Emergency Gear

Peter Pitocchi wrote:What can you do with a Tibloc that you can't do (maybe slower) with a prusic? Also I carry compass/lighter/tape, no first aid kit.

For that matter...what can you do with dedicated prussic cord that you can't do with slings and/or the cord you carry to build anchors?

Peter Pitocchi wrote:What can you do with a Tibloc that you can't do (maybe slower) with a prusic?

Ascend a frozen rope; those teeth are key. [Can it be done with a prussic?... yes, technically, but if you've ever used a frozen prussic on a frozen rope before, you've discovered that it takes a ton of stamina to move just a short distance... loosen the frozen prussic, slide it up the frozen rope, somehow get it to bite down again on what has essentially become a frozen pole, all while balancing in the stirrup of your other frozen prussic, which you swear is sliding. Repeat. Come emergency time, you might not have the stamina in reserve to pull that sequence off again and again.]

I like the std stuff + 1 for Mr Erik W's comments on prussics
some webbing a tibloc and a ropeman ,headlamp and plenty of lighters
couple cheepo quicklinks and skip the prussics some duct tape and a cheepo walmart tube tent it dont weigh shit and packs all of the above in the plastic pouch it comes in OH YEA TOILET PAPER !all together everything weighs in at just a RCH over a pound. I have a cord a let so I can cut it up if need be also.I don't bother with aspare belay device as a Muntner sp? hitch works just as well.

I don't bother with a 1st aid kit as there are plenty of clothes to cut up to stop your bleeding, splint ya up or wipe your ass w/ if you have the shits and forget the most important item the 1st essential of the 10 essentials "TOILET PAPER".so id rather use that weight for more important things Like a couple spare snickers bars and some water .

If im going alpine I add to the above an Esbit stove + Ti pot some hand warmers , emergency bivy sack + light wind shell jacket and pants. All this takes into consideration Im wearing my soft shells + base layers and carying my light weight Montbel belay parka in my pack.

This gear has served me well over the years.

Usually I plan on carrying some extra webbing/biners. Then I forget to actually bring them along.

No e-gear substitutes for climbing efficiently and smart.

Peter Pitocchi wrote:What can you do with a Tibloc that you can't do (maybe slower) with a prusic? Also I carry compass/lighter/tape, no first aid kit.

Is the compass so you know which way is up and down? totally reasonable.

I generally carry an extra set of titanium testicles (light weight) and an expedition dome tent for unexpected bivys, and a quilt for smoke signals.

Tiny backpack has lightweight shell, long underwear shirt, balaclava, emergency blanket, first aid kit including matches, and a few candies in with the pills. TP, 2 headlamps, usually cell phone, guidebook or route sheets, bail webbing, water, food. The pack protects spine in a fall.

On harness: tiblock, 2 cordalettes, bail biner, a few bail nuts, knife, rap rings, whistle ('though hasn't been very useful). Also a few lockers & free biners, spare belay device (autoblocking), tape, rappel back up loop/biner.

Often climb with 60m skinny rap line trailed or packed.

Some of this stuff is for when partner doesn't have what they should.

I get laughed at during the day, but never after dark or in the rain/snow.

When things get tough for me, thank goodness for my Easy Button

hardcover version of freedom of the hills, a portable gas generator, and roadside flares

I have an "oh shit biner" that I add to my harness whenever I go adventure climbing. It's an old locking biner that I don't mind leaving, and on it I usually keep: 10ft of webbing, 10ft of cord, a couple aluminum rap rings, and a small serrated knife. I leaned my lesson a few years ago during my first epic retreat in a snow storm. I din't have any bail gear and ended up leaving several of my expensive sewn runners. Ugh.

I also pretty much always have small Cannon Powershot clipped to the back of my harness, with a couple extra batteries in the camera case. My headlamp takes the same size batteries as the camera, so that means I always have extra batteries for the headlamp.

If I ever buy a new chalkbag I'm going to get one that has a zipper pocket and always keep a couple chemical warmers in there for those chilly belays or accidental bivys. I should really get on that one, because I can think of MANY times I've wished I had some chemical warmers on me.

6 pack of PBR.

Mike Willig wrote:6 pack of PBR.

I understand that there is safety in going "light and fast", but I think it's better to error on the side of caution and bring a full case of 24.

What's wrong with this picture? Saw this guy and lots of folks yelling suggestions. My question was, "Would you know what to do with some prussiks if you had them?" He said "yes" and I passed this along to the rescuers and left.

My harness always has 2 prussiks. (Always.) His didn't and it cost him a good half hour +.

I've had mixed results with this technique...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0uhzfYrx8s

rob bauer wrote:What's wrong with this picture? Saw this guy and lots of folks yelling suggestions. My question was, "Would you know what to do with some prussiks if you had them?" He said "yes" and I passed this along to the rescuers and left. My harness always has 2 prussiks. (Always.) His didn't and it cost him a good half hour +.

What are you going to be able to do in this scenario with two prussiks that you can't do by just using your feet and getting pulled/pulling yourself with the toprope? Do you carry runners to use to stand up with too? (no offense meant, I just am not seeing how having two prussiks on your harness is going to help that much). Can you explain?

rob bauer wrote:What's wrong with this picture? Saw this guy and lots of folks yelling suggestions. My question was, "Would you know what to do with some prussiks if you had them?" He said "yes" and I passed this along to the rescuers and left. My harness always has 2 prussiks. (Always.) His didn't and it cost him a good half hour +.

the belayer could have solved that whole mess with a simple inline up-haul, or as David said, just capture any slack if the climber would just use their feet, it's not like they are hanging in free-space.

For emergencies of all sorts...

Seriously...

Sharp Knife in one pocket
Lighter in another pocket
Headlamp with fresh batteries around neck (Freaks out the safety nerds.)

You have a rack.
Presumably you also have a rope, slingas, couple lockers, and a belay device.
Use what you have.

Cut up cordalette and sacrifice biners to bail off of a couple stoppers or whatever.
Ascend with slings or chalkbag chord if desperate.

Light is right.

John Maguire wrote:I've had mixed results with this technique... youtube.com/watch?v=u0uhzfY…

Seems kind of ballsy to try to catch a flying ice tool!

Tibloc, autoblock loop, a small knife, and a itty bitty headlamp.

BirminghamBen wrote:For emergencies of all sorts...

Do you rack that mossy on your harness or do you have the shoulder sling?

On my harness every-time I climb outside:
Extra Locker
pair of prussiks
rescue prussiks
rap ring
Spiderco blunt nose rescue knife
Whistle

on multi-pitch I'll grab I few more things from my pack or I'll just climb with it depending on the weather/climb/location.

in my bag:
Wilderness first aid kit
Headlamp
trailmix/ meal bar
water
knotted slings
quick links
lighter and matches