Changes in Longitude
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Dan Dingle, Mike Lawson, Alex McGuffie, Brent Roberts, and Maxie McGuffie 1978 |
Page Views: | 5,268 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Tim Heid on Apr 4, 2010 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Access:
Details
The only access issue for this area is the seasonal closure of routes on the north side of Tom's Thumb.
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Description
CIL is a horizontal seam that crosses 2 large boulders to a huge detached flake. The entire first pitch of the climb is a traverse from left to right; make sure you place a good amount of pro to protect your second.
Pitch 1: Start on top of a large boulder and make a thin exposed move to get into the seam under a small roof. One spicy move and you're at jugs and good feet. Keep moving right for about 40' until you get to a break in the boulder. Look right and up 5' and you'll see the seam continue on. Follow this for about 30' and arrive at the detached flake to find 2 older, but solid bolts to belay from(semi-hanging, but comfortable). The belay can be backed up by medium sized gear.
Pitch 2: Fun, easy chimney climbing up to a large chockstone. Get past this and head up the face on the left to the top.
Pitch 1: Start on top of a large boulder and make a thin exposed move to get into the seam under a small roof. One spicy move and you're at jugs and good feet. Keep moving right for about 40' until you get to a break in the boulder. Look right and up 5' and you'll see the seam continue on. Follow this for about 30' and arrive at the detached flake to find 2 older, but solid bolts to belay from(semi-hanging, but comfortable). The belay can be backed up by medium sized gear.
Pitch 2: Fun, easy chimney climbing up to a large chockstone. Get past this and head up the face on the left to the top.
Location
CIL is located about 200 feet west(climbers right) of the base of Quaker Oats.
When looking at Sven Slab from the parking area you can see a massive detached flake, this is the location of the end of pitch 1. Obvious thin seam runs that runs left of the flake across the middle of the boulders is CIL. Start is the very left side of this seam.
When looking at Sven Slab from the parking area you can see a massive detached flake, this is the location of the end of pitch 1. Obvious thin seam runs that runs left of the flake across the middle of the boulders is CIL. Start is the very left side of this seam.
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