Question about mountaineering boots

My incredibly generous buddy hooked me up with quite a bit of gear when I moved out to Colorado. You know, normal stuff like carabiners, a #5 camalot, oh, and a portaledge.

He also gave me a pair of Scarpa mountaineering boots and step in crampons. I believe the boots are either the Inverno or Vega model (it says both on the box, and everything else is written in Italian). Also, from what he told me (and from the fact they're pink and turquoise) I think these boots are from the late eighties/ early nineties. I put some photos on the bottom of this post so maybe someone can help me figure it out.

I wore the boots on the Notch a couple summers ago (in July- the snow in the Notch was perfect, and the approach trail was obviously snow free). They were a bit cumbersome to hike in, but they performed really well for the snow/ ice sections. The only problem was that the plastic tongue of the boot bumped up against my shin on every step, and by the end of the day it felt like someone was hitting my shins with a ball-peen hammer. I ended up hiking the last few miles out in the liners and carrying the plastic shells, because I was afraid of getting a stress fracture. I literally couldn't hike in them like that again.

I'm completely new to mountaineering, so forgive me if I ask any stupid questions. Is that standard for breaking in new boots (we hiked ~12 miles and I'd never even put these babies on before)? Do I possibly need new liners? Or are these boots just designed for more technical climbing situations, and less for plain old hiking?

One more important piece of information I should probably mention- the box says the boot size is 9 1/2. I wear a size 12 street shoe. But, honestly, the boots fit me perfectly. I have to take the liners out, put the liners on, and then put the plastic shell over the liners to get them on, but really, they're snug without being tight. Considering I can't even get my foot in a size 9 1/2 street shoe, I have trouble believing the size is accurate. Plus, I hiked the 5 or so miles to the base of Lambs Slide in them no problem.

I'm eager to do a bit of snow climbing and mountaineering in RMNP this season. Are these just the wrong type of boots or wrong size for me? Also, is there anyway I can snap these boots into AT bindings for telemark/ downhill skiing? If I do need different boots for my mountaineering plans, how much do you think I could sell these for?

Thanks in advance!

The dreaded shin bang; en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shin-… It just hurts horribly!

I got shin bang climbing Mount Rainier in Koflach plastic boots. Since then, I had custom-fitted Intuition liners (awesome) installed and I have climbed a lot more so I am not sure if the liners did the trick or perhaps my calf muscles toughened up.

Now I use La Sportiva Nepal Evo boots without a hint of shin bang, but MSRP is about $475. I was lucky to find some salesperson's samples at half price.

Shop around, and you should be able to find a ski boot fitter to put climbing Intution liners in your Scarpas for around $150, or go all out and buy some of the new leather mountaineering boots.

tongmengjia wrote:My incredibly generous buddy hooked me up with quite a bit of gear when I moved out to Colorado. You know, normal stuff like carabiners, a #5 camalot, oh, and a portaledge. He also gave me a pair of Scarpa mountaineering boots and step in crampons. I believe the boots are either the Inverno or Vega model (it says both on the box, and everything else is written in Italian). Also, from what he told me (and from the fact they're pink and turquoise) I think these boots are from the late eighties/ early nineties. I put some photos on the bottom of this post so maybe someone can help me figure it out.

I think they are Inverno. My buddy has the same color boots.

tongmengjia wrote:I wore the boots on the Notch a couple summers ago (in July- the snow in the Notch was perfect, and the approach trail was obviously snow free). They were a bit cumbersome to hike in, but they performed really well for the snow/ ice sections. The only problem was that the plastic tongue of the boot bumped up against my shin on every step, and by the end of the day it felt like someone was hitting my shins with a ball-peen hammer. I ended up hiking the last few miles out in the liners and carrying the plastic shells, because I was afraid of getting a stress fracture. I literally couldn't hike in them like that again. I'm completely new to mountaineering, so forgive me if I ask any stupid questions. Is that standard for breaking in new boots (we hiked ~12 miles and I'd never even put these babies on before)?

You don't really break in the boots itself. The plastic shell won't change shape much. The break in is really for the liner. On approach, you should not tie up the lace to your shin. That will alleviate some pressure.

tongmengjia wrote:Do I possibly need new liners?

Possibly, you need to take a look at the liners carefully. Compare to a new liner at the shop. You can replace them for custom liners as well.

tongmengjia wrote:Or are these boots just designed for more technical climbing situations, and less for plain old hiking? One more important piece of information I should probably mention- the box says the boot size is 9 1/2. I wear a size 12 street shoe. But, honestly, the boots fit me perfectly. I have to take the liners out, put the liners on, and then put the plastic shell over the liners to get them on, but really, they're snug without being tight. Considering I can't even get my foot in a size 9 1/2 street shoe, I have trouble believing the size is accurate. Plus, I hiked the 5 or so miles to the base of Lambs Slide in them no problem. I'm eager to do a bit of snow climbing and mountaineering in RMNP this season. Are these just the wrong type of boots or wrong size for me? Also, is there anyway I can snap these boots into AT bindings for telemark/ downhill skiing? If I do need different boots for my mountaineering plans, how much do you think I could sell these for? Thanks in advance!

The old Scarpa boots are always off comparing to street side. I can't say if yours is correct or not. Don't worry about what it says on the side, as long as they fit. Yes, you can climb technical stuff in them, back in the day, that's what people used. However, newer generation of boots are more nicer. Eventually, you'll upgrade, but they will do for now. Yes, you can ski in them with Silverretta binding, you'll probably have to compromise on some downhill ability. Depending on condition, your boots can probably sell for $100 - $150.

