Need recommendations for backcountry climbs in AZ or NM

My girlfriend and I are planning a trip Dec. 16-20 to Arizona for some (hopefully) warm weather climbing. We're looking for a backcountry experience - somewhere we can hike for a day to get to, have a day-long epic climb the next, and then hike out the following morning or late that night. The most appealing idea we've come up with so far through a MP search is Born of Water or I'itoi Dance on Baboquivari in Cochise, but this is a short day's hike (and two-days, max). Anybody have a recommendation for some backcountry climbing somewhere warm, and probably upper 5.10-ish trad or under - we're coming from Boulder so thinking AZ or NM, but anywhere <15hr drive would be fine.

Thanks in advance,

-Abram

Check out the Organ Mountains in Southern New Mexico. They are next to Las Cruces. The approaches can be 2-8 hours. Sometimes longer. This depends on where you go and how much bushwacking you want to tackle. There are several opportunities to camp for several days in the the mountains and climb as epically as you desire. The Organs have a very backcountry feel. It is very unlikely you will see anyone else. Rabbit Ears Canyon has a lot of climbs and camping spots. The middle peaks are the most remote but could probably camp near them as well. The sugarloaf isn't as long of a hike but has some nice long routes. The east side of the organ needle has some long approaches and routes. The Organs are a place one could probably get a FA as well. Still plenty of room for new routes throughout the range.

That looks like a perfect place, thanks for the suggestion! Are there any restrictions on backcountry camping or permits that you'd need?

There aren't any restrictions for backcountry camping. Just use leave no trace ethics as one would anywhere. The organs are a wilderness study area. I doubt there are any fire restrictions but that would be something to look into. Probably not much wood up in the mountains anyway. There are some designated BLM camping at Aquirre Springs. There is a fee there but they have bathrooms and campsites. Some restrictions do apply there. If one was to do some of the Rabbit ears or sugarloaf climbs, Aquirre Springs would be a good camp.

Great, thanks for the info!
-Abram

Not sure if you have settled on a location yet, but here is a link to back county climbing book for az.

climbaz.com/Backcountry/bac…

I have attempted to climb babo in feb, but have been shut down because of snow and ice storms.

The elephant trunk in Mendoza canyon, looks like a good one. Or leviathan dome,

Thanks Robin, I have been checking that book out online, but I appreciate the info.

I am planning to go down the Organs the week before Christmas and am trying to select some 5.8 and easier routes that are multi-pitch and get some sun. Any recommendations. If I were to 0hiking in and camping for a couple of days, would that change any of the recommendations?

Dan Carter wrote:Check out the Organ Mountains in Southern New Mexico. They are next to Las Cruces. The approaches can be 2-8 hours. Sometimes longer. This depends on where you go and how much bushwacking you want to tackle. There are several opportunities to camp for several days in the the mountains and climb as epically as you desire. The Organs have a very backcountry feel. It is very unlikely you will see anyone else. Rabbit Ears Canyon has a lot of climbs and camping spots. The middle peaks are the most remote but could probably camp near them as well. The sugarloaf isn't as long of a hike but has some nice long routes. The east side of the organ needle has some long approaches and routes. The Organs are a place one could probably get a FA as well. Still plenty of room for new routes throughout the range.

I did the hike into Sugarloaf from the Aguirre Springs side in just under 2-hours if I remember, but I was with locals and they knew the trail, which was not always obvious. We did a route called "Left Eyebrow" it was about 9 or 10 pitches to the top. We did a short rap or two off the back, some scrambling to get to our packs and then hiked out under a huge full moon. We started hiking at 6:00 in the morning, and were back at the car around 9:00. Long, but fun day. Camping would have been better, if only to make the experience last longer.

Look for info on some of the more sunny routes and pay attention to where the best access is from. For example a lot of the climbs are better reached via the Top Hut mine road/trail off of Baylor Canyon Road and not the Aguirre Springs area. I'm not a local, I just love the area.

Sugarloaf
Organ Range Map

Greg wrote:If memory serves, Sugarloaf is at like 8000 feet elevation once you get up there, and the thing is a notorious wind tunnel as well, sitting in a pass at the top of the range like it does. Probably not the best gig in mid-December. YMMV.

And if my memory serves me correct...you'd be right. The winds were mentioned as a concern more than once on the approach. I guess we lucked out because we did the climb in late January, and it was cold as hell, but perfectly still.

I absolutely love that whole area, but if you do go, there are probably better options at that time of year.

Luckily for me I live in Albuquerque, so if weather dictates it looks like there are some sport, one pitch trad routes down low.

Bill

Morning sun (I'd think till late afternoon) on CheckerBoard, CrossTrainer very fun bolted face climb. Odd belays (think I heard some of them have been cleaned up) but a fun route.

Also did Knights Move there and it was a stellar and fun trad line.

Rabbit Ears canyon has some 5.8 ish stuff and camping at the mouth of the canyon. It is in the shade though. The trail to Southern Comfort wall is off of Topp hut road as well. It has a lot of one and two pitch stuff which is fun. There is camping along the gravel road up to the trail heads. Also some camping at the mouth of rabbit ears canyon.

One can hike up to the top of the Organ needle without ropes. It takes all day and a little bit of route finding. There is camping off of Modoc Mine road. This is a good approach for the needle and also the way to the tooth and the wedge. Also sunny routes. There is a good camping spot near the top of Modoc Mine road. One needs a high clearance vehicle to get a good ways up the road and then you have to hike. Parking at the gate is recommended unless you have a serious 4x4 and can drive it well. The road gets rough past the gate.

One can hike up and camp near the sugarloaf in about an hour. Follow the directions on here for beta. The trail was pretty well distinguishable until near the base of the climb. Then you can bushwack your way over to the base. It is an all day affair. With wind and cold temps it would probably be miserable.