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Golden Local Opens Another 5.6 in Front Range - UPDATED!!!

Original Post
Jeff Fox · · Delaware, OH · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,320

Area Man Opens Another 5.6 in Front Range—UPDATED
By Amanda Fox

3/14/11 - News link: Still on a tear through CO's easiest sport climbs, an area man opened Left corner in the Front Range area of CO, on Sunday, suggesting 5.6+ for the route. This line is a "second" extension to some other dude's route Left-most Left-Facing Corner and added some non-technical and quite undemanding moves to an existing extension by that other dude's sister Kate.

According to a report by Desnivel.com (in Boulderish), it had been blowing nonstop Saturday, but the 30-foot, janky route, which sits in the West of Denver sector, stayed sheltered. The area man worked it over the weekend, only needing eleven attempts to make the ascent.

He is reportedly focusing on another project in CO called Right-most Crack, a possible 5.7, which sits near even harder projects: Middle Slab (5.7+) and Left-Ramp (5.8-).

This ascent follows his groundbreaking four 5.5 onsights in the span of several weeks.

In RMNP, this dude's friend just put away his project, an as yet unnamed (5.4), which apparently was caught on camera by his roomate's sister on her iPhone, quite by accident.

Dates of ascents: March 12 and 13, 2011

Larry DeAngelo · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Nov 2002 · Points: 5,285

Sounds radical. Glad to hear the monkey is sending:

xtranormal.com/watch/8028015/

Bob Robinson · · Lone Tree, Colorado · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 245

Possibly the funniest thing I will read today. Thanks for posting

~Bob

ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

BEST MP POST IN A LONG, LONG TIME! Thanks for keeping us up to date!

Dr. Ellis D. Funnythoughts · · Evergreen, Co · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 125

is their gonna be a video in the next Reel Rock Tour of the ascent?

Citsalp · · . . . CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 371

The Onion, invades MP.com!

Good stuff, thanks for the smirks.

DFrench · · Cape Ann · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 465

This is why I can't stand the grading game in today's climbing culture.

Just cuz this guy onsighted five 5.5's doesn't give him the requisite platform to go grading something 5.6+.

Like, seriously, what ever happened to 5.5c and 5.5d? This is bullshit if you ask me, he has to do at least eleven 5.5d's before he can even think about calling something 5.6+

I fear for the future of our sport.

Grades aside there is no doubt this dude is CRUSHING. Is there any chance he's the prodigal understudy of Jim Ebert ?

Joe Huggins · · Grand Junction · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 105

Thanks!I was feelin' a little pissy today.The OP and the cartoon were just right.

kuus kuus · · Steamboat Springs · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 535
DFrench wrote: Just cuz this guy onsighted five 5.5's doesn't give him the requisite platform to go grading something 5.6+.
A reasonable point, and I tend to agree, but since none of us will ever climb that hard, it makes it impossible for us to say what's 5.5d and what's 5.6+. I mean, that's truly the realm of the immortal.
Roots · · Wherever I am · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick!

Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!

PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0
Roots wrote:Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick! Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!
http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-un-9a-mas-en-santa-ana

No need to travel--you can do this route next door to you in Santa Ana. Not sure exactly where it is--maybe under the 22 Freeway or in Hart Park?
PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0
Roots wrote:Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick! Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!
http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-un-9a-mas-en-santa-ana

No need to travel--you can do this route next door to you in Santa Ana. Not sure exactly where it is--maybe under the 22 Freeway or in Hart Park?
PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0
Roots wrote:Can I get beta on the specific location? I'm flying out to CO so I can set the new speed record. Of course, my record will be "fastest time by blue eyed, 44yo male, accounting manager, with shaved head from Tustin, California who owns one dog, one cat and drives a grey Ford Ranger 4x4". It's going to be sick! Now you heard it here first....after that send, if I feel the strength, I'll proably hit the +5.7 and the -5.8 so I can hold the speed link up title too!! See you on the cover of Climbing, and R&I soon!!
http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-encadena-un-9a-mas-en-santa-ana

No need to travel--you can do this route next door to you in Santa Ana. Not sure exactly where it is--maybe under the 22 Freeway or in Hart Park?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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