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N Face of Animas Mountain (in Noname Creek Basin)

Original Post
Nic Harnish · · Durango, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 615

I need some photos of this mountain's north face if any one has any. It's certainly one of the bigger faces in the San Juans and there is one ascent on the east side of the face on the Ominous Pillar (AAJ). I would like to more but my beta is limited. any help greatly appreciated.

Jason Kaplan · · Glenwood ,Co · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 3,370

Seems to me, when it comes to climbing in the san juans beta could be the least of your concerns. If you really want to climb that stuff just go do it cause nothing is clean or classic, just pure adventure choss climbing. Storm King looks sick, but when you read about the route that has been climbed it becomes less desirable. Especially when you consider how much work is involved to make an ascent of any of those big faces down there.

Dare to dream but atleast be reaslistic about what your going to get into.(that is if your not already in the know)

Matthias Holladay · · On the Road...Looking for a… · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 7,494

There is a lot of FA potential on these faces and more. Yes, a big approach for big pleasure. These north faces mentioned have been climbed a few times, mostly by Outward Bound staff, and the rock is not that bad. But, for truly amazing new routes try the south faces of Graystone Peak and Point 13,404, as well as the east Trinity Peak. Clean Quartz!
As for Animas Mtn., I have a foto on my M.P. page.

Matt Pickren · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 769

I've climbed Animas from the SE and looked down on it's North face. I have seen what I think is your Ominous Pilar from above and it looks amazingly clean and proud. I've also hiked under it via Noname Creek multiple times. It is harder to make out from below. The rock is actually quite good. (I would like to respectfully say that Mr. Kaplan is flawlessly incorrect of the rock quality). I would highly recommend the West face of Knife Point as well. It is sheer and surprisingly clean. Most of the peaks in the Grenediers have LOTS of potential. As for pictures, I dont have any that show it close up. Hike in there are check it out for yourself. 3 hours from Needleton, all on trails. Hopefully this insight was actually helpful. Good luck.

Jason Kaplan · · Glenwood ,Co · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 3,370

Guess I'm a moron, sorry for trying. Thanks for the personal attacks, that was really called for. Take it from the expert I don't know shit and my response was uncalled for. Atleast now you are getting some responses after being ignored for 4 days... Glad to be a scapegoat and get the ball rolling for ya.

Thanks Matt, I'm really starting to enjoy your insight... Seems there is a trend forming in relation to our interaction here on MP, I give opinions and you put me in my rookie ass place. Feels real good on my end, and I'm sure it feels great for your ego.

Nic Harnish · · Durango, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 615

Sorry kaplan but he's right. I've climbed all over the grenadiers and the quartzsite for the most part is perfect though runnout. The grenadiers are strange in that fashion opposed to the surrounding ranges which truely are grungy, but that's just part of the fun. People willing to brave the crappy rock get the first ascents, that's just the name of the game. I'm sorry you feel offended, I don't think anyone meant to "attack" you, it is just a forum by the way. and thank you, others, for the info. Matt, speaking of great potential in the grenadiers, if you haven't been to the east grenadiers (Silex, Guardian, Storm King), the FA potential is great. A friend an I put up a 1600-1700ft line on the N Face of the Silex last year with mostly superb rock. I've also attempted a route on the Guardian but was shut down by storms, also very good rock (in some places veggy filled crakcs).

bjp · · durango · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 10

from Rosebrough's out-of-print classic (The San Juan Mountains: A Climbing and Hiking Guide),

Animas Mountain (13,786 feet) -- North Couloir -- In the October 1960 issue of Trail and Timberline , William E. Davis described a climb "just west of the magnificent gendarme visible from Noname Creek. Before becoming hopelessly cliffed in at the head of the couloir, leave the snow and swing right (west) onto the ledges. These go directly upward to the summit. Rope, ice ax, and pitons are necessary."

Animas is a good looking hunk of rock. All these hills are made of pretty good rock, despite being in the San Juans.

-ben

Bob Dergay · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 101

For kaplan....

butthurt o ramma
sorry, couldn't resist...

Matthias Holladay · · On the Road...Looking for a… · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 7,494

Bob, you must be one crazy guy! and yes to you all, the potential on pretty clean rock here is plentiful...especially some of the north faces. Here's the gendarme bjp mentioned:

Dave Shotwell looking up at our line of ascent...

Mut Adelman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0

Bob,
Go easy on the Roaring Fork Valley folk. We don't get too much climbing in so we are a little soft.

Kevin Sainio · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 480
Jason Kaplan wrote:If you really want to climb that stuff just go do it cause nothing is clean or classic, just pure adventure choss climbing. Storm King looks sick, but when you read about the route that has been climbed it becomes less desirable. Especially when you consider how much work is involved to make an ascent of any of those big faces down there.
Jason,

I totally agree with you. The climbing here is total junk. Not one decent piece of rock anywhere. Nothing. For some reason, there has been these rumors spreading amongst the climbing community that there are peaks worth climbing in the San Juans. With your help, we can stop these rumors ;)
Ray Hellinger · · Gunnison, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 350

Definitely lots of potential up there, but to be honest, you'll never know for sure what has truly been done.....but who cares? It will at least FEEL like an FA....and really....that's all that matters (i.e. adventure). As someone stated, LOTS of stuff was climbed by Outward Bound guys WAY back in the 70/80's that was never reported. I would definitely hesitate on calling anything done on Storm King/Silex/Guardian as an FA. If it was a somewhat obvious "line" then there is a good chance it was done. Those OB guys climbed the shit out that area. As for quality of rock.....no the San Juans do not have "great" rock (Grenadiers excluded), but that is part of the appeal. Anyone who has fallen in love with the climbing in the Black Canyon can attest to the desire for routes that are not necessarily "clean and solid". "Quality" is in the eye of the beholder. If you want splitter cracks with monotonous climbing then don't climb here....if you want adventure and uncertainty?....we got it. After climbing the East Face of Monitor (which is all part of the same uplift as Animas Mtn) I would say that climbing anything steep and technical on the NF of Animas would surely fall in the adventure category. Its not clean, its loose, it runout, lines are not obvious.....i.e.....fun. ;-) Its all about accepting it for what it is and not wishing for it to be different.

Ray Hellinger · · Gunnison, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 350

BTW, if you want a truly amazing climb in the Grenadiers...hike/ski to the NF of the Guardian in May (earlier the better). Take your ice tools and enjoy approx 1500ft of stellar M5 climbing up the obvious chimney. One of the best mixed lines I've ever done. The TRUE potential in the San Juans is winter ascents. Wham Ridge in winter.....THAT was intense. ;-)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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