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Nic Harnish > Engineer Mtn N Face A…
Our attempted route. Red dashes mark the adjacent couloir.
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Our high point. We climbed up into a keyhole thinking the other side might offer some comparably better access to the summit ridge but found a massive drop instead. The rock above was far too loose to risk climbing, so we bailed. If you have a fetish for high objective danger this route is for you.
We downclimbed most of the route in addition to two necessary rappels. One at the high point which involved using all of our webbing to sling a loose refrigerator block and as much rock around it as possible to distribute the weight, and another at the first rock section which involved a snow bollard with each of us counter-weighting the other.
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Nic Harnish
Jan 20, 2011
“Our attempted route. Red dashes mark the adjacent couloir.”  

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Our high point. We climbed up into a keyhole thinking the other side might offer some comparably better access to the summit ridge but found a massive drop instead. The rock above was far too loose to risk climbing, so we bailed. If you have a fetish for high objective danger this route is for you.
Our attempted route. Red dashes mark the adjacent couloir.
We downclimbed most of the route in addition to two necessary rappels. One at the high point which involved using all of our webbing to sling a loose refrigerator block and as much rock around it as possible to distribute the weight, and another at the first rock section which involved a snow bollard with each of us counter-weighting the other.
Very close to our high point. This is the top of the adjacent couloir in shallow 60 degree snow on absolutely horrid rock. Things are getting sketchy. Anyone willing to climb this rock portion will gain access to the summit ridge and complete the route.
The short rock section. This short 25' section involved more excavation than climbing. We roped up more for the looseness than the difficulty. Despite the seemingly protectable cracks in the picture absolutely nothing is solid, not even the biggest blocks. The only solid pick placements were in frozen dirt after heavy digging.
After the rock section we traversed into an adjacent couloir that we thought offered a more direct snow route to the summit ridge. It cliffs out below, so you can't enter it from the base without climbing close to 100' of seriously loose vertical rock.
Steep snow on rotten rock right before we roped up for a short rock section.
Inside the couloir.
Moving up steep snow (45-55 degrees) inside the couloir. Very windy.
The base of the couloir.
Heading to the base of the couloir
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