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Alpine Climbing - Book suggestion?

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Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

Has anybody read "Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher"? Its the one with the red cover and a picture of a guy's feet with crampons on the rocks.

I am looking for a book with more detail than Freedom of the Hills but I'd read a review that said if you have FotH and an advanced rock climbing skills book, which I have both of, to not bother with this one.

Can anyone back that up? Make other suggestions for winter snow/ice/glacier travel that goes beyond Freedom of the Hills?

Thanks

Jeremy Bauman · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,067

I have it and highly recommend it to my friends. Since reading it I have definitely improved my alpine climbing form and reduced weight, as well as learn a bunch of interesting tricks of the trade.

Great book!

Micahisaac · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 80

if FOTH is the Old Testament, then Extreme Alpinism is the new testament. It will take you where you need to go.
amazon.com/Extreme-Alpinism…

Dave Swink · · Boulder, Co · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 285

Extreme Alpinism by Mark Twight. Lots of good information/techniques and a fun read.

Micah beat me by a minute! Extreme Alpinism is closer to Revelations than the Gospel. Exciting but scary.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Wehling wrote:Has anybody read "Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher"? Its the one with the red cover and a picture of a guy's feet with crampons on the rocks. I am looking for a book with more detail than Freedom of the Hills but I'd read a review that said if you have FotH and an advanced rock climbing skills book, which I have both of, to not bother with this one. Can anyone back that up? Make other suggestions for winter snow/ice/glacier travel that goes beyond Freedom of the Hills? Thanks
have it, recommend it

they give some very good advice on navigations, techniques, etc ...

IMO better than extreme alpinism ... you can get a lot of whats in extreme alpinism on andy kirkpatricks articles on his site
Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,153
bearbreeder wrote: have it, recommend it they give some very good advice on navigations, techniques, etc ... IMO better than extreme alpinism ... you can get a lot of whats in extreme alpinism on andy kirkpatricks articles on his site
I agree. Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher is a very good resource.
KG Lee · · Princeton, NJ · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

If you already have rock climbing skills and want to know more about general alpine skills, I think Alpine Climbing is an excellent book. It has a bunch of tricks and tips and is more applicable to the weekend warrior.

Extreme Alpinism on the other hand assumes the reader is already an experience alpinist (e.g. it does not cover glacier rescue techniques whatsoever) wanting to push into big routes in the Greater Ranges. I wouldn't recommend it to a beginning alpinist.

Erik W · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 280
Micah Isaac wrote:if FOTH is the Old Testament, then Extreme Alpinism is the new testament.
Well then point me in the direction of the Scientology version of alpinism, because I want something so new and so warped that it'll blow my mind. "Put on your Xenu cloak and bivi while standing upright on one leg, for gravity is zero when inside the cloak. Use mental electron migration to think your worldly body up blank slabs and overhanging M15. For training, do couch jumps, repeat."

Steve Murphy · · Timnath, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 20
Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, Selters

Snow Sense, Fredston and Fesler

The Mountaineering Handbook, Connally

The first two will help with travel in snow and crevasse areas (combine with an Avi I course for better understanding). The third is a general mountaineering skills book, but more in-depth than FOTH.

Steve
CO_Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 956

Excellent Book and Top international guides.

I have climbed with the authors and have the book as well. You can't go wrong.

Mark Houston is the TOP AMERICAN GUIDE. Lives part time in Chamonix and climbs around the world.

cosleyhouston.com/

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325
bearbreeder wrote: have it, recommend it they give some very good advice on navigations, techniques, etc ... IMO better than extreme alpinism ... you can get a lot of whats in extreme alpinism on andy kirkpatricks articles on his site
+1

TtTYH is a more practical guide. EA is the bigger picture. Ideally get and read both.

Not a big fan of the Connally book. Too many solutions in search of a problem IIRC.
Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20
Kevin Craig wrote:Too many solutions in search of a problem IIRC.
What do you mean by this Kevin?

Everyone else, thanks for the input. I'll go ahead and get this book along with maybe a few of the others. I just ordered 4 books from Amazon so I'll probably wait a few weeks....
Tyler Wick · · Bishop, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 200

I've read them all - FoTH, Mountaineering Handbook, Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher, and Extreme Alpinism.

I actually liked The Mountaineering Handbook the best, and it is the one I use for reference the most. Techniques to Take You Higher definitely has a good section on leadership skills/decision making though.

Owen Darrow · · Helena, mt · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,790

I love that book but no amount of reading can prepare you for the real thing. I always read a chapter and make some quick notes and go climb and use what I have jotted down even if it is as simple as breathing a certain way. Anything helps when shit hits the fan!

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260

Just giving that thread a bump - perhaps in the last decade or so new interesting references have come up. Currently looking at the 3 main themes mentioned here (Mountain Handbook, Techniques that take you higher& extreme alpinism). But in case you guys have more...

Oh and yes I know:

C Limenski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 15
Erik W wrote: if FOTH is the Old Testament, then Extreme Alpinism is the new testament. Well then point me in the direction of the Scientology version of alpinism, because I want something so new and so warped that it'll blow my mind. "Put on your Xenu cloak and bivi while standing upright on one leg, for gravity is zero when inside the cloak. Use mental electron migration to think your worldly body up blank slabs and overhanging M15. For training, do couch jumps, repeat."

bringing this forward for prosperity

Alyssa K · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 46

I've found the Mountain Guide Manual by Marc Chauvin (2017) to be quite useful. It takes a more modern approach to alpine climbing and occupies a niche that the other recommendations don't fill. 

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

I mentionned it a few days ago on another thread but still in the scope of your question: 

As a "how-to" book that can really help you go beyond the basic stuff I really like "1001+ Tips for climbers" from Andy Kirkpatrick. Its really a must, down-to-earth, read IMHO.

John Penca · · North Little Rock · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Freedom of the hills is all inclusive.

After that is time and experience 

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260
John Penca wrote:

Freedom of the hills is all inclusive.

After that is time and experience 

Ah yes I did read doth and get back to it from time to time. However I think I got the mileage I could get from it and need something that goes deeper.

Demetri Vernadakis · · New Britain, CT · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 115

DOWN by Andy Kirkpatrick

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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