The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

the only problem with the water system in the Ice Park is that it can't make ice unless it is below 30º, and if you do a historical weather search you will see that not only was it not below 30º's for the beginning of Dec. it was in the high 40º's and even hit 50º, not only that but it rained and if you lived here or were visiting you would have noticed that the Ice Park was looking rad just after T-giving and for the following couple of weeks you could go to the park and watch the ice deteriorate right in front of you eyes, you'd of wanted an umbrella to do this. If you're so bummed on the ice park not having ice and the crowds at Skylight, you should go to Vail and join the guides and (front) Rangers at the base of Spiral Staircase. Or, you could take a walk and climb the mega-classic Ames Ice Hose which is in great shape, or Cracked Canyon Ice Fall, or the two pillars just above Senator's Gulch (parking for Skylight) or the Talisman, or go for a snow grovel up Birdbrain, or The (Telluride) Fang, or Bridalveil, or the waterfalls just below the road on Red Mt. Pass about 1/2 mile south of the Engineer Pass turn, Silverpick, Bearcreek... I mean really, you've got all this sick gear, go use it. And if you still won't go for a walk there about 20 decent drytooling routes in the Skylight area.

Beagle wrote:I mean really, you've got all this sick gear, go use it. And if you still won't go for a walk there about 20 decent drytooling routes in the Skylight area.

like

Went down to Wolf Creek to ski, but looked at the ice on the east side, it's in, looks decent at the chain station. Oh, and it snowed 10 feet there last week.

Nice shot Beagle!

That is why we went skiing that day!
(me in front, Carol Kotchek middle, Aaron Miller with old glory)
Way to many climbers @ one route! With so many others to be done,
will anyone sack up for the sharp end??

There were actually some really cool mixed/ice lines up near skylight area this weekend that I havent seen formed before. Werent crowded either... Just gotta think outside the box.

Anyone knows what conditions are like in Vail right now?
Thanks!

Vail:
The designator:

The Spiral Staircase:


The Pencil & Eraser area:


The Fang:

Took the tools for a walk in the park monday... here are a few conditions:

LV
far left side: in, but short and not really worth the walk (as always)
main curtain: touching down in only one spot (and well guarded by free-hanging ice), with a lot of free-hanging ice, pretty far off the ground. not really in climbing shape.
far right: not touching down

Crypt
Appears in, but as always -- short and likely avy prone currently



AMU



JLI
Was told by some departing climbers that it is a wallow to get there (they didn't go all the way), but appeared 'in'.

Anybody know the conditions in Redstone and Glenwood Canyon?

Does anybody have an idea on what Longs' N Face looks like? Or a Pic would be awesome.

Thanks,
John

About to head up to the ice park this sunday - mid week next week. I was there 2 weeks ago when it all fell down and rained and what not, so I can imagine what the park will be like. But I'm actually looking to just join in the festival fun for sunday and then head off to do some REAL ice. 2 weeks ago when I was there - it snowed alot, avi danger was too great for most things.

So how about now? what's the condition/avi danger on the long classics below WI4/M5 etc.? Like - ribbon/birdbrain/stairway/ames/etc? How about the stuff around red mountain pass? 2 weeks ago I was told not to go there. I like easy long classics :)

What are in good shape to get on right now?

Will it be worth my 6hr drive from the front range?

best regards.

Just was in Ouray a few days ago and the park should be good to go with plenty of ice, if they open it to climbers. Seems like there was decent ice, yet it seems like it was closed to build it as big as possible before the fest. I'm not familiar with how they deem man-made ice "safe" and when they open areas. The ice will surely be shitty and require alot of cleaning. Skylight is all pegged out and people taking numbers to do routes, can't see that getting any better this coming weekend. Folks parking all the way down the road. The Ribbon is in great shape, it pooped out on my buddies pretty good but didn't rip them off the route though. That route is always a toss-up with snow above. Birdbrain is filled with snow down low. Talisman is kinda in on the upper pitches with the initial pitch getting to it being touted as M9+R trad. If you like big crowds, watching others climb and waiting all day to climb a route, make the drive. My 2-cents

Climbed All Mixed up yesterday (Jan7). Wind slab everywhere up there. Slab below start is approx 6-10" thick, sitting atop 3-4" of sugar. P3 slope more of the same, although there is a broken stretch you can follow. Top slab has cracked off in a few places, so not as bad, but the traverse back to the base of the route is slabbed out as well. Be careful out there, and go out of your way to stay on and link rock features on those slopes.

As for the climb, it was pretty lean (as compared to the pics on the AMU route page). A lot of the ice we encountered was rotten or sublimated. A lot of spots were mighty thin as well. P1 was pretty solid though (went up the middle). Thereafter there were a couple good screws here and there, but mostly rock gear. Frozen turf is in great shape though, always came along at just the right time. Bring stoppers, cams, pins, and make sure you bring your stubbies and screamers (ended up having to tie-off a 13cm more than once, fun). Good to be out.

Pic is pretty large so you can click through to see more detail.

Redstone Pillar is in, but thin at the top and very wet on the right side.

Any updates on Lincoln Falls?

LosBosquez wrote:Any updates on Lincoln Falls?

This time of year there should be no reason why you shouldn't just go there, no need to ask...should be pretty fat, especially with the way the ice is looking off of I-70. Lincoln is one of the places that's in first and out last. I would imagine this might be a huge year too with all the snow, melt, cold.

Have fun!!

Anybody know if the upper falls in Haflin Canyon are in? I've seen a lot of ice on the hills around Durango, but haven't been in the canyon yet this year. I don't want to loose a day of climbing by hiking!

Actually, unless something drastic has changed, there is no reason to go to Mt. Lincoln now. I was there at the end of Dec. and there is much less ice than in previous years. There is also much more snow than usual. The combination makes for short sections of climable ice interspersed with long snow wallows. Most of the steeper sections weren't completely in and to do them as mixed lines also involves lots of slogging. At least it's not crowded.

David Sweet wrote:Actually, unless something drastic has changed, there is no reason to go to Mt. Lincoln now. I was there at the end of Dec. and there is much less ice than in previous years. There is also much more snow than usual. The combination makes for short sections of climable ice interspersed with long snow wallows. Most of the steeper sections weren't completely in and to do them as mixed lines also involves lots of slogging. At least it's not crowded.

Wow...thanks Dave! I would have thought the opposite!

Anyone know the conditions of Columbine Falls or Peacock Pillar in the Park?