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Routes in The Warlock
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Bird of Prey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Imaginary Voyage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sea of Tranquility T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | E.C. Joe and Dick Leversee, August 1977 |
| Page Views: | 18,960 total · 96/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Feb 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
There's probably a number of ways to break these pitches up and it appeared some possible variations on some of the pitches. Climb a great crack on the first pitch. Where this crack ends there is a bolted protected the face moves above. With a 60 meter rope you can take it all the way to a ledge where you can belay at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral and belay at a ledge or continue up another crack before belaying at a ledge left of the crack at the base of a chimney. We thought the next pitch was great. Climb up the steep chimney which you can stay out of by climbing the well-featured face and continue up and right until you come to the large chimney below the summit block of the Warlock. Face climb past some bolts to the summit of the Warlock. If you've been to the Needles you know moderates are in short supply and Imaginary Voyage is a good, moderate route that gets great afternoon sun when it gets hot.
Location
Located on the east or southeast face of the Warlock. Go around the north side of the Witch and past the Howling. Descend the gully between the Warlock and Voodoo Dome. It's been a while, but I remember looking for a crack on the face left o f a large dihedral. There is a bolted face route just right of Imaginary Voyage. There's a descent topo on Clint Cumming's Needles site.
Photos
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