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Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody vs Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody : which is more durable?

Original Post
wetworx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

I know that both offer comparable results insulation/feature wise, but I wanted to know which of the two is the most durable? which would tear first on a tough climb? that sort of thing.

mucho gracias!

Richard88 · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 65

i've never owned a nano puff, but i do have an atom lt jacket and it's probably the most versitile jacket i own. As far as durability, i wore mine every day last year in red rocks stuffing my arms in and out of cracks for a week and the jacket showed absolutely no signs of wear. Since then it's been my go to climbing jacket for both cool days at the crag or in the winter ice climbing.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

atom .... its a higher denier fabric

im not the biggest fan of mine ... but it should be a bit more durable than the patagucci

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
bearbreeder wrote:atom .... its a higher denier fabric im not the biggest fan of mine ... but it should be a bit more durable than the patagucci
What didn't you like about the Atom? I was thinking of getting one myself.
wetworx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

thanks all, one thing patagonia has going for it is the IRON-CLAD WARRANTY. I mean if it breaks (or you're not satisfied) they'll replace or fix it. And they have many local retail locations, versus Arcteryx who requires that everything be shipped to Vancouver (and I expect they charge more for repairs as well).

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
-sp wrote: What didn't you like about the Atom? I was thinking of getting one myself.
2 reasons ...

1. its not that warm for a light puffy ... the nano uses primaloft 1, the "best" synth insulation ... the fleece panels on the atom detracts from the warmth as well ... its more breathable for active situations, but then a light fleece is just as good IMO

2. the inner fabric is fragile, ive had mine have threads come loose from the fabric (not the stitching) in several places ... dead bird looked at it and said "oh its fragile, thats life" ... in contrast my MB Ex Light has a 7D shell and has never had issues, and my EB FA downlight, i can just bring it in and swap it out if i wanted to

the outer shell of the atom should be more durable though ...

hope that helps
wetworx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

maybe I'll get both for travel, since the two are highly compressible...

wear the patagonia underneath my shell when on the move (relying on the warranty to cover me)...and toss the arcteryx over the shell+nano when on belay - i believe it has more loft anyway....i understand i still have to be careful not to tear the arcteryx in that situation as well.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

it all depends on yr intended usage ... is it more a belay jacket, or something youll be climbing in regularly

i personally use a base->windshirt/windvest/softshell -> UL down sweater/vest -> synth hoody system

the down tends to stay in the pack unless it gets really cold .. it only weight 5.5 oz

at that point it can go under (preferably) or over the synth jacket ..., putting it under protects it from moisture and is optimum for body vapor management (think synth overbag)

the downside is that its a bit more complicated than a single belay jacket

note that putting an insulating jacket under a windshirt boost the warmth quite a bit as long as its not compressed too much

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
bearbreeder wrote:... hope that helps
Mos def, will look into the other two you mentioned as well. Thanks
Richard88 · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 65

I would reccomend a higher loft jacket for belaying when it's cold out. i'm not sure where you'll be, but the atom jacket is best suited for cool days or for use durring high activity. the pannels on the sides make it very breathable.

Richard88 · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 65

As far as what i take everywhere- 1. Marmot hooded ultralight 800 fill down jacket for belaying. 2. Arc'teryx atom for climbing/the approach. 3. gore-tex shell for wel or windy conditions. All of these have served me well and never left me needing more while also keeping it light. Hope this helps and good luck.

P.S. dont but both synthetics, one or the other should be just fine. one thing i will say is if you can GET THE HOODED VERSION!!!

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
Richard88 wrote:I would reccomend a higher loft jacket for belaying when it's cold out. i'm not sure where you'll be, but the atom jacket is best suited for cool days or for use durring high activity. the pannels on the sides make it very breathable.
I'm looking for something that breathes better than my Arc'teryx Gamma SV and is at least as warm, but not as warm as the 3/4 Patagonia down sweater. If that makes any sense?

I also have an Alpha SL shell for the wet weather.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
-sp wrote: I'm looking for something that breathes better than my Arc'teryx Gamma SV and is at least as warm. I have a shell for the wet weather.
sp ... i have both the atom lt hoody and the gamma sv hoody ... id say that the gamma breathes a tad better, but the atom is a bit warmer ... its quite easy to feel the sweat/dampness insie the atom because it lacks the pile of the gamma sv that wicks away the moisture

the atom is likely the most breathable of the micro puffies, if thats what youre looking for ... itll never be as warm as a good 800+fill down sweater though ... its roughly as warm as a 200 wt fleece ... the atom is of course lighter than the sv ...

there both in there somewhere ...

