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> RMNP - Mixed/Ice
> Glacier Gorge T…
> Loch Vale & uphill
The Petit Gully
M5+
Avg: 3.1 from 7
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Unknown. Steve Su and Bruce Miller in 2009, but was likely climbed before that. Additional information would be appreciated. |
| Page Views: | 4,521 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Sheridan on Jan 16, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The Petit Gully follows the prominent gully to the right of the south face of the Petit Grepon. The route offers a lot of everything with classic gully groveling and steep, sometimes overhanging, drytooling as well. In March and April, there's the potential for some actual ice as well.
P1: Start at the lower right side of the south face of the Petit Grepon. Climb and obvious weakness up to an overhanging chockstone. Pull the roof and belay at a fixed anchor. 100 feet, M5.
P2: Traverse left, then climb up a low angle chimney, then tunnel behind a chockstone. Belay to the left of the gully below a crack system. 180 feet, M4.
P3: Climb the crack system left of the gully proper, then run the rope out to a belay high and left. 200 feet, M5.
P4: Climb the gully up to a massive chockstone, passing it on the right, then continue up easy snow with a few short steps to a belay on the right. 200 feet, M5.
P5: Climb a short, left-facing corner past then past a fixed rappel station. 80 feet, M5+.
P6: Climb up and right, then towards the end of the pitch, cut back left to finish at the notch between the Petit and the Saber.
From here, it is easy to descend the route with about six rappels. Traverse onto the south face of the Petit for the last two rappels.
Alternately, one more pitch of mostly snow will get you to The Gash, by dropping down the other (west) side from the notch, then traversing north. From there, you can continue to the summit of the Shark's Tooth or The Saber. Continuing up to the summit of the Shark's Tooth would yield a total of about 10 pitches of excellent mixed climbing and make for a fantastic outing. If you make it to The Gash or above, the best way down is likely to rappel Alaskarado.
As an aside, the route also lends itself to adapting some Yosemite speed climbing tactics (such as short fixing) to the alpine realm. For instance, after leading the steep first pitch, the leader can fix the rope and start rope soloing up the easier terrain above while the second cleans the first pitch on jumars.
P1: Start at the lower right side of the south face of the Petit Grepon. Climb and obvious weakness up to an overhanging chockstone. Pull the roof and belay at a fixed anchor. 100 feet, M5.
P2: Traverse left, then climb up a low angle chimney, then tunnel behind a chockstone. Belay to the left of the gully below a crack system. 180 feet, M4.
P3: Climb the crack system left of the gully proper, then run the rope out to a belay high and left. 200 feet, M5.
P4: Climb the gully up to a massive chockstone, passing it on the right, then continue up easy snow with a few short steps to a belay on the right. 200 feet, M5.
P5: Climb a short, left-facing corner past then past a fixed rappel station. 80 feet, M5+.
P6: Climb up and right, then towards the end of the pitch, cut back left to finish at the notch between the Petit and the Saber.
From here, it is easy to descend the route with about six rappels. Traverse onto the south face of the Petit for the last two rappels.
Alternately, one more pitch of mostly snow will get you to The Gash, by dropping down the other (west) side from the notch, then traversing north. From there, you can continue to the summit of the Shark's Tooth or The Saber. Continuing up to the summit of the Shark's Tooth would yield a total of about 10 pitches of excellent mixed climbing and make for a fantastic outing. If you make it to The Gash or above, the best way down is likely to rappel Alaskarado.
As an aside, the route also lends itself to adapting some Yosemite speed climbing tactics (such as short fixing) to the alpine realm. For instance, after leading the steep first pitch, the leader can fix the rope and start rope soloing up the easier terrain above while the second cleans the first pitch on jumars.
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