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WARNING 70M rope required

Original Post
1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

Just letting folks know that you can no longer assume that a 60M rope may not get you off a route that has lower off anchors. Forgotten wall, Butterfly, and Weathertop are the cliffs that come to mind where some routes take a 70M to reach the ground. So if you are not sure of the routes length tie a knot in the belayers end of the rope. Remember you have to safely reach the ground to have finished the climb.

mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

What ever happened to TYING INTO THE ROPE?

Trasgo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0
Eric Rhicard wrote:Just letting folks know that you can no longer assume that a 60M rope may not get you off a route that has lower off anchors. Forgotten wall, Butterfly, and Weathertop are the cliffs that come to mind where some routes take a 70M to reach the ground. So if you are not sure of the routes length tie a knot in the belayers end of the rope. Remember you have to safely reach the ground to have finished the climb.
What kind of idiot would ever "assume" that a 60m,50m, or 100m is long enough to get you down in the first place? If you are not "absolutely sure" then perhaps you should stay on the ground. Or just tie a damn knot in the end of the rope so it can't run through the belay device. Don't really understand how this ever happens.
Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
Eric Rhicard wrote:Just letting folks know that you can no longer assume that a 60M rope may not get you off a route that has lower off anchors. Forgotten wall, Butterfly, and Weathertop are the cliffs that come to mind where some routes take a 70M to reach the ground. So if you are not sure of the routes length tie a knot in the belayers end of the rope. Remember you have to safely reach the ground to have finished the climb.
Ladies and Gentlemen, this is a public seeeerrrrrrrrrrvice announcement...
Dr. Ellis D. Funnythoughts · · Evergreen, Co · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 125
Ryan Williams wrote: Ladies and Gentlemen, this is a public seeeerrrrrrrrrrvice announcement...
Im Kyle Purcell and i approve this message.
1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10,126

That is funny shit kyle. It is a PSA. See the threads of folks lowered off the end of the rope and since anchors are moving up I just wanted to remind folks not to assume that lower off anchors may be more than 60M up these days. Mucci's point about tying into the rope made me think that if I kept the bottom of the rope tied into the rope bag while cragging it would serve the same purpose. Or as suggested a knot at the end will do as well.

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com · · Tucson/DMR · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,751
Trasgo wrote: What kind of idiot would ever "assume" that a 60m,50m, or 100m is long enough to get you down in the first place? If you are not "absolutely sure" then perhaps you should stay on the ground. Or just tie a damn knot in the end of the rope so it can't run through the belay device. Don't really understand how this ever happens.
Trasgo-

People make mistakes. There are thousands of climbs on Lemmon. A very large number of these climbs are relatively short, which results in folks getting into the (bad) habit of not closing the system.

Thanks Eric for the reminder. I just climbed at Weathertop and had a lot of fun up there today. Several of those climbs required a 70m rope to lower safely.
Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
Eric Rhicard wrote:That is funny shit kyle. It is a PSA. See the threads of folks lowered off the end of the rope and since anchors are moving up I just wanted to remind folks not to assume that lower off anchors may be more than 60M up these days. Mucci's point about tying into the rope made me think that if I kept the bottom of the rope tied into the rope bag while cragging it would serve the same purpose. Or as suggested a knot at the end will do as well.
If it's close or I can't see the anchor I just tie a fig 8 right on my harness. I'll be tying in next anyways... this way I can go ahead and start climbing once we get to the end of the rope and when my partner has enough slack he'll just put me on belay... obviously only works if your following the route. It does take up extra rope though.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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