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Best adjustable daisy? Petzl Quick Fix, Yates adjustable or Metolius Easy Daisy?

Original Post
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

Awhile back someone showed me a faster way to climb aid without using traditional style daisys. Basically I will just copy and paste this over from another post as it perfectly explains this new way I learned:

Requires:

  • Two ladders
  • One adjustable daisy
  • One quickdraw (or short loop, girth hitched) at the waist.


Starting from the ground:

  • Place piece
  • Clip ladder to piece
  • Clip adjustable daisy to ladder
  • Climb up ladder until piece is at your waist (optionally tightening daisy if desire)
  • Clip quickdraw into piece, hang on that sucker
  • Top step as desired
  • Place high new piece
  • Clip other ladder to new piece
  • Clip adjustable daisy (now available, since you are hanging on the draw) to high ladder
  • Test piece as desired. If it blows, you won't lose the ladder since it is connected by the adjustable daisy. And odds are you are still clipped into the last piece with your waist quickdraw, so you aren't taking a fall.
  • Transition to new piece+ladder - unclipping your waist quickdraw if you haven't already.
  • Retrieve old ladder, clip rope in behind you (if you haven't already)
  • Continue

mountainproject.com/...ig_n…

So what is the best adjustable to use? I used the Yates when I first tried this. Not bad but its a bit heavy and I mainly climb C1 - C2 stuff, nothing too serious. I have been looking into the Metolius Easy Daisy as it seems easy to extend. But I have heard really bad things about it. So whats your take?
Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

I've used the Petzel and Metolius versions quite a bit, and they both have drawbacks. A combo of the two would be best. The Metolius is much easier to use in that it snugs up easier and extends with one hand. I like that the Petzl ones use much thinner material, so they are lower profile when they're not being used. For actual aid climbing, the Metolius ones would probably be best because they are not going to be packed away, and you can extend and shorten them very easily. For my uses (mostly jugging, then packed away while free climbing), I prefer the Petzl because they take up less space in the pack.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,769

If you make some adjustable daisies with CAMP Lift ascenders and ice floss, there are less tangles since the cord can rotate in the device instead of twisting the way flat webbing does.
An additional benefit: use the Lift in a 2:1 Chongo-style haul system when you finish the pitch.

Zac Cromwell · · Lakewood, CA. · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 20

Yates of Fish.

You can't release the Metolius Easy Daisy while under load. Just this drawback is a deal breaker for me. Also the rating on it sucks... Not to mention that Russ from Fish and John from Yates are both awesome people and everything they make is 100% American made. Well 99% for Yates, Fernando works there and he says he's the 1%... that's a joke by the way ;)

Zac

J. Thompson · · denver, co · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,425

..and that system is faster, how?
...and requires an ADJ daisy why?

Seems to me you could use the exact same system, with a standard daisy and a fifi. Thus eliminating the added movement of an ADJ. and the quick draw. Or just use 2 standard daisies and 2 aiders adn eliminate a ton of movement all together.

josh

Erik W · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 280

If money wasn't an option, Kate's USHBA setup and Gregger's CAMP setup are the slickest looking rigs around. Like seriously the next evolution of daisy-ing. Even with money into the equation, over the course of multiple walls, the added efficiency just makes that system so much better than what's currently out there.

As for the existing daisies on the market, I've used the Metolius and Yates. Both have their pros/cons of course. Metolius snug nice and tight and don't budge when daisy bouncing a piece. They are also quicker to release. And while you can't extend them when fully loaded, I've extended mine while top stepping and leading traverses countless times (yes, without bouncing, it just takes some finess). Yates rock at simplicity and adjust easier while weighted (both good and bad). Ratings on either shouldn't come into the decision making process.... unless you're hoping for them to hold a FF2 when your upper piece blows (remember, these suckers are static... which means you actually want them to break if take relatively long fall on them).

Lastly, the system you described seems substantially slower than the regular 2 daisy method. The steps of clipping, unclipping, and reclipping your one daisy are all eliminated with a 2 daisy method. It's all about speed.

[EDIT TO ADD: Gregger, did you ever get around to doing drop tests on the CAMP Lifts in the orientation you use them in for the setup?]

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,769

Drop tests:
Nope, I didn't.
I'll be getting in aid training mode in the next few weeks, so I'll try to remember to do that and get back to you.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,769

[sorry for the hijack]

Drop test = check.

Did three cam hook moves in a row on overhanging terrain. Medium-sized inverted, marginal, then buried in suspect rock. I was hanging on the suspect rock hook when the rock blew out. I had loosened up my adjustable on the lower hook already. 2' daisy fall bent the lower hook pretty good. Loose top rope backup kept me off the ground.
The adjustable daisy worked - the ice floss didn't break, the CAMP Lift didn't break, and I didn't break.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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