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Generator Crack - Which Way Do You Like to Face?

Original Post
Mark Thomas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,635

Last weekend I had a blast struggling up Generator Crack in Yosemite Valley. I shimmied up with my right-side in. However, in Supertopo & the photos on this site, it appears that other people favor left-side in. I started out trying that direction, but somehow it just didn't seem right.

Since I'll be going back to work on climbing the route cleaner, I was wondering if left-side in is actually easier, even if at first it seems more awkward?

Karsten Duncan · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,571

Left side in for me.

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
Karsten wrote:Left side in for me.
Yup.
Tom Fralich · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

I prefer to face away from it...and keep a comfortable distance.

Bryan G · · June Lake, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 6,167

The edges of the crack are offset which is why it's easier left side in. The left edge sticks out more and gives you something to press your shoulder against as you chickenwing.

Mark Thomas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,635

The direction of offset had me thinking left-side in, but somehow it just felt weird compared to other times I've matched that orientation. Also, I was debating whether the projecting fin midway up would be better digging into my crotch or my back. :-)

I'll have to play around with the left-side in position next time!

Bryan G · · June Lake, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 6,167

To be honest, I stole the beta from her

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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