Book advice

I'm planning on buying a book in hopes of further guiding my climbing abilities. I've read Long's books and I'm looking for more. I lead in the 5.8-9 range and follow/ TR some 5.10's. I've been climbing for a year and a half.

Which book is likely to be better for me? Or would I be better off studying something else?

The Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement Training Performance by Dan Hauge

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes by Dave McLead

What are you looking to learn from one of these books? It's not clear what if any specific goals you have. Are you looking to lead harder grades? Do you want to improve your movement and other technical skills? Is fear (of falling or whatever) holding you back?

Even without the answers to those questions, I would highly recommend the Self-Coached Climber. The concepts and exercises in that book have really helped me a lot.

If you want to improve your head game, try one of Arno Ilgner's books on mental training for climbers: The Rock Warrior's Way or Espresso Lessons.

I don't know the McLeod book so can't comment on it.

JL

I want to lead harder grades and improve my technique/movement. I'd imagine those things would go hand in hand. I'm *not* afraid of falling. And I'm not a terribly disciplined person so some giant training regime isn't likely to help that much because I probably won't do it.

edited to reflect that I'm *not* afraid of falling. Though, I've never really taken a big whipper.

If you're afraid of falling Arno Illgner's book is pretty good. At least I liked it. As far as movement and technique just climb more and it'll adventually click.

I can't say enough good things about The Rock Warriors Way. Especially if you are looking to lead harder and deal with your fear of falling. I also just started Davae MacLeod's 9 out of 10 book and it seems pretty good. More about how you approach your climbing and less about physical training.

Another aspect of climbing ability is self rescue - a great book that provides solid information, good practice scenarios and excellent diagrams and instructions for rigging is:

Climbing Self-Rescue; Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations, Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis

Won't necessarily help you lead harder, but can add some confidence for when you're out there.

I'm reading Kieth Richards' Life.

Ideas of his antics lurking in the back of my mind while leading seems to help.
Sorry, it has absolutely no advice on guidespeak.

Steve

Read all 3 books you listed + The Rock Warrior's way. You will find benefit in all of them. And don't just read them once. There are lessons that need to be read over and over again.

+1 for a self rescue book (either Tyson & Loomis or Fasulo). I think after the fundamentals of anchoring and pro placement that it's the most important knowledge a climber can have. In terms of performance improvement, I think the aforementioned titles are the way to go.

If you can get your hands on them, I would recommend a few movies that are great for someone in your position:

Moving Over Stone 1 & 2
The Art of Leading

SCC is a very good book. It may be more detailed than you need right now, but just skimming through and looking at the photos would probably be a good place to learn some new movement skills.

I've been going through The Self-Coached Climber and I'm getting a lot of benefit for the body awareness drills. It's worth the small price of the book.