Rumbling Bald, Stn Mtn, Looking glass trip beta

I will be spending 9 days in early march in north carolina looking to climb at those places. Not really looking to climb harder than 5.9+. Never really climbed out there b4 but ive heard of a about 50 must do's so I thought I'd throw a thread up to see what the beta of these areas are.

Thanks guys

Don't hit the Bald on the weekend! Its the easiest way to avoid the masses and possible problems that the small parking lot can create. Get Selected Climbs of NC...it covers all of these places and has enough beta to get you to and up the routes. Don't forget to pack your super chill lead head too...quite a few folks feel that NC should get E grades for routes below 5.10 due to long run outs on easy slabs and edges and lack of placement. Keep an eye on the CCC website and messageboard for the most recent info...I know that the road that has all of the approaches for the Glass is closed right now for repairs and who knows when it'll open back up.
Brad

I posted a similar thread a few months ago and got a good response. mountainproject.com/v/south…

so the road to the glass is currently closed. approach from 276 by sliding rock. Not sure on the legality of long term parking there.

The bald is super busy on weekends, but everyone either boulders or heads to cereal wall. Plenty to be had that isnt crowded. I recommend a pre 9 am start at the lot to garauntee a parking spot.

Stone Mtn. - some people hate it, some people like it, some people keep going back and ask themselves why every time

The list biscuits put up is really good.

Thanks guys, so what would one do about wanting to camp at the glass for a few days since the road is closed. and how would the approach to the south face be

BSU_Zac wrote:Thanks guys, so what would one do about wanting to camp at the glass for a few days since the road is closed. and how would the approach to the south face be

So i believe, dont quote me, that the Davidson Campground at the entrance to Pisgah is free at this time of year. Might want to call up the ranger station to double check that. Plenty designated off the main road camping sites.

The Forest service road is actually closed to all traffic, including foot and bike. Approach to the face is either from 276 by sliding rock which brings you to the north face (add about an hour to hike the cliff to get to the south face) or you can hike the trail to the top and rap down (really really long way).

Hey guys, anyone know why the forest service road is closed/how long it will be closed for? Appreciate it.

I also second the advice to avoid Rumbling Bald on the weekends. All the classic moderate trad routes are swamped during those days. But definitely hit up Fruit Loops(5.7), Granola(5.8+), Frosted Flake(5.9) and Comatose (5.8) if you venture over to Rumbling Bald. Those are the East half classic moderates.

At the Glass, definitely do The Nose and Sundial Crack at the Nose area. If you get to the South Side I would recommend Gemini Crack and Second Coming, both really easy, long cracks.

Have fun.

Looking Glass: Big variety. Do all you can.
South Side: Rat's Ass (5.8) is fantastic and eats up Stoppers.
North Side: The first 2/3's of the first pitch of Safari Jive (5.8) is very very good.
Sun Wall: Titties and Beer (5.9+ in the guide, but really 5.10-) is incredible, but routinely shuts down 5.11 sport climbers

If you can handle run out Stone Mountain slab up to 9+, consider a day trip over to Whitesides. Don't let the aura scare you away. The first pitch of OR is only 5.6 runout slab if you start as far right as possible. The next 8 or so pitches are as well protected as anything can be expected to be with free climbing up to 5.8+ (on the Crescent Pitch). Pitch 4 does have a 5.10 boulder sequence to start, but it is SUPER easily pulled through using a number 3 Camalot off the deck. The 5.11a bolt ladder is a joke if you pull on quickdraws for 3 moves. It's well worth the effort to easily pull through those half dozen moves to do one of the South's biggest walls. Seriously.

Glass road condition update, from Looking Glass Outfitters.

475B aka Headwaters Rd is open to foot and bike traffic. 475 aka Davidson River Rd is closed to ALL traffic. They are hoping to have 475B open to vehicular traffic this weekend after a recon this coming Thursday. They are issuing citations for unauthorized use of 475. You are absolutely allowed to walk up or ride your bike up 475B. For more info call the PNF ranger station at 828-877-3265

rock_fencer wrote:Glass road condition update, from Looking Glass Outfitters. 475B aka Headwaters Rd is open to foot and bike traffic. 475 aka Davidson River Rd is closed to ALL traffic. They are hoping to have 475B open to vehicular traffic this weekend after a recon this coming Thursday. They are issuing citations for unauthorized use of 475. You are absolutely allowed to walk up or ride your bike up 475B. For more info call the PNF ranger station at 828-877-3265

Where would that leave one with camping and parking? I assume that you cannot drive/walk on 475 off of 276 at all? So how do you get to 475b without going on 475...you need to go on 475 in order to get to 475b, right?

csproul wrote:Where would that leave one with camping and parking? I assume that you cannot drive/walk on 475 off of 276 at all? So how do you get to 475b without going on 475...you need to go on 475 in order to get to 475b, right?

475 is open up to the fish hatchery and turnoff for 475B. Right after the Hatchery both gates are locked.

You could still hike in an camp i presume or use the sites off the road.

cheers
T

If you are going to camp at LG, and are willing to walk a bit, the walk from the 475b/276 intersection is shorter, and gains less elevation than if you walk in from the 475b/475 intersection. Still a pain. Heard some jeep guys were caught purposely digging mud pits in 475b when it was soft enough to do so. Thus, they close it when its soft. It just got regraded last spring too.