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Tucson crag recommendations

Original Post
Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

My wife and I will be in Tucson next Thu Jan 27th-Mon Jan 31st to climb.!

I'll take any and all recommendations for 5.9 to 5.11 sport and trad routes (and high density crags) that are in season.

Let the beta roll!

Thanks

ps. Beer night? We're staying right near the University.

BenClimbing · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 245

mmmmm....beer. On my way home from the occasional trip to Lemmon I like to stop for dinner at the Nimbus brewery. I really like their beer and the food is pretty good as well. Pretty close to the U.

James DeRoussel · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 1,025

Andy

A day or two at Cochise Stronghold is highly recommended. (check out Warpaint, Bee Line, Forest Lawn, and anything else in the Rockfellow Area.)

As for Mt Lemmon, the Ruins and the Rupley Towers area seem to fit your description pretty well. Rupley Toweres and the Windy Point area have high concentrations of sport, trad and mixed routes in the .9-.11 range.

I would love to meet up for a beer when you are in town. Always nice to put a face with a name! As stated above, Nimbus Brewery is close to the bottom of the mountain and has excellent local brew. Drop me a line.

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751

Hey Andy,

In addition to James' suggestions, consider Chimney Rock. There are many fine climbs in the ranges you specified.

Lizard Marmalade Direct is at Windy Point near some of areas James mentioned. It is arguably one of the best traditional climbs on Mount Lemmon. If you visit the Rupley Tower area, consider R4.

Keep me posted on the beer night. I'd love to meet you.

Charles Vernon · · Colorado megalopolis · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,655

I hear 'Chip it, Clip it, and Rip it' is the one to do.

Hendrixson · · Littleton, CO · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 3,290

I second the Cochise recommendation.

If you prefer to stay closer to Tucson check out Milagrosa Canyon for dense sport climbing.

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

What would folks recommend for a day trip to Cochise? Looking for a classic 5.9 or 5.10 without too long an approach (since we'd be driving that AM). We'd be driving from Tucson.. how long is the drive?

Anyone want to try and motivate for a Thursday PM beer night down by the U?

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
Andy Laakmann wrote:What would folks recommend for a day trip to Cochise? Looking for a classic 5.9 or 5.10 without too long an approach (since we'd be driving that AM). We'd be driving from Tucson.. how long is the drive? Anyone want to try and motivate for a Thursday PM beer night down by the U?
If your driving in that morning you'll probably want to park in either the East Stronghold or do a route on The Sheapshead. The West Stronghold rocks but you're doing a rough dirt road for 30 min or so and the approaches aren't quite so straight forward.

The Sheapshead is a fast and light day. The Rockfellow Group in the East Stronghold is awesome too, but a bit more of a day. You can find sun at both areas.
James DeRoussel · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 1,025
Ryan Williams wrote:The West Stronghold rocks but you're doing a rough dirt road for 30 min or so and the approaches aren't quite so straight forward. The Sheapshead is a fast and light day. The Rockfellow Group in the East Stronghold is awesome too, but a bit more of a day. You can find sun at both areas.
Exactly.

Just poke around those Stronghold areas on this site and I am sure a route or three will grab your attention. You should then look up those routes in the old 'Backcountry' guidebook (Kerry), available online:
climbaz.com/Backcountry/bac…

Kerry's Backcountry guide is IMHO a great piece of local literature. Kerry incorporates a lot of regional history, climbing and non-climbing related, lots of great anecdotes, and is just a great read in so many ways. Also happens to be the best guidebook for the area.

As for beer, I don't go out much near the U of A, but Barrio Brewery, is pretty close. It is also right by the climbing gym downtown, and seems to be the spot these days. Lots of climbers, anyway. Great beer, half decent pub food. Only other place that comes to mind is Gentle Ben's at the U of A main gate, but parking is always a major hassle. Barrio Brewery is my recommendation.
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751
Andy Laakmann wrote:What would folks recommend for a day trip to Cochise? Looking for a classic 5.9 or 5.10 without too long an approach (since we'd be driving that AM). We'd be driving from Tucson.. how long is the drive? Anyone want to try and motivate for a Thursday PM beer night down by the U?
If you are looking for a shorter drive/approach, Absinthe of Mallet on Sheepshead is really, really good.
Harry Henderson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

I bet Geir would like to meet you, so he will get the chance to convince you to remove all the threads that make him look like a jerk. Oh! wait, I thought you were only supposed to edit things where people are being jerks. You must be pretty busy climbing because I think you missed a few.....

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751
Harry Henderson wrote:I bet Geir would like to meet you, so he will get the chance to convince you to remove all the threads that make him look like a jerk. Oh! wait, I thought you were only supposed to edit things where people are being jerks. You must be pretty busy climbing because I think you missed a few.....
Nope. I have never asked for anything to be deleted, and probably never will.

(edited to add "probably")
Brigette Beasley · · Monroe, WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 275
Andy Laakmann wrote:What would folks recommend for a day trip to Cochise? Looking for a classic 5.9 or 5.10 without too long an approach (since we'd be driving that AM). We'd be driving from Tucson.. how long is the drive? Anyone want to try and motivate for a Thursday PM beer night down by the U?
I'd be up for a beer late on Thursday (after the gym) if anyone's up for it.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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