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short fixing

Original Post
Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

whats your preffered knot of choice when you tie off the anchor? clove hitch? butterfly? Ive seen some tie a figure 8, but the 8 will fold over on itself if loaded from both sides. opinions?

Scott Bennett · · Western North America · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 1,265

If I'm dealing with a bomber 2-bolt anchor, I like to tie a clove hitch on one bolt for the second to jug on, and then a figure eight on the other bolt. Leave a bit of slack between the two knots.

-Scott

Spyder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 5

1st: i will make a $money$ powerpoint with a couple double length slings.

2nd: tie an 8 to the powerpoint for hommie to jug

3rd: with the rest i tie a clove for me. i like the clove because it's fairly easy to resize if i need more slack to get into the haul bag etc. plus, when you're resizing the knot you don't have to untie/unclip it. making it safer.

i think tying a butterfly powerpoint is cool too, but it eats up a bit more rope, making it harder to link pitches etc.

mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

Bunny ear figure 8, or whatever you want to call it.

You can adjust for the angle of the line you are fixing.

If you are going to tie a figure 8 then a clove etc, may as well just tie ONE knot and be on your way.

This is a standard way to anchor whilst shortfixing.

When you take off, clove a screamer on one of the bolts, making sure you have sufficient slack to the main anchor point.

Don't Fall.

Double figure 8, Bunny ear figure 8

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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