Dutchman's Gold--Weaver's Needle

Has anyone recently or ever (other than the first and second ascents--first climbed in the 60's and repeated in the 80's) climbed the Dutchman's Gold, 5.9R on the back side (east face) of Weaver's Needle?

Would enjoy hearing someone else's experience or history of route--considering I have yet to make the first pitch (bailed again today)

Did El Grungo and the majority of Supe. routes but this one has me stumped?

Thanks,

Sean

hmmm i just lead a couple friends up the tourist side (5.0) a couple weekends ago. I havent seen the 5.9 side. Whats making you bail? and how does it have a R rating?

The "R" rating would be for loose rock and scanty protection or lack there-of. I guess I'm bailing for both of those reasons and lack of committment to do the sketchy moves on rotten rock, etc..

Concerning my comment about climbing the majority of the routes in the Supes. How about I have climbed on most of the major formations along with several obscurities in the Supes.--as noted in the original Phoenix Rock and I believe in your mini follow-up guide.

Again, my original question--anyone completed or have any history on the Dutchman's Gold?

Thank,

Sean

Way to get after it Sean. Good luck on finding a little beta on that route. I scoped it out years ago. For me, at the time, it looked a little intimidating. For years now I have felt that the Supes are due for a resurgence.

I agreee that the Supes. have more potential and a resurgence is in order...but first...I would really like to complete this "classic" Waugh route. I could not agree with you more that it looks itimidating, my hands sweat right now thinking I might go back.

Greg, not offended at all and was actually hoping you might chime in with some first hand experience or more knowledge than what I have located (the same as yours!)

Two rotten loose pins, have not found the third. Be intrigued and give it a whirl, perhaps we could attempt it as a trio one of these days and if anything, ponder how in the heck they climbed these routes 40+ years ago.

Different breed of climbers back then!

Sean

Did not realize that it was a Waugh FFA. Isn't he back in AZ? I once spent a whole day, doing routes with him in the Supes and he lead each and every route I put him on and I followed. Assembly line work. Didn't even look up at each route to scope it out a little. Talking while he tied in then just kept moving up. Did my first simul rap that day. He insisted. Incredible man. Did you know he was once a drummer for Joe Walsh and has summited Denali. Motivated. Lots of respect for that guy.

I had bouldered with him way back when--bouldering stuff no-one else could touch (pre-indoor gym). Climbed several of his routes and enjoyed them all-ones you will always remember.

I last spoke with him at a climbing gym and he causually mentioned to try his route on the Acropolis (South Face 5.11), do not think that is going to happen!

Checked his routes out on the Flatiron and quickly rushed away...yes, he is/was one heck of climber.

Sean

AH the south face of acropolis.this route reportedly has not seen a second assent and for good reason. a buddy and i tried this route 2 years ago about this time of year and made it three and a half pitches up befor making a GOOD decision to back off. just a big pile of choss. could have filled a truck with the rock fall that came with climbing this route.never the less it was a good experience and im still walkin and talkin. would have been cool to have made it though.I have climbed the Dutchmans gold but it was over 15 years ago so i can't remember details but i do remember it being like the south face of acropolis a big pile of choss. be safe PEACE E

Such a versatile mountain range. It has some of the best, bullet proof rock I have ever climbed on and some of the worst. Miss that place a lot. You all are fortunate to have it in your back yard.

I may be wrong but what I remember about the Acropolis (South Face 5.11) ( I only know of two routes on the south face, are there more?) is Herb North ,Dennis Abbink and I made the first attempt the south face in the mid '70's. We only got three or 4 pitches up and bailed. At the time only a few had the desire to get on the route and we were keen on another attempt when Stan Mish and company scooped us. Waugh was not around at the time.
I'd like to hear if someone knows different, It's been a while.

Below is a photo of Herb North on the first pitch.

Peter
Your but shot and mine are taken from the exact same location. Whats the chances of that? My old Waugh book give you and Mr Mish the FA in 81. I got on it in the early 90's. Bailed on the fourth pitch my self I believe. Lots of bailing going on here:) I don't remember a lot of loose rock. My partner, Tim Wenger could not find where the pitch went. Here is the bail shot.

Got any more of them Supes photos? I live for that stuff. Much respect for that early ascent into the unknown. Very Bold.

The Supes are humbling. Me and a friend were to spend our spring break out there last year. We follied around a lot of first pitches then ran to the 'saftey' of Sedona to finish off the weekend with at least a couple of assents!

Steve

Thank you for the photo's and some stories of the South Face, I have only looked up at the route before sauntering over to the Odyssey.

The Supes. are incredible and have offered more adventures than most places I have climbed, we are lucky to have them in the backyard.

Again, thanks for sharing memories and photo's; Erik, I would like hearing more about the Dutchman's Gold--I'm thinking you might have been the third party to enjoy the route...

Sean

From my copy of Phoenix Rock, formerly belonging to John Middendorf (i.e., his notes, not mine):

looks scary!