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
bearbreeder wrote: ...there both in there somewhere ...
As an admitted Dead-bird whore, I can't help but appreciate that picture.

Maybe I'll have to spring for the Atom and just wear it around outside the store to compare it to the Gamma. I wont feel bad about returning it if I don't really abuse it in any way.
Richard88 · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 65

As stated above the atom isn't completely breathable, but i've never had any problems while climbing (sometimes on the hike in it might get a little clammy, but even when ice climbing by the time the approach is over i'm normally in a t-shirt so i dont think anything would be better other than a soft shell). As far as warmth i wear mine alone while being stationary to 40 degrees, alone while climbing to 30 degrees, when paired with my gore-tex shell i've been out in wyoming winters in a variety of conitions and been comfortable. note: My shell is just that a shell with no insulation

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75

I appreciate the info. (sorry about the thread hijack wetworx)

wetworx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

haha no worries, it happens.

btw, I actually have the nano puff hoody...i do find it a bit fragile (punctured it on a snag already), chest zipper constantly catches and chews up the lining (I might sew in a flap), and the jacket sags a bit...but it's lite, warm on its own down to the lower teens, and is highly compressible.

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562
wetworx wrote:I know that both offer comparable results insulation/feature wise, but I wanted to know which of the two is the most durable? which would tear first on a tough climb? that sort of thing. mucho gracias!
Actually they DO NOT offer compariable insulation or features. Not even close. The Atom LT will be more tear resistant. But neither will make it past any serious mixed where you actually touch rock with them. Totally different garments though for climbing. Anyone that tells you different hasn't climbed in both or either of them.

Arcteryx's synthetic? At least as good as Primaloft One imo having used both over the last few years winter climbing. May be even better in wet conditions or trying to get dried out. As has been said already the Atom lt is not a belay parka. The Atom SV how ever fits that role well. And makes a perfect combo with the Atom LT in cold weather climbing. That said I and my partner both wore Atom lts for a -30C ascent of Polar Circus over just RI hoodies or less. PC had some running water on it even then...which is not unusual. That and snow storm while on the climb did makefor a good test of our cold weather systems though. I used just a Mtn Hardware wool/combo T shirt under my Atom lt until we stared rapping in the dark. I then added a R1 and a EB hooded Down pullover. My partner added a EB down sweater to his Atom. Atom LT is an exceptionally high tech bit of cold weather climbing clothing, vents heat well, water resistance and a quality insulation material that will replace a number of garments and do it better. Patagonia Nano puff is a basic Primaloft 1 lwt sweater really. Great layering piece or a "thick" wind shirt but not a lot more.

Eiher is a perfect piece if you know how and where to use them but I don't think they are interchangable and wouldn't suggest using one to replace the other. Both have limitations.

Up side is both are very easy to stuff and carry.

More here... or a ta least a bit the Atom anyway: More there as well listed under "climbing Sweaters". Nothing specific written yet on the Nano, but it is coming.

coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…
wetworx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

I just took the Atom LT Hoody out for test...first impressions...

it is warmer than the Nano Hoody, blocks wind better, protects the neck and lower back more, lined pockets keep hands warmer, has a slimmer fit , has a "streamlined" look, and the shell seems more durable.

the nano hoody tho is marginally more compressible, has a built-in stuff sack, isn't quite as slim so fits over other layers easier, has IRON CLAD warranty with convenient retail locations, has a more "classic" look, and Patagonia is more environmentally conscious.

thanks for all the replies.

Dhamma · · Roseville, Ca · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 90

I am a major patagonia fan and I've got to say I'm honestly disappointed with the nano puff.

Its not that warm, its cut for someone with a keg beer gut, it doesn't have a hem-cord to keep heat in (which would weight nothing), and all the stitching on the jacket falls off. I'm honestly considering returning mine. The pro's are its small size and weight and packability down in its pocket.

Skinny DeVille · · Dirty South · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

That Gucci Nano is pretty neat...

-I agree that the cut is weird, but most Gucci stuff has an inconsistent fit. Try it on before you buy it.

-Durability - The previous poster seems to be an anomaly, I have beaten mine up pretty bad and it still remains looking pristine (have had it for a year now).

-Temperature and warmth. These are such relative terms that it is difficult to pin everything down on it. Versatility is cool and all, and this is versatile, but if it is going to be NASTY cold, opt for the DAS or something heavy. This is a great (especially with the hood, I do not have the hooded version...damnit) over layer for hanging out at the belay or camp in moderate to cold temps, but not frigid. Make sure your system meets the requirements of the temperatures.

-Overall, awesome piece of gear, hope the gucci keeps making it!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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