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MicroPuff vs. Das-Belay Jacket

Original Post
Jace Mullen · · Oceanside, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

So I think Patagucci stopped making them for the season, but its winter so I am going to be saving up for a new jacket.

So currently I have a WM flash hoody, that I really like. Unfortunatly I am constantly worried about tearing it/ getting it wet. Therefore I am looking for a synth jacket that I can use as a belay jacket, or when it gets really cold, something I could possibly climb in without worrying about destroying.

I will be using it mostly in the Socal Mountains and on some Sierra Climbs.

The benefits of the micropuff hoody are that Its lighter, and that I should be able to hang it off of my harness and it is less bulky.

The DAS is warmer and designed as a belay parka. However it seems (correct me if I am wrong) that it would be too bulky to climb with/ hang off of my harness.

I wear a size Med in the Ascentionist Jacket, but if I am not wearing THAT bulky of clothes should I get the Med or the Lg?

Also, I will probably end up bringing my Flash jacket because it weighs 9oz and will serve really well as a backup for an unplanned bivy.

So should I get the Micropuff Hoody or the DAS hoody? I am leaning towards the Micropuff just because it is cheaper but I don't want to end up regretting it.

Thoughts?

Kevin Connolly · · CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

two totally different things. buy both.

Adam Bunger · · Someplace in the Northeast · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,025

The DAS likely is warmer, I dont own one, but I take my Micropuff everywhere and it's never let me down.

Kevin Flowers · · Granby, CT · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 0

I tend to agree with Kevin C. Both are great jackets and both have their own niche. It really all depends on what you're climbing. People do climb with the DAS on their harness, but it is pretty bulky. It would be difficult to climb with the DAS on but the Micro might be doable.

The micropuff is on-sale at Patagonia right now for $160, so if they've got your size I'd pick one up. patagonia.com/us/product/pa…

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

micropuff ... on sale, and you can wear it around town as well

get a proper belay parka when it goes on sale ...

Jace Mullen · · Oceanside, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

They have the large on sale but no medium. So should I just grab the large to fi over my medium ascentionist or would it then be too baggy to wear on its lonesome or under the ascentionist? I am going to try to find the medium somewhere on sale I think, but I am not sure yet.

jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230

I climbed, I think, the entire Exum Ridge with my DAS on so it's not too bulky to climb in. It's annoyingly bulky for the harness but it's warm. The Micro Puff is a little less bulky so it's almost like a sweater. It's also cheaper. If you need something to really keep you warm go with the DAS. I don't find the Micro Puff good for much below thirty. Some of it depends on how warm your engine runs.

Adam Peters · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 700

buy both...I just got that micro-puff and it's excellent to take on route and even climb in, but for really cold sitting-around-camp-and-doing-nothing-situations it would be a little too light. Also, I was really surprised to find that a small was my size this year in the patagonia stuff. Seems lie every other year or so they tweak their sizes...I used to wear a medium or sometimes a large.

G Owings · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

I'd go with the micropuff first, but pick up a DAS as funds allow; particularly if you are considering carrying your Flash anyway. The DAS's that I've used are cut belay style, as in I'm a L and a L DAS layers over my action suit nicely. They do seem to change their sizes relatively frequently though.
Incidentally I usually climb with a light leader pack (Golite Ion--10oz.) instead of hanging a puffy off the harness. Depends on your taste and type of climb etc.

Tosch Roy · · Bend · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 45

I would buy a medium. I also fit into a medium Ascentionist and a medium DAS fits over it nicely. I would probably be swimming in large DAS.

I've never owned a micropuff but last time I checked the DAS was supposed to be the warmest synthetic that patagonia makes. If your WM Flash isn't warm enough, skip the micropuff and get the DAS for sure.

aviarome · · Yarmouth, ME · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

I just picked up a Micropuff hoody. I usually wear all mediums, so I got a medium in the Micropuff hoody. But I think this version is sized slimmer. The medium DAS fits great over my layers, and jacket, but the Micropuff hoody is slimmer and I can't fit it over those same layers. Considering this, I recommend going large in Micropuff hoody, and medium in DAS.

Chris90 · · Unity, Maine · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

I have the DAS and use it often. It is a solid belay parka

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

Another thought on something similar...

coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

Jay Z · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

you should also look in to the Mont Bell Ultralight Thermawrap Insulation Parka its only 12oz and still warm enough to be a belay parka or a climb jacket

backcountry.com/montbell-ul…

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

Therma wrap is a 100g Primaloft vs 80/60 fill. Good garment. The Atom LT is a 60 with polartec side panels. Closer than most but still different animals. Heavy sweater (that breathes) verses ltw jacket that is more wind resistant and doesn't breath as well.

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155

If it's really cold <30 I have the DAS and I like it a lot. Very warm, I have not climbed in it yet though although it does seem possible. It packs down to larger than the below combo though so it is kind of bulky.

If it's windy and 30-50ish (a lot of my climbing lately at red rocks) I've been wearing a combination of a thin synthetic base layer, R1 hoody, and a mountain hardware windstopper tech jacket. It's super easy to climb in, the jacket has pit zips for when you're climbing and it's windstopper which makes a huge difference for me. It's usually not the cold that gets me on it's own it's the wind. I've been very comfortable with this combo down to low 40's with 30mph winds. My last trip I added a Arcteryx Theta SL for rain/wind and when it started to rain/sleet/hail with 30mph wind it worked awesome. I wasn't cold at all, this is definitely the combo I will be bringing from now on. Instead of trying to find one do it all jacket layering is definitely the way to go.

To answer your question more (I know I got off track). I tried the Mountain Hardware Zonal, and the micro puff. Neither were warm enough for me because the wind went right through them.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Dane wrote:Therma wrap is a 100g Primaloft
thermawrap parka is 80g "exceloft" ... the jacket is 50g exceloft ... there is a new jacket that i believe also has 80g exceloft in the core and 50g in the sleeves, and breathable side panels
Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562
bearbreeder wrote: thermawrap parka is 80g "exceloft" ... the jacket is 50g exceloft ... there is a new jacket that i believe also has 80g exceloft in the core and 50g in the sleeves, and breathable side panels
Yes, you are correct I typed too fast. Patagonia's Micro Puff is a 100g Primaloft 1 garment as is the Atom SV in 100g Coreloft. The Atom LT is a 60g weight jacket. Thermawrap has an 80g OR a 50g depending on model. It is the MontBell U.L.Thermawrap Jacket that was actally a 80g body and 60g arms in Exceloft. No stretch side panels like the Atom LT and I believe a new version with a 60g hood as well is on the way. Seems the logical extension and also believe there is a Primaloft 1 jacket done in a similar manner but have no clue who at the moment.

Rab has a 133g Primaloft® Sport in body and 100g Pimaloft Sport in sleeves Light 60g Primaloft® Sport in the hood.

The one below is what I was thinking of when I wrote in error earlier.

Mtn Equip. Fitzroy Jacket is 100g Primaloft® One body insulation and 60g Primaloft® One arm insulation. Should be an exceptional jacket.

Thanks for pointing out my mistake. Easy to get confused trying to track down the level of insulation you want with out us adding to the misinformation..
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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