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Favorite 5.9 trad routes

John Lewis Ziegler · · Westminster, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 85

Mithral Dihedral, Mt. Russel

colin tucker · · Monticello, UT · Joined May 2007 · Points: 35

Regular Route- Fairview Dome
Ghiradelli- Mt. Prindle AK
Yellow Spur- Eldo
Commitment- Yosemite
Minor Dihedral- Wind Rivers
Kor-Ingalls- Castleton

davedad · · Carbondale, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 0

Great suggestions. The tick list keeps getting longer. It seems hard to beat Yosemite as the homeland of the classic 5.9 trad route but would love to hear other suggestions of both more routes and destinations with a concentration of classic routes- a place where somebody could tick multiple "favorite 5.9 trad routes" in one trip.

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240

I know it has to be 4 pitches or longer, but you've got to represent the Gunks. MF and Bonnie's Roof are my favorites at that grade.

sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,360
The Larry wrote:Outerspace- Snow Creek Canyon, Levenworth, Wa Lexington Tower- Washington Pass. Wa
Good choices. I'd add NW Corner of NEWS to that list.
Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,062

Traveler Buttress, Lover's Leap

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

The Undone Book
The Center Thumb
The Great Escape
The Triple OverHangs
The Lowe Route
The Vertical Smile

All in the Lone Peak Cirque area of the Wasatch, UT.

Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

Cow's are People Too - North Slabs of Greyrock, Poudre Canyon,Colorado.

Direct S. Ridge on Notchtop, RMNP.

Kirk Miller · · Catalina, AZ and Ilwaco, WA · Joined May 2003 · Points: 1,824

Indecent Exposure, Hueco Tanks
Center Route, Cynical Pinnacle

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
colin tuck wrote:Kor-Ingalls- Castleton
+1
daniel c · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 40

West Crack (Daff Dome - Tuolumne Meadows)

and bump to Central Pillar of Frenzy (Middle Cathedral Rock - Yosemite Valley)

Kat A · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 510
slim wrote:not sure how in the hell the steck salathe hasn't been mentioned yet.
Steck-Salathe 5.9?!? Yikes, most people would disagree with that. (I can vouch for that bruised leg photo.)

I agree with others about Center Route - a great 5.9.
Doug Kinsman · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0

Regular Route on Fairview Dome Tuolumne
Blown Away on DAFF Dome Tuolumne
On the Lamb on Lamb Dome Tuolumne
Mainliner on Sundance Buttress Lumpy Ridge
Phobos (3 pitches) on Phobos/Deimos Cliff
Beulah's Book to Arch Enemy to Solar Slab
(1500' of climbing)Las Vegas Oak Creek pullout
Recombeast, Cathedral Ledge New Hampshire
Regular Route of Higher Cathedral Spire in Yosemite
a lot more I am not thinking of...

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

hmm steck salathe 5.10... i guess some people are calling the narrows pitch (i think) 10b these days, but i had thought the traditional grade was 5.9. maybe substitute NEB on HCR.

davedad · · Carbondale, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 0

On a gray day would love to kickstart this thread again. I am dreaming of long routes for the spring, summer, and fall. Love the suggestions- definitely some sore bodies acquired in ticking some of these classic 5.9 trads (Ouch to the Steck Salathe photo) It sure seems like a lot of these routes have the mandatory wide section to underscore their trad nature. Any other suggestions out there? I know there are some under the radar classics awaiting a champion.

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255

Pine Tree Crack at the Hillbilly Hollow in Coloma, Wisconsin
I love this climb, starts out as a techy face climb and turns into a solid hand crack. Super scary beginning, I didn't really get gear until after the crux 15 feet up or so.

Right Crack of Hydroponics at Petenwell bluff in Necedah, Wisconsin
First trad lead in the .9's, this climb just felt natural and smooth.

Bluebells at Tettegouche State Park in Tofte? Minnesota
The dihedral was probably the most fun I've had climbing a crack all year.

Oh, and you have to cut me some slack, I live in Wisconsin. Multi-pitch is something I dream about.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Sill to T-bolt traverse (Palisades, High Sierra)
N Buttress (Mt Goods, High Sierra)
Sweet Thin (Red Rocks)
Open Book (Tahquitz)
Kor-Ingalls (Castleton Tower)

Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 759

Half Dome? 5.9 about covers the "mandatory" free on the Regular Route, and boy is that a fun one.

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

How about:

-Absinthe Of Mallet, with the newer finish, Cochise Stronghold.
-Dr Rubos Wild Ride, Sedona. The Mace's lesser known but better little brother.
-Sun Ribbon Arete, High Sierra.
-Whodunnit, Tahquitz
-Igor Unchained, The (Ca) Needles. I know it is only 2-3 pitches, but still.

Randall Chapman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,532

Fishhook Arête, Mt Russell
Otto’s Route, Independents Monument, Colorado National Monument

Most of the rest on my list were mentioned, like whodunit and open book.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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