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A  tip if your partner is a little squimish about following the opening traverse moves on p4.   <br />Once you finish leading the pitch: Pull up all the rope and put your partner on belay like normal.  Untie and lower down your end of the rope.  Your partner can then tie in on a bite with a locker (that way they can ditch that rope after the traverse) and be on top rope for the first traverse, just like climbin on doubles. No giant pendulum, and one happy partner :)  <br />

Id# 107025392,  Dimensions: 2000 x 1500 - View full size 

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By slim
Administrator
Jan 30, 2011

This is a really handy tip for climbing at places like Lumpy, etc. where you (and your second) often have to slab/face traverse to link up with another crack. Just because you only have one rope, doesn't always mean you can't use it like you are climbing on doubles!

By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Jan 31, 2011

I saw you guys setting that up yesterday, and was initially perplexed. Then all became apparent. Nice lead by the way.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011

Where were you, Mike? Did you get out climbing, or just out on patrol? Kinda chily out yesterday.

By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Jan 31, 2011

I was out on patrol, I figured I'd take a quick run up to Sunshine Wall and back, since there was a car in the lot (yours I'm guessing). Yeah, it was a chilly day for climbing but great for hiking up that hill.

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A tip if your partner is a little squimish about following the opening traverse moves on p4.
Once you finish leading the pitch: Pull up all the rope and put your partner on belay like normal. Untie and lower down your end of the rope. Your partner can then tie in on a bite with a locker (that way they can ditch that rope after the traverse) and be on top rope for the first traverse, just like climbin on doubles. No giant pendulum, and one happy partner :)

Submitted By: Monty on Jan 30, 2011
On this route:
Standard Route (5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c R )