The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Anyone want to get out Tuesday morning for some ice in Boulder Canyon? I have until around noon but can start at any time. Anyone know what is in up there?

John Maguire
PM or 508 320 1767

As of Friday afternoon there isn't really climbable ice in BoCan. It's forming pretty well at the upper falls area but the main flow is running water at a good clip still. The ice is all very unstable on the main flow. There are top ropeable mixed lines to the right of the main flow. Scramble around the right side and setup a top rope on whatever looks fun. There are at least 3 good variations to play around on (~m4ish) and there is some fat easy ice at the bottom of these lines.

Just to the left of the main falls there is a mixed line that's quite a bit harder. There is some ice on that but you can't really swing, just tap, tap, tap to get a pick placement. Be gentle. Further to the left there is ever harder mixed line (Master of Puppets). Getting to the anchor bolts would be a pretty scary scramble but you can build an anchor above the aquaduct with #1 and #2 camalots and rap in or top rope the line from there. There is no ice on this line but it's fun.

Stephan,

No. There aren't power lines incased in the ice. The main concern with allowing climbing on the ice has more to do with the close proximity to the wheel than any other concern. And since it is a historic and valuable landmark to Idaho Springs, the city want to be assured that no harm will come to it.

If climbers stay off of it that will reinforce the impression that the climbing community is comprised of responsible people that can take care of themselves. If we jump the gun on this on we'll never be allowed to climb on the ice.

Thanks for the heads up.

Anyone up for some mixed climbing in BoCan haha?

some ice porn for ya'll. Kevin Cooper on the Squid 11/27/10. I couldn't lead that thing in those conditions in a million years.

The Squid, 11/27/10.

Mark McConnell wrote:Hey by the way I found your jacket at the base... contact me with a description and a good reason why you left it and I'll get it back to you.

Lighten up Francis.

Wow way to go Kevin!!

As of 11/27 there is climbing at North Clear Creek Falls near Creede. It was fat in most places. There was some spray poking through at the base, and about 1/2 way up in the dead center. But the ice is lead-able on the WI4 on the left and the 2/3 if you stay to the right of the thin spot. Couple more cold days should solidify the thin spot. My party had a great day. Bolts are still open and not covered, making rapping into the climb super accessible. We even had a few visitors from the overlook cheering and waving about mid-afternoon.
Though I would caution the left side has some overhanging death-cicles, that we did not manage to knock down, and most of the surface ice was super aerated and not well consolidated. Though a bit of bashing and the ice beneath takes a screw nicely, and at the top the ice is fat and took 3 screws for a TR anchor on the far right, opposite the bolts.

D. Gavelis on lead right side of Clear Creek Falls.

Any ice on the Western Slope yet besides Mr. and Mrs. Mesa?

Redstone?

thanks

Climbed Snowblind on 11-27-10. Was still able to drive all the way to the campground, but this probably changed with the last snowstorm. This climb is aptly named!

South Mineral.

Middle pitch.

Middle pitch 2.

Has anyone climbed Esperanza in Silverplume?? Is it worth the effort to get to it??

Esperanza 11-28-10

coop wrote:Any ice on the Western Slope yet besides Mr. and Mrs. Mesa? Redstone? thanks

Hayes creek is in, Redstone Pillar is kinda there ( Bad Gear with some mixed climbing at the top) Rifle is trying hard Final curtain is down but looked thin Soul on ice was also well on its way but still needs some time.

Ryan N wrote:Has anyone climbed Esperanza in Silverplume?? Is it worth the effort to get to it??

not really, the best one is that 2 pitch g-town flow; if it were just in another area of 70. That i-springs flow is crap, too; but since it's viewed as some sort of forbidden fruit.

Some Rifle ice beta from yesterday.

joekindkid.com/

The 5th picture is best.

Both Grizzly and Glenwood Falls have ice... didnt trek up there, but from 70 it looks thin but on its way.

coop wrote:Any ice on the Western Slope yet besides Mr. and Mrs. Mesa? Redstone? thanks

Hey Coop,
Check out some ice near the black canyon if you are willing to travel that far. We climbed blue mesa smear on november 30th.

What's Vail doing these days? I may be spending the weekend in the area and would love to snag some good plastic (easy!), ice while up there.

T-Bob

As of Wednesdayd, Hidden Falls (RMNP) was really wet at the top. Bring a hardshell and prepare to solo the top as screws were pretty worthless. Should be better once it gets cold again for a bit.

coop wrote:Any ice on the Western Slope yet besides Mr. and Mrs. Mesa? Redstone? thanks

I took a driving/walking tour of the Redstone area last Sunday (11/28). This my first winter in the area, so I don't know the typical conditions people climb things in, but I'd add to what Josh8384 wrote . . .

Avocado Gully: Second two pitches look climbable but fairly thin.

South of the Narrows: I know there's a couple of climbs just south of the Narrows sport climbing area. I think I saw the car of an ice climber of my acquaintance there. I don't know if they were scouting or climbing.

A bunch of ice forming in the vicinity of Redstone Slabs. I couldn't climb it, but I'm not a very adventurous climber.

Hayes Creek Falls is in. Soloed about 20 - 30 ft of really easy ice to try out my new crampons.

Marble Falls - Looks fat from the main road, by my little RWD truck wasn't going any further in the snow. Might not look as good up close.

Went for a skin up the road in Eureka took some photos. Things look real good. very little snow so some otherwise boring WI2-3 would be a fun romp. I also checked out horse tail and the gravity's Rainbow area, not so good. There are a bunch of photos so i posted them on picasa. Here is the link: conditions photos