Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Jim Bridwell, 1970
Page Views: 4,466 total · 22/month
Shared By: Sirius on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This pitch is a fun and somewhat physical option for those who reach the top of Reed's Direct p2 and still want more - but not quite as much as Reed's 3rd pitch offers.

Fire up steep double cracks at the back of a shallow 'chimney' to pull onto a sloping ledge. These cracks will alternately take knees, fists, armbars, and handstacks - the shallow chimney provides infinite no hands rests with the right body language. Before you turn right onto the sloping ledge, gaze at the continuation of the left crack: a hard looking and overhung offwidth.

From the sloping ledge follow the nice crack as it curves up to a roof, which is easily pulled on the featured granite that abounds here.

A great pitch if you're looking for relatively tame, well protected, and non-sustained semi-wide climbing.

Location Suggest change

From the long ledge at the top of Reed's Direct second pitch, walk right until the end of the ledge. Clip in to the anchor/rap station here and climb the twin wide-ish cracks that are in front of your nose.

Protection Suggest change

Up to the 3.5 or 4"

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