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Best boulder problems in the U.S.

Original Post
seth hamel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 510

Wondering what people think are the best boulder problems located in the United States. Please only post about problems that you have been on. Include the climbing area please.

Here are a few from me:

The wind below - Joe's valley
Checkerboard - Bishop
Shivers - Little Cottonwood Canyon

Kevin R · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 290

A few moderate Hueco classics...

See Spot Run V6 - Good climbing, tall enough to be spicy, and it's got a good landing.

Melon Patch V0 - Maybe loses some points due to the easiness of climbing, but it's definately one of the funnest problems in the US.

Dragon Fly V5 - The start's polished as hell...so maybe not "the best" but still really good. My favorite V5 anyway.

Dentugrip V5 - Micro crimps on a slab...I know it sounds horrible, but it's a great problem that doesn't get done as often as it should.

DFrench · · Cape Ann · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 465

WIthout question, Little Devil

Last time I was there I had to wait my turn because a bunch of Euros were swarming all over this problem. It's basically the next MIdnight Lightning.

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

Gotta go with Hueco: Dragon Fly for sure, Three Star Arete, Ghetto Simulator too.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880
DFrench wrote:WIthout question, Little Devil Last time I was there I had to wait my turn because a bunch of Euros were swarming all over this problem. It's basically the next MIdnight Lightning.
The proof of this problems' status comes if you follow Destinations/Colorado, and scroll down to the area classics list, look at what's #1
BackCountry Sortor · · Ogden, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 400

Golden - Triassic

smassey · · CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

Biggest Tits in Country Music - Vedauwoo. Big Bob's Big Wedge - Jtree. Minturn Mile - Red Cliff, CO. Spin To Win, Vedauwoo. The tan with red V5 at the Red Rock Climbing Center, RIP. Frankenstein, Wild Iris.

Jason Lantz · · Centennial, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 170

specter, bishop
illustrious buddah, gunks
most things at hueco
many things in central PA. standard american accent.
some things around moab...chaos. circus trick right...

Lamberto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 0

Ten of my favorites:

White Rastafarian, J-Tree
Melon Patch, Hueco
The Sword, Leavenworth
WAS, Leavenworth
Monkey Bar Direct, Red Rocks
Yabo Roof, Castle Rocks
Scary Monsters, Joe's
Kelly's Arete, Joe's
Ride the Lightning, Pawtuckaway
Executioner, Lincoln Woods

J.B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 150

If I really wanted to stir it up I could say to stop bouldering and go real climbing...and that bouldering is for people that can't climb. But I wont say that...

J.B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 150

Or better yet, I could say that those who can't do, climb, and those that can't climb, boulder.... I'm done now...

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Mt Evans Wilderness

Peter Franzen · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,730

I nominate Evilution as the best boulder problem without a (reasonable, sane) topout.

The Ruckus (aka Seven Spanish Angels), Strength in Numbers (Original SIN), and almost everything in Ibex also top my list.

Peter Franzen · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,730

And some moderation:

JJ: Cool it. We don't particularly care for inane trolling here, so if you want to incite a thread full of bouldering vs. trad climbing arguments I suggest you visit a forum that tolerates it.

Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625
Lamberto wrote:White Rastafarian
yep
Lucas P · · Asheville, NC · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,010

The Sword -Leavenworth
High Plains Drifter -Bishop
Wills a Fire -Joes
Pimpsqueak -Leavenworth
Anorexic -Priest Draw
Butterscotch - Tramway
Evilution and 7 Spanish Angels -Bishop
Tastes like Burning -Mt. Baldy
Jedi Mind Tricks - Bishop

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

Some photos would make this thread better....

Deception (V7) at Little Rock City, TN:





Super Mario (V5):



The Wave (V6):


Golden Harvest (V5?) at Rocktown:


The Scoop (V2):


Tunnel Vision (V6) (He's not on Tunnel Vision, it's the one right of him, but this is the best photo I could find:


Police Brutality (V4):
Dave-o Friedman · · Fort Collins · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 5

Hagan's Wall, wicked classic V5, Flagstaff Mountain Boulder Colorado

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
Red wrote: yep
Agreed. Took a while for someone to mention that. Others:

Midnight Lightning
Planet X
Slashface
Pretty much anything on Grandpa or Grandma Peabody
J.B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 150
Peter Franzen wrote:And some moderation: JJ: Cool it. We don't particularly care for inane trolling here, so if you want to incite a thread full of bouldering vs. trad climbing arguments I suggest you visit a forum that tolerates it.
If I wanted to troll fo realz I wouldn't have made it so obvious...GAWD!!
Choss Boss · · Barrre, VT · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 25
Zach Wahrer wrote:"Nobody Here Gets Out Alive" (V2) - Hueco Tanks
+1 For sure. It is most definately the coolest V2 I have ever done :)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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