'standard rack' question...

For the NRG, I would double up in small sizes. In particular, having BOTH a .3 camalot and a blue metolius, and a .4 camalot and a yellow metolius is pretty nice, especially after you tick off all the New's classic cracks and start venturing out onto traditional face climbs.

The cord and some webbing will be useful at places like Bridge where the FAs never placed permanent anchors and no one has since. Just make sure you check the guide book before hoping on some of the more obscure easy routes...

Here's my list. If I think of more I'll post them up. Unless noted most of these will go fine with what you have listed as your rack

At Fern Buttress:

Ritz Cracker (5.9) **** The second pitch is the "hard" part but it's short and quick with some slick feet. It's a great splitter to a ledge then you traverse right to a short orange corner. I almost always do this when I'm in the area. I love the climbing and love the view from the top.

Star Trek Wall*** (5.4-5.8) I didn't enjoy it but there are plenty of short easy routes to run up that get good ratings. You have to climb a quick route to a ledge to access the others but there's a good range of decent climbs there to get experience.

Springboard**** (5.10a) The crux is right off the ground. The top is sustained. This is an area classic and a solid 5.10 for when you get psyched.

Hysteria** (5.8) Haven't done it but heard good things

S&M** (5.9) I thought this was a good route. Solid for the grade. If you sew it up you'll find yourself without hand holds. It's a good lesson in placing adequate but not too much gear. Fun corner.

At Endless Wall:

What a Jam** (5.9) I thought this route was an exceptional hidden gem. Good jams in a flake corner. Might want to take a piece of webbing. Easy for the grade.

Grafenburg Crack** and Dr Ruths Variation** (5.9 and 5.8) Good climbing, maybe a bit heady for the new leader though.

Doce Doe*** (5.6) Do the first pitch of this route and it's 5.6. Really good first lead because it's easy and it'll let you play with the gear to get it right. It takes tons of gear but lots of it can be subpar if not placed correctly. Highly recommended.

Fantasy Crack**** (5.8) Ok this is the area classic. If you can get out from under the roof you'll be good to the anchors. Place a number four under the roof for getting off the ground. Wiggling out from under the roof is the crux so don't get discouraged by it.

Voyeur Variation**** (5.10a) Don't dismiss this one because it's 5.10. The 5.10 part is protected by bolts and an excellent piece of gear over your head. Goes up two bolts then pulls out from under a roof with good gear into a beautiful layback/stemming dihedral that eats gear. This is an all time favorite of mine and I love doing it for a warm up. Right next to Glass Onion. Highly recommended.

Biohazard**.5 (5.8+) If you climb to the first anchors this goes at 5.8+ Good route for what it is. Do it if you're in the area of Exoduster.

Pre-marital Bliss**** & Autumn Fire*** (5.10a&b) The only reason I included these two are because they are historically graded 5.9. Premarital bliss is a serious lead with potential consequences. I've cleaned peoples bail set ups on more than on occasion. Autumn fire is good, solid for the grade.

Beauty Mountain:

Brain Wave** and Journey to the Center of the Brain** (5.7) I didn't like these routes but they're a good lesson on weird placements I thought. Do them if you're bored?

Happy Hands**** (5.9) I thought this was easy for the grade. Lots of big jugs, good gear, and minimal jamming required if I remember correctly. Good route, soft for the grade.

Do Burning Calves*** if you're feeling solid on gear and Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam****/Spider Wand**** if you like awkward ridiculous corners and being scrunched.

Super Crack**** (5.9) Stellar route, the crux is at the top. Getting through the first 15 feet can be awkward, then it's cruising, then the top starts to steepen up a bit. Do this after you get your head straight for a good lead at the grade. Oh, save a #1 for the top, seriously.

Bridge:

I don't climb too many moderates here but there are tons of classics and what seem like good easy routes

Midnight Moonlight** (5.7)
Quantum meruit** (5.4)

Dairy Area* (5.4) I think my buddy took me out to do this one for a first trad lead. I hated it, thought it was awkward, and scary. Hopfenperle Special was way better and way more relaxed

Hopfenperle Special** (5.7) Fun and laid back for the grade I thought

Beginners Only*** (5.7) Good route to start on, I still enjoy putting this up for beginners

Where Real Men Dare** (5.8) This one will make you question why you're climbing it. If you feel super solid go for it, otherwise don't. The upper crux can be exciting, especially for 5.8.

Easily Flakey*** (5.7) Get some "runout" experience and learn how to manage your rope drag on this classic. Hit it during a weekday.

Zag**** (5.8) This is a great route and you'll probably make it harder than it is unless your crack climbing skills are honed. Good gear though.

Junkyard:

Ann's Revenge* (5.8) Not a bad lead at all, a little ledgy and dirty though

Four Sheets to the Wind**** (5.9) The most classic 5.9 ever. Place good gear and be careful to sling everything accordingly. This thing is notorious for having fixed gear because something walked or someone way overcammed a piece. Make smart moves through the roofs, place pro from good stances and you'll be fine. Also, take a few double length runners.

New Yosemite**** (5.9) The crux is the bulge, two each of 1s and 2s will be fine and a few smaller pieces after the ledge for the top. Learn to jam and use your feet correctly in cracks here.

Jumping Jack Flash* (5.7) Awkward and fun. Protects well but can be dirty because it's in the low corner where all the rain water washes down.

New River Gunks** (5.7) Over-rated in my opinion but do it if you can get on it.

Bubba City:

Normally most people think of this place as sport only, but there are some good moderate trad leads here too that I highly recommend.

Prickly Bubba* (5.6) Ok this one I don't highly recommend but it was worth doing while I was there and bored. The top was kind of run out for the grade.

Smoking Crack** (5.8) This is actually bolted, but easily done as a mixed route. I clipped the last bolt so I wouldn't have heinous rope drag. Do it on gear seriously.

Tasty Flake*** (5.8) Really enjoy this climb. Good lesson on stemming and finger lock flakes. Scooting your ass onto the top to the anchors may make you squeal. Good for sure though.

Bedtime for Bubba*** (5.9) Easy for the grade in my opinion. Very fun and relaxed as long as you keep moving your feet.

Basic Bubba Crack** (5.9) If you're psyched on learning offwidth go for it. This one has made plenty of people scream. Take two 4's and a 5 at the very least.

Sam that was an excellent post, you have no idea how much I appreciate all that info! If you were near by I would definitely buy you a beer for that one lol. Its funny that you mentioned New Yosemite and the doubles it requires because thats the exact route I had in mind when deciding what sizes to double up on first.

Sure thing. If you don't already have it pick up the new NRG guidebook by Mike Williams. It is absolutely indispensable and way better than Caters book.

Sam Stephens wrote:Sure thing. If you don't already have it pick up the new NRG guidebook by Mike Williams. It is absolutely indispensable and way better than Caters book.

sam, you've gotta climb hysteria man, excellent route, do that and then night moves right before star trek wall, both realy good

Getting to that end of Fern is rare for me. I've got some stuff out there that I need to hop back on (Grand Space) so I may check them out for warm ups next time I'm there. It's really easy to gloss over some stuff without thinking twice.