Most favorite beginner routes

Seneca Rocks treated me well with some good beginner routes. I loved Ecstasy Jr. 5.4(and Ecstasy, though considerably more difficult - 5.7). Green Wall was my first trad lead (5.7)and I scared the hell out of me the first time. Went back and did it again years later - still super fun. Lots of great routes in Seneca.

Call me overly cautious if you want, but I really have to wonder what people are thinking when they mention routes like Son of Easy O and Zoo View in the same breath with "beginner routes." The OP may be a high-grade sport climber, but leading on gear is a whole other ball game no matter how hard you climb. You really need to have all your systems dialed in before you get on most of the routes that have been mentioned, and having three trad leads under your belt isn't enough.

Those of us in Georgia are painfully aware of a young guy who was a 5.11-5.12 sport leader and paid the ultimate price on his first and only trad lead at Tallulah Gorge.

JL

I'll give you the stuff closest to you first. Moore's Wall is a great resource for the beginning trad leader. Zoo View and Wailing Wall are awesome, but also get on Air Show (5.8+) Sustained, but well protected at the cruxes. Shithook(5.8+) - Tricky nuts down low, but very fun. Stone Mountain probably doesn't fit your criteria for 'LOTS of gear' except for the Great Arch. Crowder's Mountain is better known for it's topropes and sport climbs, but it has a few worthy trad moderates. Caterpillar (5.7) is a really long chimney with good gear throughout. Ooga Chocka (5.8) is a gorgeous dihedral to a finger crack. Rumbling Bald is next closest. Lots of good lines at the Cereal Buttress, Obamanation (5.8+) is a newer line that has lots of gear. 5.8 Crack over at the Test Pilots area is a nice fist crack that eats large cams.

Twall Nutrasweet 5.7 single pitch great pro if you have lots of hand size pieces. T wall would be my first choice many moderate well protected single pitch. Plus its basically cracks which you will need to get mileage on if you're getting into trad

The Mummy 5.6 at Linville is great but does include a semi-hanging belay

Northridge is a great multipitch 5.5 at Linville is superb fun and well-protected

Little Corner 5.6 at Shortoff is three pitches with good pro throughout

I agree with Saxfiend to keep the grades light at first. Why not?

I agree with peter on nutrasweet.
would add roadside attraction 5.7 RRG

I'd just suggest a trip out to twall or the red. Both have incredible trad climbing and are generally easy to protect and lack the NC runout

saxfiend wrote:Call me overly cautious if you want, but I really have to wonder what people are thinking when they mention routes like Son of Easy O and Zoo View in the same breath with "beginner routes." The OP may be a high-grade sport climber, but leading on gear is a whole other ball game no matter how hard you climb. You really need to have all your systems dialed in before you get on most of the routes that have been mentioned, and having three trad leads under your belt isn't enough. Those of us in Georgia are painfully aware of a young guy who was a 5.11-5.12 sport leader and paid the ultimate price on his first and only trad lead at Tallulah Gorge. JL

Yea, when I said "anything at Moore's Wall" I didn't mean that a beginner should be getting on Zoo View, or AIRSHOW! I can't believe anyone would recommend these as "beginner climbs." Both climbs are very exposed and Airshow is a full on 150 foot sustained climb that is all past vertical... with multiple "5.8+" cruxes. Sure they are well protected IF you are competent at placing gear, and Moore's can be tricky in that regard. FWIW I've seen more than one 5.10 trad climber get freaked on Zoo View and a lot more on Airshow.

These climbs aren't incredibly difficult but recommending them to a beginner asking for "up to 5.8" just shows that you are either ignorant or just trying do downplay what was probably a much more eventful ascent for you than you'd like to admit.

Anyways, there are plenty of routes at Moore's (and other NC areas) that go at 5.6 and easier that should be done simply because they are great routes. Do them first, then start in on the 5.7's. If you get on anything at Moore's with a plus at the end, be ready to really climb. You'll be ready for the Circus Wall soon enough... wait 'til you are and it will be one of your best days of climbing!

