This should help folks suss out the location for the start of the route although it's easy to find. Basically just walk straight uphill from the reading room cave and start climbing up where you see a single belay bolt. Belaying from under the overhang @ 10' right of the route is recommended until all of the loose stuff is off. <br> <br> <ul><li>Note* someone gave it 3 stars? Huh? I think the last pitch of this route could conceivably be called 3 stars. Frikkan sweet pitch no doubt! Great body movements, varied and interesting climbing with some crazy chimney moves, stems and nice rests in addition to being fairly solid. Perfect location as well, man, it's up there in space and it's a great view...but...uhhh....that first pitch....uhhh....come on!?! 3 stars? It has choss and is just butt assed ballsy for a bolted route. Put some more bolts on it and I could go 1 star, maybe 2 if you really did a nice clean up as well. </li></ul> <br> Ujahn Davisson photo

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The amazing Ben Priestly on lead. The lower part of the route is some scary flat blocky rock that has some interesting body positions (seen here) and technical moves, and the upper 1/3 (last pitch) both firms up and turns into some perfectly fantastic knob climbing in a great setting. <br>
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Ujahn Davisson photo

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Billcoe

Jan 16, 2011

“This should help folks suss out the location for the start of the route although it's easy to find. Basically just walk straight uphill from the reading room cave and start climbing up where you see a single belay bolt. Belaying from under the overhang @ 10' right of the route is recommended until all of the loose stuff is off.

Note* someone gave it 3 stars? Huh? I think the last pitch of this route could conceivably be called 3 stars. Frikkan sweet pitch no doubt! Great body movements, varied and interesting climbing with some crazy chimney moves, stems and nice rests in addition to being fairly solid. Perfect location as well, man, it's up there in space and it's a great view...but...uhhh....that first pitch....uhhh....come on!?! 3 stars? It has choss and is just butt assed ballsy for a bolted route. Put some more bolts on it and I could go 1 star, maybe 2 if you really did a nice clean up as well.

Ujahn Davisson photo”

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