Most favorite beginner routes

Hi - I just started trad climbing (think maybe three routes under my belt) -and just for fun was wondering what everyone's favorite beginner routes are? Easy routes (up to 5.8's) that take LOTS of gear!

where in the country are you looking for routes?

doesn't take a ton of gear, but the daddy, mummy, and prow in linville gorge are a really good intro to multipitch

I like and I'm still kind of young at it.

Shiprock, NC - Edge of a Dream 5.7 - Lost at Sea 5.8

Looking Glass Rock, NC - Anything on the Southside - The Nose 5.8

Tablerock, NC - Peek a Boo 5.5 i think nm gear but fun - North Ridge is good as well.

Zoo View at Moore's Wall- best 5.7+ in the universe IMHO. Also be sure to do Wailing Wall- ultra classic 5.6, and Almost Seven (aka Golden Earing)- great 5.7

Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald is another awesome 5.7+

The Mummy and/or the Daddy at the Amphitheater in Linville Gorge- sick 5.6's- both are a wee bit heads up.

Once you do all these you should be ready to step it up a notch.

"27 years of Climbing"
Sport Route: 5.8+
The Gallery in RRG. One of the best moderates I've ever done.
The Red has cracks and sport of all levels.
Good luck, wish I had more for you.

Kevin - Looking for anywhere in the country - making my first year tick list :)

Chan and kwyatt - Fruit Loops and Peek a boo were my first two routes - super fun! So glad I let my friend lead P2 of Peek a Boo

Have you guys done any routes at the NRG?

Stone Mountain: U Slot 5.7, Block Route 5.8,
Looking Glass: The Nose 5.8, Sundial Crack 5.8, Second Coming 5.7, Short Man's Sorrow 5.6,
Rumbling Bald: Bear Hunt 5.7, The Gift 5.7, Gift Certificate 5.8, Bee Tree 5.5, Comatose 5.8, Granola 5.8+,
For what it's worth this is a list of my favorite moderates near WCU.

easily flakey 5.5? at NRG

there is almost always a line on the weekends for a reason. It is a blast and protects really well.

If you find yourself in the Gunks - Minty.

Best beta ever - Yes, you have to step out on the face. - Thanks Dolgio!

Son of EasyO. Done in one pitch and it could be one of my favorite routes ever. You may want to do a few other lines at the Gunks first to get used to the style of climbing but if you go make sure not to miss this gem.

thomas ellis wrote:Son of EasyO. Done in one pitch and it could be one of my favorite routes ever. You may want to do a few other lines at the Gunks first to get used to the style of climbing but if you go make sure not to miss this gem.

I think Son of Easy O deserves it's 5.8 rating. P2 has very so-so feet in my opinion. I don't think that would be a good choice for a new leader that has three routes total under his belt.

Just my opinion, though, and I am a crappy climber, so I am sure that colors my perceptions.

Alicia Sokolowski wrote: I think Son of Easy O deserves it's 5.8 rating. P2 has very so-so feet in my opinion. I don't think that would be a good choice for a new leader that has three routes total under his belt. Just my opinion, though, and I am a crappy climber, so I am sure that colors my perceptions.

Scratch that, I just checked out OP's ticklist, and she leads 5.12 on sport, so this shouldn't be a problem.

"Stuart's Arete" in Big Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. It's a 3 pitch 5.8 that will take alot of pro and the view at the top is pretty sweet.

Here is a link to a thread I had a while back... Very thorough list of recommended beginner trad leads in NRG at the bottom of the first page by Sam Stephens. Should be pretty helpful if you're heading to WV.

'standard rack' question

Pretty much anything at Moore's Wall. It's a fantastic place to learn how to climb (and my favorite area in the world, for real). And it's easily a day trip from Cary. Also recommend Cereal Butress at the Bald. Don't lay the cracks back like most people, but learn how to lock and jam. Then get to the Gorge. Ampitheater for the Mummy, the Daddy, and the Prow. White Lightening at Table Rock is a good test for a 5.8 climber (the first pitch corner is harder than the 2nd pitch roof). Maginot Line at Shortoff is excellent as well.

If you can deal with the steepness and sometimes funky gear at Moores, climb cracks at Cereal Butress, and handle the approach and exposure at the Ampitheater and Shortoff then you are well on your way to becoming a solid climber.

I'm jealous. Have fun!

Gamesmanship @ Poke-O-Moonshine in the Adirondacks
Pete's Farewell @ Pitchoff Chimney Cliff in the Adirondacks
Frog's Head @ the Gunks
Disneyland @ the Gunks
5 Gallon Buckets @ Smith Rock, OR
Funhouse @ Cathedral Ledge, NH
Clip-a-de-do-dah @ Rumney, NH

Lauren Trojan wrote:Hi - I just started trad climbing (think maybe three routes under my belt) -and just for fun was wondering what everyone's favorite beginner routes are? Easy routes (up to 5.8's) that take LOTS of gear!

What's My Line (5.6) - Cochise Stronghold, AZ
mountainproject.com/v/arizo…

That's my favorite 5.6 I have been up. The A0 part is what makes it fun, you'll need to read the description.

I have too many moderates to list that I have really enjoyed in Red Rock, Nevada. Life time of fun climbing there.

I would be interested in some guidance in this area as well, except for in western Colorado/eastern Utah.

Just did my first multi pitch a couple of months ago, and damn she,s a good one. Toll House Treverse Well protected, 3-4 pitches with some exciting cruxes, and not a busy route.

THT

ChanVan wrote:Zoo View at Moore's Wall- best 5.7+ in the universe IMHO. Also be sure to do Wailing Wall- ultra classic 5.6, and Almost Seven (aka Golden Earing)- great 5.7 Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald is another awesome 5.7+ The Mummy and/or the Daddy at the Amphitheater in Linville Gorge- sick 5.6's- both are a wee bit heads up. Once you do all these you should be ready to step it up a notch.

+1 with a big emphasis on ZOO VIEW! I would agree its the best 7 in the universe. Moores Wall is sick! Golden earing and wailing wall are also great routes.