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Best time to visit Tucson? Also, want to partner up?

Original Post
Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

My grandparents moved to Tucson earlier this year and I'd really like to get out and visit them. From what little bit I know of the area, there's a lot of great climbing so I'd like to check out Mt. Lemmon or any of the other neighboring areas. I figure I can swing a 5 day visit and spend 3 days with the family, 2 days climbing. I can come as early as mid-February or as late as April. By May I think I'm heading off to do Rainier.

I'd really like to come out and climb some ice, but I realize that's a total crapshoot and very condition dependent, so I think planning on a rock trip would be safer (or maybe I'm wrong?). Alternatively an techincal "alpine" ascent of Lemmon would be cool too. Any routes like that?

I prefer long moderate trad routes up to 5.10, sport up to 11 or struggle, hangdog, and french free my way up 12's, making excuses the whole way. Ice I lead WI4 to 4+. I've been climbing 10 years, I'm an EMT and WFR, can self-rescue, yadda yadda yadda.

So, with all that in mind... when should I visit? Is ice feasible? How about multi-pitch ice? Any long classic routes? Want to climb them with me?

Charles Vernon · · Colorado megalopolis · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,655

Don't plan on climbing ice here. Do a day on Lemmon and a day in Cochise--doesn't really matter whether it's February or April. Think about Baboquivari too. There are loads upon loads of long classic routes--check the Cochise route page for some ideas as well as the backcountry guide.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

Personally, I'd go to Cochise both days. Cochise seems like more of a destination, and the guidebook is free online! climbaz.com/Backcountry/bac…

James DeRoussel · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 1,025

Yeah, don't come here planning to climb ice. You would be extremely disappointed. In Feb/March, you might find occasion to walk around in your crampons at the summit if you are real hard-up for ice! That's always a good time! I kid...

Mt Lemmon has some great options Feb. thru April, but falcon seasonal closures exist on a few of the higher crags with the longer (3-5 pitch) routes. The closures are not geographically expansive, however, so there are still a LOT of options for 1-3 pitch climbing elsewhere on Lemmon. Very accessible.

Spring in Cochise Stronghold is pretty hard to beat, but for the falcon closures which, again, cover the very best crags. That makes Fall the best time really. Still, there are other great options. For the long moderate trad you described, this is your best bet for quantity and quality of routes. Pretty accessible, but backcountry by local standards.

Baboquivari is also a great suggestion. Some truly long lines out here and a really amazing place in general. Backcountry by most any standard. Don't go there alone.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Thanks for the input everyone. No ice, got it.

Baboquivari sounds/looks pretty damn cool. I've got more research to do, but that looks like just the ticket. Now to find a partner....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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