surfing and wave sailing

trundlebum,
THAT is a great TR! What a good time you all had!
I think would fit into that crew like a piece of the puzzle.
Dude I scored some phat and glassy right and left handers at Lowers till dark yesterday today sounds promising as well.
Nori's has produced some nice sunset seshes this past week small lineup with lots of waves for all!

WooooHoooo Olaf...
I really like your painting, it speaks gazillions.

Hey BTW, did you see on my FB page (or did I mention here) ?...

I scored a Hobie 16, dual trapeze, 2 suits of sails, trailer, beach roller launcher and a beater sail(long)board.

All the boat needs is Mian and Jib sheets, a cpl trap harnesses and a lot of TLC.

I scored it at auction for $100.00 :)

trundlebum,
That cat is going to project you into another fun level.
Flying the hull,right on the edge of disaster! WOW!
Were talking way more fun than lake windsurfing unless of coarse it's blowing nuclear(3.5-4.0 weather on a little gorge 60 ltr.or so board)

The summer desert beach scene around Vegas has got to off the chart!

I surfed double over head waves at Nori's yesterday. It was NOT my best sesh of this last swell. With the full moon,the tide was huge and the wave was too fat. I just couldn't paddle into them from the safety of the shoulder zone just off the peak. I tried sitting deeper but I couldn't find the sweet spot so just got clobbered time after time. So many things have to line up in order to get a great sesh and they just weren't.
On the other hand it was really cool to be out agresivly charging waves that size even if I wasn't ripping the them apart like I did at Kanaha the day before.
I went out early this morning to redeme my self but conditions had deterated and wind was already on it.
It looks as though we're going into another wave sailing episode starting this afternoon and it looks like it will be game on for a while!

After surfing windless and often large waves every day this past week the wind came back two days ago and delivered one of the most delightful wave sailing seshs of the season.

It was one of those seshes that put a big smile on every face on our beach.

I’m not talking epic in any way other than steady perfection 4.7m wind and plenty of head to logo high waves. There were a few nearly mast high waves later in the day. Most of the waves that day had good size and shape but very little power in them. Other than the late day makers that came through that is.

Yesterday’s sesh proved to be a different ball game. Most of the sets were producing waves in the mast high and better range. I must admit that I took my time launching in that I enjoy the later seshes after most of the sailors have tried out. Many of our core group sail at that time as well.

I chose a 4.7m sail with a 78ltr wave board instead of a 5.0m sail.

The wind had backed off the shore and I had to swim with my rig all the way out the channel and I then had a difficult time water starting in the turbulent area we call the "toilet bowl" due to the mixed up hydraulics caused by conflicting currents and a very shallow reef.

The 4.7m sail worked well but it was on the low end of the power range. It actually delivered plenty of power for me to place myself in a perfect position to catch an uncountable number of juicy mast high waves with very little penalty.

I did get worked pretty good a couple of times but that is to be expected when wave sailing in those conditions.

The weather was far less stable yesterday than the day before resulting in passing rain squalls that often nearly shut the wind down.They also produced some of the most brilliant rainbows.

I wish my limited powers of description would allow me to describe this dynamic setting to the level it deserves.

At one point I was a fair ways off shore. I was on my way back in and I was barely planing when two 7’-8’ dolphins decided to cruise along with me for a while.

The dolphins, rainbows, a dynamic Maui landscape, warm and clear water, just enough wind, magnificent waves, some good friends and ME! What a blessing!

The sub planning conditions made up wind progress difficult.

Every time I gained a little ground another nice wave would present its self and I would take it. This kept me down wind of the narrow channel that I had to navigate in order to make it back to the rocky launch site.

I made one attempt at coming in and made it through the impact zone but when I did the wind shut off and I fell in.

I had No wind in very confusing currents. All the while I was drifting away from any chance making my destination.
At this point I was still in a position to possibly swim in, but, it would be very close.

I didn’t like the odds so I decided to try to water start and sail back through the impact zone.
I hoped to gain a better angle on the approach to the narrow channel. Luckily I made it out through the waves during a pause in the sets.

This time I worked my way up wind to a point that I felt that I could make another run at it.

I was hoping for another lull in the wave action long enough to slip inside the impact zone.

Well, Lady Luck was not with me!

When I entered the impact zone a large wave came up on me from behind. It plowed over me from behind. I was violently swept up and I plunged free falling over the falls with my gear!

This must have been very entertaining to the peanut gallery that was assembled on the beach.

Before I recovered from the beating that the last wave dealt me, I had to take the next two equally sized waves of the set on the head!

After catching my breath I swam over to retrieve gear. I was once again out of position for the channel.
This is not the first time that I have been in this situation and my course of action was clear.