They are definately the Inverno's. They are from after the late '90's since the ones from the early 90's were hot pink/fushia (I know, I climbed with them). They are a really good boot for all around (even though I like my LS Trango's (I have both the Ice and the Extreme) for most things in the lower 48.

New liners may help. Check out a good ski boot fitter for help on this one.

Just as a note, the 'Vega' and 'Inverno' names are synonymous for this boot - 'Inverno' for the US market, 'Vega' for everywhere else.

tongmengjia wrote:I think these boots are from the late eighties/ early nineties. ... One more important piece of information I should probably mention- the box says the boot size is 9 1/2. ... Are these just the wrong type of boots or wrong size for me? Also, is there anyway I can snap these boots into AT bindings for telemark/ downhill skiing? If I do need different boots for my mountaineering plans, how much do you think I could sell these for?

I have that exact same style. Earlier models were more pinkish in the cuff, last model was all black. Discontinued in 2006 or so?

You're is probably late 90's vintage? Black Diamond imported them, and, a quick look at an old catalog or two would nail a date range. They were a standard plastic boot for a number of years.

As said above, Inverno in the US only, everywhere else they were the Vega.

The size on them might be UK, which would be a full size off US I think.

I have a friend who's talented enough to ski a plastic climbing book, in an AT set up (old Ramers) in tele mode, but, its pretty uncommon and I probably wouldn't suggest it. They snap into any AT binding that has a desent wire style front bail (Silvretta 300, 400, 404, etc).

If they fit well, then, they aren't the wrong size!

Shin bang sucks. Takes some time to adjust the boots. There really isn't a break in for the boots, per se, but, your feet.

Custom liners are sweet. Thermofit will make the boots lighter, warmer, and more comfy.

I've seen them sell as low as 30 bucks at a swap. They were one of the heavier boot shells out there (compared to Koflach, etc), but, durable as heck.

I hang onto mine for cold weather and to have a boot I know will work as a back up. I wear a size 12 and my boots are 12 and plenty roomy. Your liners must be really packed out?

Cheers.

I've got those same boots - I think I bought mine in 1996. 14 years and a lot of trips later they are still great. I used them in the Russian Caucasus this spring. They are way overkill for RMNP in the spring and summer and you'll be way happier in leathers, though they are nice for very cold winter days. They are a really good boot for the Andes, which is where I mostly use them.

Any plastic boot is going to blow for hiking. How you lace them, what socks you wear, and what pants/underwear/gaiter combination makes a difference for shin bang. My boots feel as comfortable as plastics can be when I take the time to dial them in right, and can feel like torture devices if I slap them on in a hurry with a bad sock combo. You should really spend some time dialing them in.

I've AT skied with my Invernos, silvretta bindings, and a soft short pair of Atomic TM9s. Not much fun - its basically survival skiing for me, and i'm not a bad skier. I will only do that for long relatively gentle approaches to ice climbing. Even then, unless the ice is hard for me i'd rather climbing in my AT boots than ski in my invernos.

Sounds like other boots might be better for what I'm planning to do, but since I got these for free, I think I'll stick with them. I'll see what I can about making them more comfortable and reducing shin-bang.

Thanks to everyone for the great information!

I have a pair similar to yours and they worked great when they were brand new on my month-long trip to BC in the Waddington Range. A few hot spots that I had to keep an eye on over the 5 days of bushwacking but otherwise they were fine.

I had only used the boots once so I figured if I bought new liners I would be good to go for one more trip. The shells were already well broken-in and the liners I didn't even have any more cause they were completely shot after my Waddington trip.

My options for the liners were a Scarpa High Altitude liner (overkill) or an Intuition liner. I went with the Intuition Denali liner which is what Whittaker Mountaineering (a store at the base of Mt. Rainier) recommended for replacements on Invernos. I got them molded and all that jazz, but ultimately it wasn't worth it.

I never experienced any of the shin-banging you speak of UNTIL last July on Baker. My objective was to brush up on a few things and go after the Coleman Headwall if conditions allowed. Of course conditions were prime. Had to call off the attempt cause after three days my shins were red, raw,bruised up, and walking was flat-out painful. I wonderd what front-pointing all day would have felt like.

My advice is to just ditch the boots (exactly what I did in a dumpster after the climb) and buy some new ones. It's a small price to pay for the summit of a mountain, or climbing up a tough route you have been training for. Sounds like you saved money on a lot of other gear so I would just buy new and break them in yourself.

I have heard nothing but good things about the Sportiva Spantik, pretty damn expensive ($700 retail) but ultimately its a small price to pay considering all the time and training you may put into one trip (especially if you plan on going a little higher). Or just buy a new pair of Invernos cause they ARE great boots. But to have gear cost you the summit knowig the boots are questionable now? I was asking myself this a lot last summer. It's just not worth it (I think I mentioned that one already. ha!)

Regarding shin bang with these boots: it helps to not lace up the last few eyelets while you walk. Then lace the tops while you are climbing.

I used a pair of Koflach Degre plastic boots (similar to the Scarpa Inverno) for a month and never got shin bang. To prevent it I just never laced the boots through the top two hooks. This worked fine for appoaches and I kept gaiters over the boot at all times to keep from tripping over my own feet. When you get to a more technical situation, e.g. kicking steps or climbing ice, then lace them all the way up.

...continued

Ok, so after my little rant I forgot that most of your climbing was in CO. I would go ahead and buy a pair of leather boots as others have suggested. I have a pair of Makalus which are still in great shape. You may want to look into the Scarpa SL M3 too.

Go to geartrade.com and you will find a lot of mountaineering boots for 1/2 price. Suggestion only if interested in new boots of course.