Lauren, I guess Ill fall in line and admit that I am ignorant and that Zoo View may be a little much for a beginner lead (although it was one of my 1st in that grade). It is steep, but the holds are almost all GREAT and there is pretty good gear throughout BUT the problem lies in your placing efficiency. The route is exposed and very steep with a pretty big roof, so if you hang out to long placing gear you will end up pumping out if your endurance isn't good. Try and find a partner that can lead it for you because it may be my favorite route of all time. Same goes for golden earing and wailing wall though... not gimmes by any means at the grade.

My earlier post:
"Son of EasyO. Done in one pitch and it could be one of my favorite routes ever. You may want to do a few other lines at the Gunks first to get used to the style of climbing but if you go make sure not to miss this gem."

I was not trying to down play anything and I am not ignorant. I never thought the gear was hard to manage especially if you took my advice and lead a few other routes first. I would think for a sport climber this would be an approachable route since it climbs like sport. But if you think it is a bad idea just leave it at that. I think it is one of the best 5.8s out there and it should not be missed if you are going to the Gunks. Find a partner to lead it for you and take a second if you have to. It has all the great attributes of a classic Gunks line.

The Flatirons are not to be missed. While there are some runouts the climbing is easy, you can do 1400 vertical feet on rock and never get harder than 5.4. It's not everyone's cup of tea but I love it. The approach hikes early in the morning are awesome as well.

I think Lovers Leap near Lake Tahoe is the best beginner crag I've ever seen. Bears Reach, Corrugation Corner, Haystack, and many many more. Good gear, good rock, good climbing.

thomas ellis wrote:My earlier post: "Son of EasyO. Done in one pitch and it could be one of my favorite routes ever. You may want to do a few other lines at the Gunks first to get used to the style of climbing but if you go make sure not to miss this gem." I was not trying to down play anything and I am not ignorant. I never thought the gear was hard to manage especially if you took my advice and lead a few other routes first. I would think for a sport climber this would be an approachable route since it climbs like sport. But if you think it is a bad idea just leave it at that. I think it is one of the best 5.8s out there and it should not be missed if you are going to the Gunks. Find a partner to lead it for you and take a second if you have to. It has all the great attributes of a classic Gunks line.

Never been on that route, so I wouldn't know. Wasn't calling you ignorant. I was only talking about the Circus Wall at Moore's.

As has been said earlier, easy doesn't necessarily mean beginner. My recommendations:

East Face, Third Flatiron (5.3)

Tahquitz:
Fingertip Traverse (5.3)
L. Ski Track (5.6)
Fingertrip (5.7)

Joshua Tree
Right On (5.5)
Fote Hog (5.6)
Mental Physics (5.7)

Yosemite:
After Six (5.6)
Royal Arches (5.6, A0)
Snake Dike (5.7)--long runouts
SE Butt, Cathedral Peak (5.7)

Ryan Williams wrote: Yea, when I said "anything at Moore's Wall" I didn't mean that a beginner should be getting on Zoo View, or AIRSHOW! I can't believe anyone would recommend these as "beginner climbs." Both climbs are very exposed and Airshow is a full on 150 foot sustained climb that is all past vertical... with multiple "5.8+" cruxes. Sure they are well protected IF you are competent at placing gear, and Moore's can be tricky in that regard. FWIW I've seen more than one 5.10 trad climber get freaked on Zoo View and a lot more on Airshow. These climbs aren't incredibly difficult but recommending them to a beginner asking for "up to 5.8" just shows that you are either ignorant or just trying do downplay what was probably a much more eventful ascent for you than you'd like to admit. Anyways, there are plenty of routes at Moore's (and other NC areas) that go at 5.6 and easier that should be done simply because they are great routes. Do them first, then start in on the 5.7's. If you get on anything at Moore's with a plus at the end, be ready to really climb. You'll be ready for the Circus Wall soon enough... wait 'til you are and it will be one of your best days of climbing!

Hard to understand your rationale here when you recommended White Lightning at Table Rock in your earlier post. I found it to be more strenuous than Airshow and trickier to place gear at the crux. Rest assured, my recommendation for Airshow is based strictly on my own experience climbing it, not on an attempt to toot my own horn for doing so. Cynical little bugger, aren't you? I will agree that Zoo View is heady for the grade, with serious fall consequences and not recommended for the new leader, I also think that Golden Earring has a bit of a heady traverse and would likewise not recommend it for an early lead.

