petzl Tibloc Ascender question
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me and a buddy want to rap down into a cave in the near future and know were going to need ascenders to get back up.i figure a set of tiblocs will work. maybe make a webbing handle? My main concern are the teeth i wont be doing this often and don't aid so i don't want to damage my climbing rope with those little teeth. Will those hurt the rope? |
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Well, the teeth won't "hurt" your rope, but they won't do it any favors. |
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+1 to everything Evan said. |
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Either borrow or purchase used some actually good ascenders and configure your system before you rap into the cave and you will be a lot happier. Tiblocs are strictly for emergencies in my opinion. You'll love the sudden jolt you get when you don't set one correctly and marvel at the shredded rope sheath. That said, I carry a pair in the backcountry and have used them successfully to clear jammed ropes. |
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Just tie a Bachmann to ascend the rope. You probably already have the cord and biner to do so and its just as efficient in ascending, but without the risk of damaging your rope |
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For 1 time I like the Bachman advice above, its a great friction hitch but make sure you back those up with an occasional knot. |
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Yeah, why tibloc when you need to jug? |
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Not to advocate not using the correct equipment, but I'm not sure how serious a venture this is. If it's a short 1 time section I needed to ascend and I didn't have the gear (daisies, entriers, mechanical ascenders) but had a grigri/atc guide (or similar) I'd probably do the following: |
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Several thoughts. |
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Having knott jugged anything before, if you use tiblocs, both of you will never make it out of the cave. |
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John Wilder wrote:The most important thing about using tiblocs (all the other great advice above notwithstanding) is that you use a round-stock carabiner- the Petzl Owall or Attache (not the 3d)- this ensures the device is oriented correctly and wont damage the rope.Good advice. Also, just FYI, in my experience the sharp and hard edges of the holes in the tiblocs tend to leave some gouges in the biner you use. |
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well i am glad i asked instead of just going for it. I think i will learn Larry's system its about 70 ft and that pic is exactly what i was worried about |
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Nice schematic. But I would leave out that foot stirrup. I would put a bend in the rope where the bachmann is for the foot stirrup and just stand on the rope while holding the lower end. Saves gear, time, and you're still using body weight to hoist yourself up. |
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the diagram really helped a lot but i dont understand what the oval biner in the front of ATC guide is for I have an ATC-XP witch doesn't have the front loop. whats the biner up front for? |
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jafrizza wrote:the diagram really helped a lot but i dont understand what the oval biner in the front of ATC guide is for I have an ATC-XP witch doesn't have the front loop. whats the biner up front for?Setting up the ATC guide in auto-bloc mode requires two biners. The one that attaches the atc to your harness and the other that captures the rope within the system and locks up. You cannot do the Larry's method with an ATC XP becuase it doesn't have the guide mode option. Evan |
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jafrizza wrote:the diagram really helped a lot but i dont understand what the oval biner in the front of ATC guide is for I have an ATC-XP witch doesn't have the front loop. whats the biner up front for?Check out the video here. You'd be doing the same way, but rather than rigged to an anchor, the rope is fixed and the ATC is rigged like that to you (but upside down). |
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Cool thanks for all the info guys |
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alpineinstitute.blogspot.co…
This is pretty nifty, its a pretty simple ascender setup, especially combined with either prusik, bachman, or a kleimheist (spelling, sorry) above the device. i especially like the idea of an extended repel device. ive never tried it before, but in about 10 minutes ill be in a tree giving it a shot. let you know how it goes jafrizza |
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yup, so out of a tree, the length on the device set for rap doesnt really do it for me, but i look forward to trying it on a longer rap. as for the ascend set up, its suuuuper easy and works very well. very well. i quickly learned that the stirrup, set above the device, works better when its a bit longer. after tying a 4 bight (would you call that a bight? i dunno) kleimheist, i slid the knot almost at full reach above my head, then i held my knee a little less than 90 degrees, and tied the stirrup. bam. leverage was good. the only problem i ran into was the pull, it was a pain getting the device set again for the reset. which looking back on larrys bamf drawing (seriously larry, who sets about drawing diagrams for us noobs to try and replicate in the tree out front? only the most bad ass dude named larry on this forum, thats who! :-D. double props for the gri gri AND ATC guide double diagram. you effing rock larry.) i can see the benefit of the setup there to pull, and reset the setup. its dark now, but i will have to try this setup tomorrow with larrys method and see how that works. The rope i used is suppper stiff to though. that and it was doubled in the device because i was in a hurry and just flung a sling around a branch, opposite and opposed 2 ovals and threw the rope through. |