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Satan's Revenge
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 4 from 4
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Routes in Disappearing Angel
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Disappearing Angel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Satan's Revenge T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Gilje - 1995 |
| Page Views: | 2,551 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 8, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is awesome. It is kinda like Dolofright's big brother (although it is probably quite a bit safer) -- another amazing find by Tom Gilje. It ascends the north face of Disappearing Angel (good for hotter temps) in two pitches... a little bit of crack climbing leads to some pretty rad face climbing.
P1: Climb the gradually widening crack to where it ends, clip a bolt, and pull a burly hand traverse straight left for 15 feet (crux!). The falls are wild and scary, but clean. At the end of the traverse, mantle up, and clip 5 or 6 more bolts as you face climb up to a nice belay ledge. The passage is interesting and unlikely, and all the more so with the fragile holds. One section on this pitch (moving to the anchor) warrants a serious rating. You may wish to clip the first bolt on the second pitch to protect the second. 100', 5.12.
P2: Move right and then up a short, funky corner. From here, traverse back left 30 feet through some seriously crumbly rock to a belay around the corner on the east face of the tower. A short fifth class scramble leads to the summit and a rap anchor. 100', 5.11. Two raps back down the route with a single 60m rope.
P1: Climb the gradually widening crack to where it ends, clip a bolt, and pull a burly hand traverse straight left for 15 feet (crux!). The falls are wild and scary, but clean. At the end of the traverse, mantle up, and clip 5 or 6 more bolts as you face climb up to a nice belay ledge. The passage is interesting and unlikely, and all the more so with the fragile holds. One section on this pitch (moving to the anchor) warrants a serious rating. You may wish to clip the first bolt on the second pitch to protect the second. 100', 5.12.
P2: Move right and then up a short, funky corner. From here, traverse back left 30 feet through some seriously crumbly rock to a belay around the corner on the east face of the tower. A short fifth class scramble leads to the summit and a rap anchor. 100', 5.11. Two raps back down the route with a single 60m rope.
Protection
P1: A single set of cams from 0.1 Camalot (00 TCU/Black Alien) to #3 Camalot and a bunch of draws & slings. No wires needed.
Rope drag is an issue: You can mitigate it by using a single 60m cord, but tying into both ends. After the hand traverse, begin clipping the other end of the rope. There is a good stance after a bolt or two to untie (and drop to the ground) whichever end of the rope is causing the most drag.
P2: Bring the 0.1 and 0.2 Camalots (00 and 0 TCU's) only, and a bunch of draws & slings.
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