I had to drift with the current around the rocky point and then swim with my stuff to the extreme back of the bay.

Once the point had been cleared it gets peaceful and there was time to reflect on the day, the rainbows, the dolphins, and BEER.
I knew that I was going to a friendlier place.

I made good progress up until I about 150 meters from my chosen destination.

The undertow at this point was inhibiting my progress getting to my chosen landing spot.

I saw my friend Dean on the beach and he started swam out to me. With his help we were able to break the lock that the current had on me.

Dean is a strong swimmer and he was also fairly fresh so I just swam along as he swam with my rig.
The rocky landing was sketchy but all went well with no injury to body or gear.
I’m sure that I wasn’t the only sailor that had a bit of an epic getting back to the beach last night.

Many Mahalos to Dean of Maui! ALOHA!!

East coast was going off for a while.

Jasonn, That's what I'm talkin about!

Olaf, thanks for starting such a great thread. I have been looking at it for a while, and figured I could upload some shots and add some info. I went to the Gunks a few days ago and climbed a few classics. When I got back to Long Island, I surfed at Democrat Point untill it was dark. The surf was big and steep; although, there were a lot of closeouts. I had a few good rides though. I might go out tomorrow, but let me wait for my suit to dry first. Its cold this time of year, putting on a wet wetsuit is... Well, worth it sometimes, but for the most part, somthing I dont do. Rite on guys keep surfing and keep climbing. Here are a few more shots from a few weks ago.

Jasonn, thanks for posting the great images and the note!
All I can say is RIGHT ON DUDE!

I can relate to the cold wet, wetsuit issue it sucks putting on wet rubber.
I lived on the Oregon Coast before I moved to Maui. We used 5/4/3s with attached hoods year around. Seems like my wetsuit never got really dry.

I am hoping to see more of the folks that are stopping by this little thread from time to time sharing their surf/water sport related knowledge thoughts and images.

We have over 13000 views since I first posted. We have great crew of regular and occasional posters.

I have been a climber and surfer/ wave sailor most of my life. I have found that the average climber is way more fascinated with and knowledgeable of surfing than the average surfer is about climbing. Go figure?

We have been going through a delightful wave sailing episode here on the north shore. We wind has been fluky and many of the windsurfers have been complaining about it, but, the way I see it, anything that will put you in position to drop in on SO MANY great waves in a single afternoon sesh is a good thing. I have used the same sail and board combo every day since the wind came back.

Olaf, the Oregon Coast must have been sick. My suit was not dry, but I ended up surfing in it anyway. I also use a 5/4/3 all winter, just bought some new lobster claws yesterday to. Yea, most surfers these days dont know a thing about climbing. But like you said, a lot of climbers are knowledgeable about surfing, good thing to.

Maui must be amazing. Dropping in on a a lot of waves is a good thing. I dont know much about wave sailing but, it sounds like I should look into it. Last night I watched Step Into Liquid and a few other surf films to keep the stoke high. I saw some amazing footage of Teahupoo, Pipe, and Jaws. I going to see if I could do a semester out there. I want to get on it! For now, Im headed back to school in the Adirondacks. There is no surfing, but lots of paddling, so Ill still get to make big drops.

Have you read Yvon Chouinard's book, Let My People Go Surfing?

Jasonn,
I haven't read his book but Y.C. is one of my all time hero's!
Back in another life I shared belays with him in Yosemite.
Keep the stoke! Check in often,K?

I only have a few minutes to jump in....

Woohooo Jasonn:

Welcome to Olaf's thread.
I love this thread, especially since I am basically land locked right now.

Keep'm coming guys ;)

Giampaolo Cammarota posted this in his blog yesterday,
"The video below is made by clips taken in the morning session.
Then in the late afternoon, I went out again on my SUP (too tired to lay down paddle) and stayed out till dark thanks to an amazing full moon that rose just by sunset time.
Later on the same day, I gathered with some friends and we played some music with guitars and ukuleles.
I got intrigued by a chord progression of a song called "One night stand" and, not knowing at all the original, I played those four chords with my own rhythm, strumming and I even improvised some words.

My surfing, on a board that was snapped in two pieces and I put together all by myself, with a melody that I made and that I played and sang in a video that I filmed and edited... almost everything I can do is in this video
All I hope is that you guys can get some of my stoke out of it!" youtube.com/watch?v=0kqjt1Q…

I got a bunch of great waves this afternoon !

I'm in a bar having morning coffee.
Watching 'Fuel TV'
Seems to be a comp. at Waimea.

Funny how mid sized Waimea does not look so ominous these days.

