Kain Route Map <br> contour interval : 100 feet <br> <br> Green - Kain Route <br> Blue - Northeast Ridge

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia-Shushwap > Bugaboos > Bugaboo Spire > Kain Route (S Ridge) (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Kain Route Map<br>
contour interval : 100 feet<br>
<br>
Green - Kain Route<br>
Blue - Northeast Ridge

ID 106973003 ·

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Easy scrambling low on the Kain Route. July 1974. Bob Dodds & Wendy Weiss.

David deciding the Knife Edge on the Kain Route.

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Ken Trout

Nov 28, 2010

“Kain Route Map
contour interval : 100 feet

Green - Kain Route
Blue - Northeast Ridge”

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Nearby Photos

Picture of the Kain Route taken from Pigeon Spire.

Route Overlay Descent from Bugaboo Spire.

Conrad Kain, alpine superhero.

Brennen on the summit

Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire<br>
Photo by MP conributor Kevin Craig<br>
<br>
White dots - Kain Route (south ridge)<br>
Red dots - Rappel at Great Gendarme<br>
<br>
In the distance, Vowell Glacier and Mount Conrad (Kain).

From the base of the final belayed pitch

Approaching the gendarme on the Kain route. Climber is in the lower right of the photo. The summit of Bugaboo is in the upper left of the photo.

More vistas from the scrambling part of the route (taken on descent) Tony Tennessee and Fred Batliner.

View from the South Summit

Climbers on the upper Kain Route.

Crux pitch on the Kain route,

The hordes waiting to rappel (left) and climb (right) The Gendarme - looking down from near summit.

Applebee Camp Info

Looking over at Snowpatch Spire from the summit of Bugaboo Spire.

A look at the easy climbing to the south summit.

Vista on the lower part of the route.

The 4th class intermediate ridge.

Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col. Small crevasses and bergshrunds. Generally climbed unroped.

Paul Hudak at the crux

Start of the roped climbing

Wearing the latest in safety headgear, M-J Cross cleans the last piece of pro on the Gendarme pitch (1982)

The added hike from the Kain hut to Applebee

The scrambling up to the roped pitches.

Applebee Camp

descending the snow patch bugaboo col, there are bolted anchors (4) that get you down the steep section. I used a 60 m rope without an issue. I have circled two anchors

descending the snow patch bugaboo col, there are bolted anchors (4) that get you down the steep section. I used a 60 m rope without an issue. here is one station:

Beware that this crack on the gendarme pitch might swallow your knee and refuse to give it back.

Crossing the Gendarme of the Kain Route

Easy scrambling low on the Kain Route. July 1974. Bob Dodds & Wendy Weiss.

Kain Route Map<br>
contour interval : 100 feet<br>
<br>
Green - Kain Route<br>
Blue - Northeast Ridge

David deciding the Knife Edge on the Kain Route.

Early season climb up Bugaboo!

Looking down from just below the Gendarme pitch.

Upper Route Beta

On the descent, traversing the pitch below the gendarme.

A key, inobvious rap station on the descent.

Some of the lower roped pitches

Luke Vannini amongst the abyss of stunning glaciers

Route Overview

Bolted belay at the base of the Gendarme pitch.

Upper section of Kain route showing the Gendarme (led in hob-nailed boots in 1916!) and the approximate route to summit

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