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Tyson Taylor
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Mar 17, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 70
Up until this point, I might have mis-counted and some answers had to be interpreted(read: 'not cleanly' counts as a no), but we have 44 no and 57 yes. It's about what I'd expect considering most people are posting that they've been climbing for several years. I hope I'm in the 12's soon but who knows. There might be a bit of exaggeration going on but I doubt it's on the scale that the previous posters might expect. I'd hate to claim something untrue only to be caught in a lie later. That's gotta suck.
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Richard88
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Mar 17, 2011
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Sheridan, WY
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 65
yes, both 3-4 years no 5.10c
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kachoong
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Mar 17, 2011
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Atlanta, GA
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 180
1)Yes 2)17 years 3)Yes 4)12a trad, 12c sport. Climbed first 5.12 after three and a half years and climbed my last 5.12 about eleven years ago. So, I was only a real climber for about three years.
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Steven Lucarelli
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Mar 17, 2011
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Grand Junction, CO
· Joined Jul 2005
· Points: 6,794
#1 Yes, Both #2 14 Years #3 Yes, Trad & Sport, Gym & Outdoors #4 5.12c, both trad & sport
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Sam Lightner, Jr.
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Mar 17, 2011
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Lander, WY
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 2,732
He did offer his email address... just sayin'.
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chuck claude
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Mar 17, 2011
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Flagstaff, Az
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 225
JLP wrote:I think the correct takeaway is that 90% of people who feel the need to publicly announce their grade (OP gave option of PM) climbed at least a single 12 one fine day long ago - maybe. What they actually climb regularly is another story. We need an 8a.nu feature here that does a more effective job of ranking. I bet it would at least triple traffic on this site. Now most people will take offense but lets get real, 5.12 sport or trad nowadays isn't anything special in the big picture. Among individual climbers for whom its a goal that is a different story and it may feel like a rather unattainable goal. But the number who climb regularly at that level (either sport or trad) is a surprising number of people and as a percentage, in some communities its a rather high percentage. Hell, last fall there was a line of individuals trying to get onto a 5.13 crack at Indian Creek, with the person first in line a 13 year old kid.
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M Sprague
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Mar 17, 2011
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New England
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 5,090
1- Yes, both 2- 28 years 3- Yes 4- 13c
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chuck claude
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Mar 17, 2011
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Flagstaff, Az
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 225
JLP wrote: The stats have been looked at here in the past - looking at R&I surveys, a scan of profiles on the partner finder, etc. We're talking less than 5%, which I would agree with - on the high side. Are you talking about Ruby's Cafe in IC? I think that's a consensus 12. Regardless - how many of those people "in line" sent the route - or will EVER send the route? If this is your example, it's a very bad one. I think the "isn't anything special" is an illusion, too, created by all the recent multimedia of a few - who are also not necessarily sending routes. Real 12's are hard. The only place it's "not anything special" is in Boulder Canyon and the climbing gym. I've seen a lot of the people above out climbing. I have to say I'm surprised both ways by some of the above posts and claims. slim and Steve, for example, have likely racked up more 12's than 99.9%, yet reported mid 12 as their hardest. slim probably downgraded a 13c to 12c. Steve is solid when you watch him climb the grade and has been actively climbing at it for a long time, yet it's easy to compare him by the #'s to someone who projects the same forever, fails, claims they "lead 5.12" - then goes back to their regular diet of 5.10 routes. Touched a nerve I see......... I suppose the illusion depends on who your peer group is. Hell, I'm just an old fart with a full time job (scientist) and full time responsibilities. Yep, haven't led a 5.10 in years (that I can remember but maybe that's the Alzhiemers setting in). Heck, maybe its your peer group but living in a small town in nowhere's-ville, and most of the people (men and some women) I climb with climb circles around me, and I fumble my way up a couple 5.12 cracks a week.
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Jean Spencer
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Mar 17, 2011
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 230
Question #1. Do you lead climb (trad or sport)? Yes/No YES Question #2. If you lead climb how long have you been lead climbing? TWO YEARS Question #3. Have you ever lead a 5.12 or harder?(gym or outdoors) (trad or sport) Yes/No YES Question #4. If you have lead a 5.12 or harder what was the rating? If you have not what is the hardest rating you lead? 5.12A
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Smokemonkey
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Mar 18, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 5
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Brent Butcher
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Mar 18, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 275
Another major issue is the consistency of grading a climb. Routes put up in the 60's 70's 80's are totally different from routes grades in the 90's and 2000's. A 1970's 5.10 in SOME area's could be considered hard .11. Where as a 5.10 route put up in, let's say the 2000's is nowhere near the same as a 70's 5.10 route, IMHO.
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kachoong
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Mar 18, 2011
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Atlanta, GA
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 180
Year of ascent certainly matters, when you're talking this grade and before the 80's. Wasn't it John Gill who put up the first (now graded) 5.12? I think I remember him writing somewhere of his ascent of The Thimble in 1961 by it's steep face, which is now graded 12.
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Mike Anderson
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Mar 18, 2011
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Nov 2004
· Points: 3,265
JLP wrote: We need an 8a.nu feature here ... I disagree, and hope that you were being sarcastic.
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Phil Lauffen
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Mar 18, 2011
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Innsbruck, AT
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 3,098
Also, the OP asked if you have ever LEAD a 5.12 or harder. This would suggest just getting on one and hanging your way up it would count. Sending is entirely different from leading, folks.
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Phil Lauffen
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Mar 18, 2011
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Innsbruck, AT
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 3,098
I guess I should add my input instead of just fueling the discussion. 1) Yes, both 2) 2.5 years 3) Yes 4) 12a sport (bocan, does that count?) 11- trad
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M Sprague
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Mar 18, 2011
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New England
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 5,090
JLP wrote: Of course, OS is worth more than whacking off at the base - though I think the latter should be worth a few points for at least getting out! Do I get extra points for whacking off at the top?
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Sam Lightner, Jr.
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Mar 18, 2011
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Lander, WY
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 2,732
M Sprague wrote: Do I get extra points for whacking off at the top? Depends... who did you whack off?
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Southern Alex
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Mar 18, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 5
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Dom Caron
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Mar 18, 2011
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Welsford, New Brunswick Canada
· Joined Dec 2007
· Points: 1,370
Yes both 4 years Yes outdoors 5.12c on bolts
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Ryan C.
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Mar 19, 2011
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Woodbury, MN
· Joined Jun 2010
· Points: 10
1. Yes sport 2. One year 3. Yes outdoors 4. 5.12c
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