I could tell it was a 'Paddle in' surf comp imediately.
You just don't see the old's cool 'Rhino Chasers' like those very often these days. It was obvious from the first competitor's drop that this was not tow in surfing.

Ahhhh the many variations of 'The Sport of Kings' :)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Ohh yeah Olaf from one of your up thread posts:
"The sub planning conditions made up wind progress difficult. "

Years ago we used to like to use a Fred Hayward quote:

"What is the opposite of planning?

Complaining" ! ! !

I woke this morning to a wonderful sight!
From my lanai I could see that all the major north shore wave brakes were working with what looks like all channels open!
The wind forecast is east at 18 to 24 knots!
Surf forecast is for a ground swell of N/E @ 5’Hawaiiaan (10’face) @ 10 seconds
This mixed with an easterly wind swell wrap = GAME ON!

Man, I need a plane ticket

I think the next Eiger Sanction should have surfing

Olaf, thats great! There were semi clean conditions with lots of sun here on Long Island. I had about five great rides but had to back off a few closeouts. I was using a friends 6.0 JC, a new ride to me, and in getting used to the board, and the epoxy, on my first wave I ate it hard! I hit bottom on a head high set wave. Although, learning to fall is important. Well, its cold, and getting colder, but I surf out of love, so im gonna keep surfing. Ill post some more pics soon. Keep the stoke high.

Olaf Mitchell wrote:I woke this morning to a wonderful sight! From my lanai I could see that all the major north shore wave brakes were working with what looks like all channels open! The wind forecast is east at 18 to 24 knots! Surf forecast is for a ground swell of N/E @ 5’Hawaiiaan (10’face) @ 10 seconds This mixed with an easterly wind swell wrap = GAME ON!

Just as I thought it was going to be, yesterdays sesh was Way Wild!
I arrived at the launch at about 2:00 p.
I sat on the log for a while and watched several of my friends negotiate some very extreme ocean conditions. Big guys were riding 4.2m sails with small boards.
I would often lose sight of sailors for a long time in that their rig was completely shadowed by the wave in front of them. I’m talking over mast high (15’+) white water.
I didn’t know if I wanted any part of those conditions but I wanted to sail. The last time I decided to go to another (perhaps safer) sailing spot it was very crowed and I regretted it, so I just sat and watched.
The wind got lighter at about 3:00p and more of my bro’s started showing up and rigging.
I started rigging my 4.4m as the wind dropped even more so I went back to my truck and got my 4.7m sail.
I am very pleased that I waited as long as I did. I was rigged perfectly for the wind conditions.
Most of the guys had to swim out a ways into the rocky channel in order to get a water start to get out.
I caught a lucky puff and stepped on to my board and sailed right out to the impact zone.
I was closed out and deigned access on my initial attempt to penetrate the impact zone so I just sat in the water and kept my rig in water start position as I took several waves head on. Or should I say on the head.
Eventually the set subsided and I had a clear path outside the impact zone to open ocean.
My strategy was to sail conservatively and choose my waves carefully.
The direction of this vigorous swell is from the north east. They have been traveling uninhibited across the open ocean for many miles all the while growing exponentially larger as they roll along on a collision course for the North Shore of Maui.
It was just amazing to be sailing in swells that were easily the size of a house before hitting the reef and doubling their size and power.
I let many of the larger waves go by. The fourth wave of the sets was typically (but not always) smaller and less intimidating.
I rode several of the bigger waves also but I chose to kick out early before they closed out. I was cautious not to be caught inside and get bombarded by the monstrous walls of foam
The wind held up well enough and the sailing was good until nearly dark. Finally I was in position to make a run for the narrow channel. I was able to sail right up to the rocky beach without having to swim against the powerful currents that rip through the rocks near the launch.
Everyone that had sailed was charged with adrenaline. They all had a story of how they narrowly escaped disaster.
Expeditions were launched to look for missing sailors that had washed in down the coast due to any number of mishaps during their sesh.
With everyone accounted for I drove home with visions of mountainous waves!

Olaf Mitchell wrote:Giampaolo Cammarota posted this in his blog yesterday, "The video below is made by clips taken in the morning session. Then in the late afternoon, I went out again on my SUP (too tired to lay down paddle) and stayed out till dark thanks to an amazing full moon that rose just by sunset time. Later on the same day, I gathered with some friends and we played some music with guitars and ukuleles. I got intrigued by a chord progression of a song called "One night stand" and, not knowing at all the original, I played those four chords with my own rhythm, strumming and I even improvised some words. My surfing, on a board that was snapped in two pieces and I put together all by myself, with a melody that I made and that I played and sang in a video that I filmed and edited... almost everything I can do is in this video All I hope is that you guys can get some of my stoke out of it!" youtube.com/watch?v=0kqjt1Q…