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Crestone/Kit Carson Access/Strategy?

Original Post
Tom Fralich · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

I'm hoping to do The Prow on Kit Carson and Ellingwood Ledges on Crestone this July. I've been reading approach/route descriptions and there seem to be some access issues. What is the best strategy for climbing these routes? Is there a common base camp that can be used (possibly S Colony Lake)? Or is it better to do Crestone from S Colony and then do Kit Carson from Spanish Creek? Is Spanish Creek actually legal with permission from the monastery? Thanks...I'm having trouble sifting through lots of inaccurate and possibly outdated info on this and other sites.

Stephen Carlos Rydalch · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 45

>> Or is it better to do Crestone from S Colony and then do Kit Carson from Spanish Creek?

Spanish Creek is the best place to climb the prow from, but a high camp at S Colony will give you access to both climbs. If you're planning to do both routes a base camp high on South Colony lake would be ideal.

If you are heading back to town between climbs then do Elingwood from S Colony and then drive over to Spanish Creek for the prow.

>> Is Spanish Creek actually legal with permission from the monastery?

We simply stopped and asked the monastery permission to cross their land. This was in October 2010. They were very kind about the whole thing and only wanted us to leave their irrigation systems alone, which are near the trailhead.

The man we spoke to even pointed out that the idea of owning land is not in line with their Buddhist beliefs, and therefore not something they bother enforcing. They did however tell us they appreciated us stopping in to ask. I imagine forest service officials would have a different viewpoint.

Hope that helps!

Ryan Marsters · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,431

I think a high camp at S. Colony Lake would also be very reasonable. I've heard of people doing it both ways, but it seems easiest (if you're to combine the climbs) to use the same camp - you don't have to spend as much time on the approaches (ascending/descending both S. Colony and Spanish), you cut out several hours of driving (even taking a 4WD pass) and you get to stay away from the mosquitos on the west side. Idealy, a car shuttle would be great.

South Colony Lake is near the start of the ledges already and you can head up the Humboldt trail, scramble over to the Bear's Playground, and then get to the Prow with a bit of route-finding/talus-hopping/mild scrambling.

If it were me, I would head up S. Colony on Day 1, climb the ledges on Day 2 and move a light bivy camp to Spanish by hiking through Bear's Playground, climb the Prow on Day 3, then pack out via S. Colony (reclimbing up to Bear's Playground) the next day.

The Spanish Creek Trail is "closed," but nobody enforces it if you park correctly and act respectfully. There have been instances of vandalism, though and some of the townspeople aren't very happy with climbers (the whole current Kit Carson name change thing). However, I've always found them to be extremely nice and accommodating. The trail isn't maintained but still easy enough route-finding.

Mike McMahon · · Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 940

Maybe I just enjoy hiking...
I approached the Prow from S. Colony Lake and the Ellingwood Arete from Spanish Creek.

I think the most pleasant approach is up Cottonwood Creek to the south of the Crestones... but that's really out of the way.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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