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Colorado
> Alpine Rock
> RMNP - Rock
> Glacier Gorge
> Chiefshead
> Chiefshead Northwest…
The Central Rib
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.8 from 12
votes
Routes in Chiefshead Northwest Face
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7 Arrows T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Birds of Fire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Central Rib, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flight of the Kiwi 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Easy Snow |
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Much Ado About Nothing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft (515 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,675 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Duncan on Apr 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
The route begins on the NW side of the Chiefshead, below the NW face. The north ridge or central rib is obvious from this location to your left. Follow steep disconnected ramps and ledges up to the NE to gain the rib proper. Once on the rib, a rope might be nice for about a pitch or less depending on how comfortable you are with exposure (5.easy). After 100-200 feet, the route turns back into scrambling for a bit, until you are directly under the north ridge proper. From here, you have several choices, and route finding becomes more interesting. Stay directly on the arete proper for the 5.7 route. The rock is fairly good, and the exposure and views become increasingly robust. Venture to the left or the right of the route for easier/harder terrain. About 3/4 of the way up the route, before the final headwall, there is an option to traverse west above the NW face to avoid all of the difficulties.
Descent: Follow the northwest ridge down to Stone Man pass.
Descent: Follow the northwest ridge down to Stone Man pass.
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