb Sky Crack, drop down the summit trail, and enjoy options on the southeast face like Le Petit Francais, or Barfy's Favorite via Judy's Jaunt. Eldo's good and fun but far from the be-all end-all of front Range trad climbing.

Edit: didn't intend to duplicate Kevin's suggestion, looks like he beat me to it!

You might also want to check out the book Serious Play by Steve Dieckhoff.

Also, there are some possible routes in the South Saint Vrain canyon, but mostly 2 pitch I think. There is however 4 pitch route up the Piz Badille although I've never climbed it so can't vouch for it at all.

One of my favs.. Cob Rock, North Face Center 5.7

mountainproject.com/v/color…

talkinrocks wrote:One of my favs.. Cob Rock, North Face Center 5.7 mountainproject.com/v/color…

YES!

I would like to offer one suggestion in that much of Eldo can be heady for a new leader on gear. I would with out question say the Direct east face of the First Flatiron would be the best route. The climbing is easy enough with almost no exposure given the slab. As far as protection just give him some hexes a full rack of nuts and all your cams. It will be heavy but will make sure he has everything he needs.

One other thought would be Young and the Rackless in Boulder Canyon. It's a sport route but is exposed enough to work on keeping your head while providing easy climbing and the head security of bolts. It's good practice for a new leader.

Blob is closed now but may be open as of July 31 and possibly sooner.

Young and the Rackless

NFS