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Routes in Upper East Face
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Blind Trust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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DH1? T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Enlightenment, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Grey Elk's Big Rack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Long Live Rock T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mile High Comic Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nighthawk T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old and Undocumented, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Saturday Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Schizofrantic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ticket, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vicious Rumors T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Young and the Rackless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 280 ft (85 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,280 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Jun 29, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Blob Rock, East Blob closed 2/1/24
Details
Seasonal restrictions in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info can be found: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info can be found: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Thirty feet uphill from The Young and the Rackless, spot a line of three bolts heading up a steep wall. This is the route.
Climb up and left past 3 bolts to lower-angled rock. Ramble up another 40' to the anchor. It's probably better to belayfrom here instead of lowering.
Fun climbing on the steep headwall, but the long easy section to the anchor detracts from the route.
Climb up and left past 3 bolts to lower-angled rock. Ramble up another 40' to the anchor. It's probably better to belayfrom here instead of lowering.
Fun climbing on the steep headwall, but the long easy section to the anchor detracts from the route.
P2-4
This information was inspired by the comment from Ivan Rezucha. The first pitch of this line carries the name DH1 in the D'Antonio guidebook; however, it appears that the line continues another 3 pitches.
P2. A few feet to the right of the anchor of P1 is a bolt. Traverse to the bolt, then head up. Drift left to an arete of sorts. Continue up past 2 bolts where it steepens at a small, right-facing dihedral. Find good gear placements, continue up to a slab with a 2 bolt anchor & links. 5.9, 70'.
P3. Continue up a short slab to a bulge with a crack protectable with small cams. Clip the bolt. Now, this crux section is tricky and probably 5.11 briefly. Clip a second bolt. Note, a traverse to the right can circumvent this crux at ~5.9. Continue up easier, block ground to a 2 bolt anchor with links. 5.11 or 5.9+, 50'.
P4. Go up a bit of steeper ground angling right past 2 close bolts. There is a long reach out right which may be a crux for the shorter. Then traverse back left with a balancy crux ~5.10-. Continue up on easier ground to an odd, reachy bulge off a ledge protected by a bolt, and find a tiny tree. Angle left on easier terrain to the 2 bolt anchor for P4 of Young and Rackless. 5.10, 100'.
P2. A few feet to the right of the anchor of P1 is a bolt. Traverse to the bolt, then head up. Drift left to an arete of sorts. Continue up past 2 bolts where it steepens at a small, right-facing dihedral. Find good gear placements, continue up to a slab with a 2 bolt anchor & links. 5.9, 70'.
P3. Continue up a short slab to a bulge with a crack protectable with small cams. Clip the bolt. Now, this crux section is tricky and probably 5.11 briefly. Clip a second bolt. Note, a traverse to the right can circumvent this crux at ~5.9. Continue up easier, block ground to a 2 bolt anchor with links. 5.11 or 5.9+, 50'.
P4. Go up a bit of steeper ground angling right past 2 close bolts. There is a long reach out right which may be a crux for the shorter. Then traverse back left with a balancy crux ~5.10-. Continue up on easier ground to an odd, reachy bulge off a ledge protected by a bolt, and find a tiny tree. Angle left on easier terrain to the 2 bolt anchor for P4 of Young and Rackless. 5.10, 100'.
Protection
Three bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. There is a long runout to the anchor on easy climbing after the third bolt; you might want to bring a few small to medium cams if this is a concern.
Protection for P2-4
Wires, single set of small cams to a #2 Camalot. With this, the route is at most PG-13.
Note, without #1 & #2 Camalots, P1 will feel distinctly runout.
Note, without #1 & #2 Camalots, P1 will feel distinctly runout.
Descent
4 x <30m raps down this route or The Young and the Rackless. Both will have some traversing rappels.
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