Edward Medina wrote: Hard to understand your rationale here when you recommended White Lightning at Table Rock in your earlier post. I found it to be more strenuous than Airshow and trickier to place gear at the crux. Rest assured, my recommendation for Airshow is based strictly on my own experience climbing it, not on an attempt to toot my own horn for doing so. Cynical little bugger, aren't you? I will agree that Zoo View is heady for the grade, with serious fall consequences and not recommended for the new leader, I also think that Golden Earring has a bit of a heady traverse and would likewise not recommend it for an early lead.

Well you're not the first person to call me a cynical little bugger.

I did say that White Lightening was "a good test for a 5.8 climber" and that the first pitch is deceptively hard. I think that describes the route well enough for the OP to make her own decision. I personally thought the second pitch was cake with a juggy undercling and perfect jams for small handed folks, excellent feet and bomber gear.

Like you, I am just remembering my experience on the routes. I thought Airshow was a step above White Lightening in physical difficulty, exposure, and finding gear. The second crux is only done properly by using a single pad crimp that you must reach for blindly while hanging on a jam that could be wide for a woman. The crimp is followed by another hold that would certainly not be considered sinker by a beginner (or most solid 5.8 climbers).

I agree with you about Golden Earring/Almost Seven. A little heady for the 5.7 climber, but a world easier than Airshow and a lot less heady than Zoo View. Still bad fall potential though. I had this route in mind when I recommended that the OP get solid on 5.6 at Moore's before moving up to 5.7.

Anyways, I always enjoy arguing in detail about Moore's routes. I find that I remember routes there better than anywhere else in the world. It is my favorite climbing area, full stop.

Sorry for the ugly comments.

5.8 trad is not for beginners. Period.

Timmamok wrote:5.8 trad is not for beginners. Period.

Beginner climber...no. Beginner at trad...sure!

Ty Meadows wrote: Beginner climber...no. Beginner at trad...sure!

You're making the assumption that everyone new approaches climbing from a gym or sport climbing. Definitely a lot more true nowadays, but still not always the case.

Fat Dad wrote: You're making the assumption that everyone new approaches climbing from a gym or sport climbing. Definitely a lot more true nowadays, but still not always the case.

No assumptions...the OP climbs multi-pitch 12a. 5.8 should not be a problem with a little placement instruction.

Cathedral Ledge, NH:

• Thin Air (5.6)
• Upper Refuse (5.5)

Whitehorse Ledge, NH:

• Standard Route Direct (5.7)
• Echo Roof (5.5)

Gunks (Trapps), NY:

• Rhododendhren (5.6)
• Horseman (5.5)
• Beginner's Delight (5.4)
• Easy O (5.2)

Flatirons, CO:

• East Face of 1st
• East Face of 3rd

The list is endless!!!

I love all the recommendations! Just for the record - just set 5.8 as a limit - I'm really just looking for easy. Grades are all different - while would love to claim I crush 5.12a sport - was one route, that 21 pitches in, even following I would never claim I climbed :)

A sport climb is much much different than a trad climb. I love gear but jamming is tough. Give me little crimps any day! So a 5.6 crack climb I would consider just as tough for me as a 5.10 facey climb. (trad/sport aside) *Just to be super clear no not ready to jump on 5.10 trad any style

Ryan - thanks of thinking of routes in terms of women being smaller - being petite I find sometimes that makes things a bit different. Trying to wait just a bit longer for Moores to warm up!

Peter I followed Nutrasweet - was completely game until the top - was a weird jam, smeary feet? (to be fair with lots and lots of gear) I found Twall fairly intimidating for being a new trad/crack climber?

Rick - I think the flatirons sound fantastic. If I could spend all day going up something just fun and easy that would be perfect. How much longer till it gets warm up that way?

kwyatt - I'm going to LG on the 9th to do the Nose - think its an all day adventure or will I have time to get other stuff in too?