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Is static rope ok for top rope?

Original Post
Jason S. · · Durango, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 150

I went into my local climbing gym for the first time the other day and noticed that all of the top ropes were set up with static rope. they forced me to use a gri gri, saying something about the insurance policy. seems that with a distracted belayer and the mostly static nature of the gri gri catch things could get dangerous quick if someone was to take a fall with some slack out. i always thought static lines were for rope work only, and not for climbing on, am I wrong?

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

They're fine. I don't use one, but if you check John Long's book I think that's all he uses.

I just don't have a need for a static.

Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155

I think a lot of gyms use specific "gym" ropes...somewhere between dynamic and static, they offer more stretch than a typical static rope but less than a typical dynamic one.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

I would guess that smaller gyms less than 30 ft. might go for the static or 'gym' ropes due to climber hitting the floor on many low moves on stretchy ropes.

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

-10 for gyms that require gri-gris instead of trying to promote safety outside of the gym by putting in the effort to make sure its customers are using solid technique.

having said that, a static line will work fine for top rope. you'll definitely feel the hit of any slack if you fall but that should be negligible on TR.

England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270
Scott McMahon wrote:They're fine. I don't use one, but if you check John Long's book I think that's all he uses. I just don't have a need for a static.
No pig hauling eh.
Static is fine for TR's. Just don't give to much slack to the climber. No penalty slack.
Jason S. · · Durango, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 150

thanks for the info, good to know.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Gyms will do what gyms will do.

In terms of outside climbing, I've seen too many big guys take too-long, rope-stretching TR falls on dynamic rope to dis static rope for toproping. Sure, it's fun to work steep moves on TR using static, but IMO t becomes a legitimate safety issue when the dude's 200+ lb, and the crux is a mix of slippery slab and ankle-catching ledges at the start of an 80' pitch.

Pat1077 · · marietta GA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

the belayer will need to jump a little when you fall to allow cushioning, but they should do that anyway unless they are smaller than the climber

H BL · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 95

There was a gym back in Long Island that I used to go to in the early 90's that used static ropes. They were fine, but as most have said don't leave any slack, it's a little shocking to fall on static rope with slack. Hence, why we don't use them leading. (did I use the word "hence?) lol

Brent Butcher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 275

I would still suggest a dynamic rope to top rope on. Static ropes are not good for top roping.

jim-c · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 265

I have a new Singing Rock static rope they call low stretch/semi-static. Big difference between that and my Bluewater II. The Bluewater has no give where the Singing Rock has some nice elengation to it. Enough to prevent any jaring or sudden stop. Not anywhere near as much as a dynamic, but it makes falling far more confortable.

Will Copeland · · Driggs · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 25

It seems fine to me as long as there is minimal slack in the rope which means that the belayer is doing to right thing! We use them all the time for Outing Program trips because we can usually set them up from above. I know New England Ropes makes static lines specific for top roping. I think the answer is that it's fine as long as you don't load the rope like you would in a fall on dynamic rope.

My problem with gyms is Gri Gri use. They're more complex than an ATC and everyone should know how to use an ATC before they use a Gri Gri. Also, people tend to become less aware when using a Gri Gri. My buddy failed to mention he'd never used an ATC until we were roped up for his first outdoor climb. 5.9 onsight lead with a virgin belayer!! Talk about scary!

Thomas Willis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0

From: Rock Climbing by Craig Luebben
"Static ropes work fine for rappelling and top roping, but never lead on a static rope."

From: The Mountaineering Handbook by Craig Connally
"Static ropes ..... are designed for caving, rescue, rappelling, canyoneering, hauling, expeditionary fixed lines, top roping, gym climbing ..."

Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30
Brent Butcher wrote:I would still suggest a dynamic rope to top rope on. Static ropes are not good for top roping.
Your reasons, please...

I'll give you the classic liberal arts answer, "It all depends on the people and situations involved."

Slack with a static must be kept to a minimum. This doesn't mean taunt, but you don't want miles.

Dynamic stretches which is a hazard in some situations. Dynamic wears more quickly.

Like all gear, match the tool to the job.

But, in general, static is absolutely fine. Dynamic is more common because most people don't carry two ropes cragging.

Evan
Brent Butcher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 275
Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote: Your reasons, please... I'll give you the classic liberal arts answer, "It all depends on the people and situations involved." Slack with a static must be kept to a minimum. This doesn't mean taunt, but you don't want miles. Dynamic stretches which is a hazard in some situations. Dynamic wears more quickly. Like all gear, match the tool to the job. But, in general, static is absolutely fine. Dynamic is more common because most people don't carry two ropes cragging. Evan
Personally, I like having some play in my rope in case I fall. I am not a fan of the hard catch. I also do not keep my climbers "tight", I give them slack in the rope thus another reason I prefer dynamic ropes over static ropes.
Lou Hibbard · · Eagan, MN · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 410

I like static ropes for toproping in two local areas: Palisade Head and Shovel Point. One has a lot of loose rock and one has sharp rock and occasionally the routes wander. Both areas you tend to belay fron above - I always felt safer with a slingshot belay using a static rope. When you are at the base of a 180 ft 5.11d route with tough moves low and sharp or loose rock above it's more mentally relaxing to have a static rope. Even with a "tight" belay you don't feel the rope. If you've ever done a big wall and hauled you know how much tougher static lines are. It's amazing the abuse they will take.
I have heard reports of dynamic lines cut half way through at Shovel Point by a toprope swinging fall. A person also died there when a small rock got stuck in a Gri-gri and cut the rope. That probably wouldn't happen with a static line.
If you think about it - stresses are more concentrated when toproping then leading. In leading, in a fall the rope snakes through a variety of gear - usually each piece of gear will take some of the force. In toproping the rope often runs over one sharp edge sticking out - concentrating all the force in one area.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

I think you guys complaining about gyms having customers use GriGris are a little off base. Gyms are businesses, usually crowded and with lots of distractions going on. The customer's safety while at the gym is of paramount importance. That doesn't mean in their courses that they shouldn't explain the basic uses of other devices. Personally, even outside in most cases belayers should be using autolock devises to add an extra layer of safety in case they are injured themselves (say from falling rock). Most of the down sides people list for them are simply from not knowing how to use them properly. I use my Grigri for most routes and bring my ATC Guide along on multipich where I may need to rappel or for double ropes.

Some gym's overly strict adherence to the belayer anchoring rule can be counter to good belaying though. Part of their instruction should be when or not to anchor.

Will Copeland · · Driggs · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 25

Statics are fine, but you must keep them tight on the climber or else they can take a dynamic fall on the rope which it is not built for. I personally use my retired lead rope for top roping, but have used a static in the past. Statics can be great because you lose the stretch distance if you do fall.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Lou Hibbard wrote: A person also died there when a small rock got stuck in a Gri-gri and cut the rope.
Yikes. That's a new one. Just one more thing to worry about...
Derek M · · VA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 100
Will Copeland wrote: My problem with gyms is Gri Gri use. They're more complex than an ATC and everyone should know how to use an ATC before they use a Gri Gri. Also, people tend to become less aware when using a Gri Gri. My buddy failed to mention he'd never used an ATC until we were roped up for his first outdoor climb. 5.9 onsight lead with a virgin belayer!! Talk about scary!
I'm a little more concerned with the decision to climb with a belayer possessing such little experience than with the gym not allowing ATCs.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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