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Safeway Spire - Five Finger Discount
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British C2-
Avg: 2.5 from 6
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Routes in Walmart Tower and Safeway Spire
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Safeway Spire - Five Finger Discount T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2- |
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Walmart Tower-Twelve Pack of Tube Socks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jon Butler and Cameron Burns with Luke Laeser on the first pitch (April 8, 1995) |
| Page Views: | 3,954 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Feb 24, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Five Finger Discount climbs Safeway Spire.
P1 - Climb up the dihedral past some bad rock, to a belay in a chimney. 5.10d, about 100'.
P2 - Cut left out of the chimney on bolts to a hanging belay on the face. C1, 30'. (Note that this pitch looked as if it would go free without too much trouble 5.11+?)
P3 - Aid crux thin gear. 30' of manky rock to a splitter crack, that leads to another hanging belay. C2-, 70'. (Note that this pitch also looked as if it would go free, the crux of which would be the manky rock on dicey gear.)
P4 - Continue up the widening crack system to a belay. 5.10 or C1, 70'.
P5 - Climb 20' of 5.9 to a thin crack in a tight dihedral, (Loweballs make this go clean). Continue to a wide crack and fun climbing, drilled pins and an interesting mantel gets you to the summit. 5.9 C1, 130'. (Note that everything but the last 30' of this pitch will go free without to much trouble. The last 30' might go free with a variation out left instead of following the bolts out right.)
We short fixed pitch 2 thinking it was much longer then it was, I would combine pitches 1 and 2 in the future. We combined pitches 3 and 4 with no problems.
This route will likely go free at hard 5.12.
P1 - Climb up the dihedral past some bad rock, to a belay in a chimney. 5.10d, about 100'.
P2 - Cut left out of the chimney on bolts to a hanging belay on the face. C1, 30'. (Note that this pitch looked as if it would go free without too much trouble 5.11+?)
P3 - Aid crux thin gear. 30' of manky rock to a splitter crack, that leads to another hanging belay. C2-, 70'. (Note that this pitch also looked as if it would go free, the crux of which would be the manky rock on dicey gear.)
P4 - Continue up the widening crack system to a belay. 5.10 or C1, 70'.
P5 - Climb 20' of 5.9 to a thin crack in a tight dihedral, (Loweballs make this go clean). Continue to a wide crack and fun climbing, drilled pins and an interesting mantel gets you to the summit. 5.9 C1, 130'. (Note that everything but the last 30' of this pitch will go free without to much trouble. The last 30' might go free with a variation out left instead of following the bolts out right.)
We short fixed pitch 2 thinking it was much longer then it was, I would combine pitches 1 and 2 in the future. We combined pitches 3 and 4 with no problems.
This route will likely go free at hard 5.12.
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